NEMOC Random BS Thread

hahaha, yeah I blew a hole in my sidewall in may, still havent replaced it. Been driving around on my crappy dunflops that came on the car three years ago, but need to get my 17's back on, hate the stockers. atleast with the 17's on it, it takes some of the attention away from the rust!
 
what a pain in the ass working on my mom's car. My car is easier by far.

They waited till the brakes are all fused together before having ME replace them...

Front brakes: caliper bracket bolts won't budge.

Rear brakes: caliper and brackets off, rotor won't budge. No screws or anything. Been hammering on it for awhile now, wtf.

Done for the night, time for ice cream.


After the hell that was my brake job I can offer a fair bit of advice. for the bracket bolts use PB blaster and if you still can't pull them put the wrench parallel to the ground and put a small block/pipe/tree stump(what I used) underneath the wrench and lower the car, pick it back up, reset the wrench, repeat (this will only work on one side though, passenger If I remember correctly). If the drivers side still wont budge make sure you have the car jacked very stably, get underneath it and pull (or use a hammer, or if you have good enough balance, stand on the wrench (I did all of the above)

In terms of the rotors PB blaster is also your friend, then screw an appropriately sized bolt into the rotor mounting holes. If the bolt strips then you have to move to the hammer. On the front wheels you can always turn the wheel and get more space to wind up.

A lot of people suggest using some heat, I used a torch but didn't find it to be all that successful and something (perhaps the pb blaster) on the back of the brake had to a tendency to catch fire.
 
After the hell that was my brake job I can offer a fair bit of advice. for the bracket bolts use PB blaster and if you still can't pull them put the wrench parallel to the ground and put a small block/pipe/tree stump(what I used) underneath the wrench and lower the car, pick it back up, reset the wrench, repeat (this will only work on one side though, passenger If I remember correctly). If the drivers side still wont budge make sure you have the car jacked very stably, get underneath it and pull (or use a hammer, or if you have good enough balance, stand on the wrench (I did all of the above)

In terms of the rotors PB blaster is also your friend, then screw an appropriately sized bolt into the rotor mounting holes. If the bolt strips then you have to move to the hammer. On the front wheels you can always turn the wheel and get more space to wind up.

A lot of people suggest using some heat, I used a torch but didn't find it to be all that successful and something (perhaps the pb blaster) on the back of the brake had to a tendency to catch fire.

That'll only work on the pass. side, and yeah, all four wheel are up on stands.

There's also no mounting holes for the rotors on this car.

Gonna suck it up and try again...couldn't move my arm when I got up, uhg.
 
FINALLY.

34499_507240210475_108400085_30155774_4678680_n.jpg


now...the bolts.
 
Ignition coil repaired.

$138 cost to repair (all labor). The dealer decided to charge 1.5 hrs, with a discount, even though it took the tech only an hour to do the work. However, I'll give them that they had some parts laying around, so I didn't need to pay for parts.

Tech had a harness laying around from a CX-7 with identical coil connectors, which was part-eaten by a rodent (on the other end). So he snipped off the connector and soldered on the CX-7 one. I watched the soldering job, was very clean and nice, I think that repair will hold up forever. Heatshrink wrapped each solder job, ziptied lightly out of the way. Other stock connectors will probably fail before this one does.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/uksi/4795799299/" title="Repaired ignition coil connector by ilp, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4795799299_7223177a11_b.jpg" width="1024" height="765" alt="Repaired ignition coil connector" /></a>
 
Haha you didn't have the e-brake pulled did you?

no, it's a floor ebrake anyway...no fun.

3/4 wheels are done, one more, then brake (break) for lunch and BEER.

EDIT: Brakes are done, YAY! After food...oil change and taking it for a drive.
 
Last edited:
Damn your opposite Friday off!

(evil) but next Friday when you are off my ass will be in the office. Have fun at the show!

Ignition coil repaired.

$138 cost to repair (all labor). The dealer decided to charge 1.5 hrs, with a discount, even though it took the tech only an hour to do the work. However, I'll give them that they had some parts laying around, so I didn't need to pay for parts.

Tech had a harness laying around from a CX-7 with identical coil connectors, which was part-eaten by a rodent (on the other end). So he snipped off the connector and soldered on the CX-7 one. I watched the soldering job, was very clean and nice, I think that repair will hold up forever. Heatshrink wrapped each solder job, ziptied lightly out of the way. Other stock connectors will probably fail before this one does.

Looks clean Oleg and good to hear you got it fixed and got to keep not only the arm but the leg!

no, it's a floor ebrake anyway...no fun.

3/4 wheels are done, one more, then brake (break) for lunch and BEER.

EDIT: Brakes are done, YAY! After food...oil change and taking it for a drive.

Woot! Way to go Ash!
 
brakes done, oil change done, wipers replaced, dog returned.

35167_507241847195_108400085_30155800_7016221_n.jpg


my dogs were very confused when I brought this guy inside...
 
Depends on your DMV really. I know some states, FL in particular, are cracking down the plates of that sort. >=/
 
The MS6 is for sale. If you're interested or anyone you know who may be interested, let me know. 40,7XX miles still under the 50K warranty.
 
Back