Really bad shudder

[jetblack]

ya with the cai and the fact that you said it has to be warmed up makes it seem most likely like fuel cut, if it gets worse when it's colder out like at night (depending on where you live) then that is even more evidence that it is fuel cut, the tune on these cars are just really bad, I really suggest saving up for an ssafc, look on Protegegarage.com for it, it is worth the money big time, and don't get the dealership reflash, just tune the car, because once you reflash it, as far as I know you might not be able to go back, but really even if you can, your better off just tuning it correctly with the ssafc because all the reflash does it retard the timing instead of correcting the fuel maps

I think with these cars, since the stock air box and everything is in the engine bay, and with the stock hood, the engine bay area is really really hot, so it is sucking in really hot air, the car is tuned for that hot air, so with a cai, the difference in air temp and air being read from the MAF sensor I think throws it off enough to cause fuel cut when it's not really hot outside.. at least that is what I think

SSAFC? What exactly does the reflash do? I haven't understood that yet. Thanks for your help.

That's a really good point about the cold air intake and warming up the car. That's almost worth getting a stock airbox just to try that out. At this point I don't care about performance I just want my car to run smoothly. It's really a pain in the ass to drive it when the main RPM range I have to go through every shift is unusable.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

split second air fuel controller, it's a really good investment anyways, but the reflash does what I said it does, it retards the timing on the injectors I think it is, so that instead of changing the fuel amounts, I think it just waits a fraction of a second more.. not really 100% sure on this but I know that they just retard the timing

 

[MassJDM]

well from my experience lately after my reflash i havent been happy at all... my car has had no power in boost i thought it was coils then i put some new ones in and nothing happened.. so i checked boost and it was fine and i havent checked fuel pressure yet but dont think its that cuz it idles fine and only does it during boost... and i am trying new plugs tomorrow morning before i go to the track... hopefully that does it but idk... and as far as what the reflash does.. im not quite sure but i dont like it..

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

I would ask to see if you could go back to the original ecu tune, and like I said to jetblack just get a ssafc, it's really only only way to go for these cars IMHO

 

[Spiced MSP]

I don't think the flash is reversable

 

[jetblack]

I would ask to see if you could go back to the original ecu tune, and like I said to jetblack just get a ssafc, it's really only only way to go for these cars IMHO

I would easily buy a ssafc if I knew that would solve the problem, but I don't know that it will and I don't want to spend $400 fishing for solutions. I'm a little frustrated atm, because undiagnosed problems are the worst.

I've got it in the shop right now while my guys try to figure it out, because it has gotten so violent I'm afraid I'll throw a rod or do some other permanent damage to the engine. If anyone has had this problem then fixed it let me know how please.

EDIT: Also, how do you know if the ECU has been re-flashed or not?

I've realized that this is posted in the wrong forum, so if the mods would move it to the problems forum I'd appreciate it.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ok well I just installed my custom fmic setup and reloacted the MAF sensor, and guess what.. it fixed any and all shuttering I had before, the ssafc will help a lot, but I think that if you were to relocate the MAF sensor to after the bov or anything like that, it will solve your problem, after driving with the 50/50 setup and then the relocated MAF, I will never, ever go back to a non relocated MAF, and right now I need to buy another HKS v2 BOV because just 1 isn't enough to get rid of the turkey/compression surge at lower boost, but at high it's good, but I figure I will save up for another 1, have duel BOV one on the hot and one on the cold pipe, and I should be more than set (thought)

but I forget what you have for mods, but if you feel like you might get a fmic or even an upgraded smic if you don't have it already, then relocate your MAF sensor, you won't regret it

 

[Spiced MSP]

I would easily buy a ssafc if I knew that would solve the problem, but I don't know that it will and I don't want to spend $400 fishing for solutions. I'm a little frustrated atm, because undiagnosed problems are the worst.

I've got it in the shop right now while my guys try to figure it out, because it has gotten so violent I'm afraid I'll throw a rod or do some other permanent damage to the engine. If anyone has had this problem then fixed it let me know how please.

EDIT: Also, how do you know if the ECU has been re-flashed or not?

I've realized that this is posted in the wrong forum, so if the mods would move it to the problems forum I'd appreciate it.

there should be a sticker either on the ECU or somewhere in the engine bay stating that the car has been reflased.

 

[jetblack]

ok well I just installed my custom fmic setup and reloacted the MAF sensor, and guess what.. it fixed any and all shuttering I had before, the ssafc will help a lot, but I think that if you were to relocate the MAF sensor to after the bov or anything like that, it will solve your problem, after driving with the 50/50 setup and then the relocated MAF, I will never, ever go back to a non relocated MAF, and right now I need to buy another HKS v2 BOV because just 1 isn't enough to get rid of the turkey/compression surge at lower boost, but at high it's good, but I figure I will save up for another 1, have duel BOV one on the hot and one on the cold pipe, and I should be more than set (thought)

but I forget what you have for mods, but if you feel like you might get a fmic or even an upgraded smic if you don't have it already, then relocate your MAF sensor, you won't regret it

I don't think relocating the MAF to after the BOV would solve the problem, because even when the car is not under boost it jerks. All it takes is being in the RPM range and just a little throttle. I guess I could try that though if the current round of stuff doesn't work.

Right now it's in the shop, and they don't really know what's up I think. Based on the CEL and process of elimination they replaced the cam-shaft sensor. Problem is apparently it was only charging at 12.9 volts, but the alternator isn't the problem. They're going to check the cable from the ECU and some other stuff, but My car has been there for 4 days, and will be there another 4 days since the weekend is about to start (toilet) The most frustrating thing of all is that there is no one that know anything about this car, even the dealership.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya that is why I try to avoid the shops at all cost, but anyways today I noticed the shutter again, I was going to flip since I had relocated my MAF it was running perfectly, like a dream (still needed tuning but no fuel cut what so ever) but anyways it was fuel cutting and stuttering like crazy anywhere close to or past 0psi, and was running really rich when it was that close to any boost, but anyways, I found out it was a leak... my C clip for the HKS bov was loose or kinda popped out in the back, it's happened before in my old setup, and I guess I just hadn't popped it back in completely when I did it this time, but I just popped it back in, tried to make it as solid as I could, gonna take it for a test run/tune right now, hopefully it works and I can get some good tuning done!

but if your BOV is venting to atmosphere, and you don't have a relocated MAF, that could help out a lot with this... it made a HUGE HUGE difference with mine, I would never ever go back, it's so much less of a headache now... btw do you have a WB? don't remember since the forums were crashed the last few days or whatever..