What blowoff valve are you running?

[Outlawstar98]

Hm... Are you useing a deticated vac line to the booster line? It helps alot.

 

[Zack]

no, its running off a T from the top vacuum nipple on the intake mani. Ive been meaning to T off from the brake booster line and try that out. do you know the size T fitting I need for it?

 

[POLARBEARsMP3]

this what I'm running Turbo XS Type H-RFL

 

[Outlawstar98]

For the break booster? Just but a vac block. I hve a MAM Vac block sitting around if you want to buy it, it has room for 3 ports I think. Which advance auto should have the ports that screw right in. You just gotta make sure you cut the booster line at the right section.

 

[Tzar177]

For the break booster? Just but a vac block. I hve a MAM Vac block sitting around if you want to buy it, it has room for 3 ports I think. Which advance auto should have the ports that screw right in. You just gotta make sure you cut the booster line at the right section.

Which is closest to firewall?

 

[rmak_14]

So i have my MAF on my injen right now, and if i wanted to run a BOV and put it on the cold side and relocate my MAF, what did you guys do with the air temp sensor that was on the injen before the MAF?? Did you guys plug the hole where the BPV recirc'd into on the intake?

 

[Outlawstar98]

The temp sensor gets pluged back into the intake, if the hole is gone because you had to remove a pipe for some reason, just drill a new one.

And Tzar, I dont understand your question.

 

[fuadmsp]

im going old skool ill be running a hks super sound on the hot pipe of a ion fmic with maf relocate on the cold pipe... after awhile ill be upgrading the original ion 2in hot pipe of the fmic to a 2.5 and im gonna leave the bov on the hot pipe

 

[Tzar177]

The temp sensor gets pluged back into the intake, if the hole is gone because you had to remove a pipe for some reason, just drill a new one.

And Tzar, I dont understand your question.

Cut brake booster line near firewall for vac block...is that what your saying?

 

[Outlawstar98]

yeah, but theres a one way valve on that pipe, you have to feel for it and make sure you dont cut it short, or you need to get a whole new line for the break booster.

 

[yudkib]

you could probably just buy a check valve...

 

[Outlawstar98]

you could probably just buy a check valve...

But isnt it stuffed in there greatly? how you going to put it in? haha be cheaper and less hassle free just to make sure you dont cut it haha

 

[HondaEat-R]

You could def use a generic check valve, however, considering the fact that your brakes operate as they do because of proper vacuum on the brake booster, you'd need to ensure that your new generic check valve allows enough vacuum to pass through it, or your brakes will be hard or non existent. Also, the check valve needs to be able to handle whatever PSI you're running, because the brake booster is not meant to see excessive, or any positive pressure for that matter.

 

[Outlawstar98]

I'd rather use OEM part hahah.

 

[yudkib]

You could def use a generic check valve, however, considering the fact that your brakes operate as they do because of proper vacuum on the brake booster, you'd need to ensure that your new generic check valve allows enough vacuum to pass through it, or your brakes will be hard or non existent. Also, the check valve needs to be able to handle whatever PSI you're running, because the brake booster is not meant to see excessive, or any positive pressure for that matter.

well, the positive pressure wont be an issue, thats for sure. i dont think any check valves exist that are rated below 100-150psi... we are obviously nowhere close to that. theres a bunch of different barbed check valves available on mcmaster e.g., but most of them arent flow rated... for flow ratings you have to get ones with various tube ends.
i have no doubt theres one that would work, especially since its on a 3/8" line, which should give it a pretty large flow. its just a matter of how many someone would try to find out.

 

[HondaEat-R]

I'd rather use OEM part hahah.

Probably a better choice, to maintain proper "cracking" pressures.



Bryan,

There are tons of check valves rated for endless psi levels, as I'm sure you know. I have some right here that are only reliable to ~15 psi and 20inHg, and I have a "Krank Vent" type poppet valve that is good to 300 psi. I'm just saying, somebody could get the wrong Idea, and go buy some cheesy check-valve not rated for anything useful.

 

[808MP5]

i'm running a Type R SSQV Synchronic RFL "Check Valve" hehe