What have you done to your MSP today?

Jackpot! Apparently I gave my dad some ARP studs when I got my steedspeed installed last year and he found them today. I counted 6 of them. Not sure what I was thinking just handing them over to him LOL.
 
Sweet, lucky you. LOL! I have ARP studs on my old head that ill be using on the new head im getting. haha

But installed a GT Spec link thingie, but didnt install those 2 bars, the one that goes around the exhaust will look like it will fit perfect, just the other one seams a little... it will hit the thing in the middle. lol!
 
working on my custom endlinks right now. and rewireing my boost gauge. and then doing a ss afc on my buddies spicy
 
I got 45mm arp studs too. Its kinda hard to find the 38mm ones. But good upgrade. You can now remove the manifold by urself.
 
well today I didn't drive my msp, but I finally took apart the bottom end of the block that my brother's msp had, the blown one (the guy had boosted to about 20-25psi with a Garret GT25 with AR 60 and a T3 compressor housing turbo.. on stock internals, every single other thing was built.. but the damn internals...(blowup)(loser)) and now I have the only surviving rod/piston cleaned up and hanging from the curtain hanger thing in my room as a memento lol

but anyways that was fun, it was the first time I have seen the inside of an engine, he had blown 1 piston ring, bent 1 of the rods and another rod had blown about 5 very large holes into the block.. he did some work lol


but anyways I though the nut that holds the oil cooler on there was 27mm, but I guess not seeing as the one I got doesn't fit.. anyone know the size so I don't have to keep going back to autozone to switch sockets.. and I don't wanna buy a couple because there $10 a piece for deep socket 1/2" drive...

EDIT: oh also got my windshield chip repaired.. the actual crack on the inside isn't going to go away just because it was an internal crack but not open to the outside.. but oh well, glad to have most of it repaired and so it should be a little studier now so it will be less likely to crack in the future
 
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that install was actually rediculously easy lol....

so while doing about 75 on the hwy a few hours ago i suddenly see my C/H gauge go from middle to H really quick then my oil and battery light comes on, then ona curve i notice i no longer have power steering.... the car shut off on me just like that!!!! so here i am trying to coast to the median with midnight drunk drivers!. so today (this morning) i got to use my trusty AAA card and call for a tow. That "little" leak in the resevoir turned into a big leak all of a sudden and i no longer had coolant in my car... dang it!.
 
For real? I see a lot of wires and got a little nervous

you need to tap into 2 for power and ground. and cut 2, connecting one to each side for the O2 and MAF. total of 6 connections. Its really not too bad.

as long as you have the pinout handy, its really quite simple.
 
It's either 28 or 30.. I'm pretty sure it's 28 though!



well today I didn't drive my msp, but I finally took apart the bottom end of the block that my brother's msp had, the blown one (the guy had boosted to about 20-25psi with a Garret GT25 with AR 60 and a T3 compressor housing turbo.. on stock internals, every single other thing was built.. but the damn internals...(blowup)(loser)) and now I have the only surviving rod/piston cleaned up and hanging from the curtain hanger thing in my room as a memento lol

but anyways that was fun, it was the first time I have seen the inside of an engine, he had blown 1 piston ring, bent 1 of the rods and another rod had blown about 5 very large holes into the block.. he did some work lol


but anyways I though the nut that holds the oil cooler on there was 27mm, but I guess not seeing as the one I got doesn't fit.. anyone know the size so I don't have to keep going back to autozone to switch sockets.. and I don't wanna buy a couple because there $10 a piece for deep socket 1/2" drive...

EDIT: oh also got my windshield chip repaired.. the actual crack on the inside isn't going to go away just because it was an internal crack but not open to the outside.. but oh well, glad to have most of it repaired and so it should be a little studier now so it will be less likely to crack in the future
 
didnt drive my msp ytd started it up this evening and it felt like the battery was low when i tried to start it, even had to give it a bit of gas. the trip was about 30mins, after dinner, a few hrs later, when i started it the battery felt like its low, not sure wt the problem is...i think the alternator is working fine though its too dark to see under the hood and the battery light wasnt on.
one thing to note is the battery ran dry for some reason this wednesday and there was some ticking noise in the fuse box before having my fd tap the power from his car to mine
wondering if its the battery or is it the fuse or sth else entirely...(sad2)
 
you need to tap into 2 for power and ground. and cut 2, connecting one to each side for the O2 and MAF. total of 6 connections. Its really not too bad.

as long as you have the pinout handy, its really quite simple.
ya, mp3 those orange wires are just datalogging wires (assuming you have v2) you would only need to hook those up to the O2 wideband sensor (and only 1 of them), but the other set of wires is really easy once you organize them, it's just the placement of the ssafc that might be semi tricky.. but not really lol.. I just screwed/double sided tapped the unit into the left side wall of the glove box and made sure the wires/vac lines were zip tied together nicely and to supporting parts so they woudln't catch or scrape on anything.. other than that, really easy, but if he doesn't get the pics, I will try to today if I install the TT in, not sure though, gotta plant some stuff in my moms garden (bought lots and lots of hot peppers yesterday lol, there fun to get your friends to try to eat them, although last year I was the only idiot eating most of them, this year im going for a whole fresh habinaro (sp) to eat lol, there a million times hotter fresh..)

so ya that's all lol
It's either 28 or 30.. I'm pretty sure it's 28 though!
ya that is what I thought originally, but apparently Garret said it was a GT25 off of an izzue turbo diesel truck when my dad gave them the #s, and I have been having the hardest time to figure out what wga would fit the thing so my brother can run safe boost levels.. .could you please do me a favor and check out this thread, I have been trying to figure this out for about a year now and no one has helped much.. but the actual turbo that I found is on one of the last pages..http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123749722 thanks
didnt drive my msp ytd started it up this evening and it felt like the battery was low when i tried to start it, even had to give it a bit of gas. the trip was about 30mins, after dinner, a few hrs later, when i started it the battery felt like its low, not sure wt the problem is...i think the alternator is working fine though its too dark to see under the hood and the battery light wasnt on.
one thing to note is the battery ran dry for some reason this wednesday and there was some ticking noise in the fuse box before having my fd tap the power from his car to mine
wondering if its the battery or is it the fuse or sth else entirely...(sad2)

well if it is the alternator I have one from my brother's car that had only 30k miles on it, the starter worked great when I got that tested and I could test the alternator for you too and sell it super cheap if you like (if that is the problem), just let me know in my part out thread, I'm mostly trying to get rid of stuff (at least the random smaller parts, the large parts like doors/trunks ect.. need to be pick up and im not really looking to low ball those prices but anyways...)


oh and today, I finally get the ball rolling for the GT SPEC STRUT BARS!! anyone want in before we start/finish this !!? do it now
 
Well I unhooked the battery and looked at the ECU a bit to see if the wire I ****** with had a good connection. I used a test light that my dad has and both ends of the wire are getting power so it must be solid. Also, when I started it up and let it idle after reconnecting the battery, the ABS and Ebrake lights were both on as usual. Though as soon as I drove out of the driveway, they both went off. I read in the service manual that I should check the battery and charging system. Any thoughts?
 
I guess I would go with that, you can always go to autozone and have them check that stuff for free (at least I'm pretty sure it's free, I know when I checked the alternator and starter it was free)
 
I guess I would go with that, you can always go to autozone and have them check that stuff for free (at least I'm pretty sure it's free, I know when I checked the alternator and starter it was free)

Oh nice. I thought most places charge about 10-15 bucks for it. Either way I think that is my next step.
 
GT Spec thingie installed fully :D
 

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Went to advance and the test came out well. I'm happy for that, but I still don't know if the light will come back on (i'm sure it will)...
 
Took apart a long block that was given to me by a friend from his P5 and will be taking it to the machine shop for further inspection on Monday. So far from my visual inspection, crank looks good and so does the block. Time to start taking apart my MSP's block as soon as I come back from a party I have to go too. Cant wait to start working on my MSP again!
 
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