Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
soak the crap out of it with PB blaster and give a vice grips a shot. if that doesn't do it you may need to bust out a torch.
looks like the brake line is okay. I broke the piston. Ill see if i can get it rebuild or if someone can hook me up with a rear/passenger MSP caliper.
well i put my twm shifter in. amd the bushings. i love it. its great
the Piston needs to be screwed in with a special adapter the attaches to a ratch wrench. Did u try to squeeze it in with Channel locks and that's how u broke it?
how hard are the shifter bushings to put in? cake? everybody says they are the s*** so I'm kind of curious.
I was trying to use a c clamp to push the piston back and i guess i did too much and it turned a tad bit. Afterwards i couldnt get the pads over the rotor kinda felt like the brakes were being applied. So i didnt put the pads in and tried driving it and my brake pedal went straight to ground when i pulled out the driveway. Checked the back and brake fluid was everywhere. So i need to screw it back in? Where can i get this adapter? man if this works u saved my ass buddy.
Most any auto parts store. It's a square cube with a bunch of different prongs on most of the sides of it. It fits a 3/8 ratchet and is still a pain to work with at first. I just did mine on Monday. It sucks to get it to start turning but then it turns freely once it starts retracting. Hopefully it didn't push the piston out of the cylinder when you tried driving without the pads, then I believe you will need to replace. Not sure if you take the cap off the brake fluid resevoir when you do thisd but I do it to relieve the pressure when pushing the piston back into the caliper. Heads up, anytime you have a brake piston with groves in it means to usde a tool most likely to spin it back in. VWs are the worst to work on.
THE PISTON NEEDS TO BE TURNED BACK... NOT PUSHED.Thanks for the reply. Since all the brake fluid is out now ill try pushing the piston back in. See if that'll do anything. If not, ill go get that adapter. I found a replacement for the caliper just wanna see if its fixable before replacing it. Thanks again. Why were u repairing yours?
THE PISTON NEEDS TO BE TURNED BACK... NOT PUSHED.
ok... hopefully you'll catch it now.
this is as opposed to any piston that is just a cylinder... which can simply be pressed back with a C clamp or channel locks etc.Heads up, anytime you have a brake piston with groves in it means you need to use a tool to spin it back in.
Thanks for the reply. Since all the brake fluid is out now ill try pushing the piston back in. See if that'll do anything. If not, ill go get that adapter. I found a replacement for the caliper just wanna see if its fixable before replacing it. Thanks again. Why were u repairing yours?
The fronts can be just pressed back in.Dont they just collapse back in with vise grips? It has been forever since I done the brakes on my mazda and I have done prolly 10 sets on other vehicles since then so i just forget.
Yes, like our front brakes is an open cup cylinder, no traction groves. I use another brake tool for that, just a threaded press that I can extend against the front of the caliper and simply pushes the cylinder back in. I use the old pad as the pushing surface so the pressure on the open cup design on the cylinder is even. Otherwise I have small "slight" concern about pushing it back katywompus if I use like a vise or c-clamp. But if you use a flat surface it should be pretty equal.this is as opposed to any piston that is just a cylinder... which can simply be pressed back with a C clamp or channel locks etc.
I was just putting on new rotors and pads. I didn't mess up the caliper at all, just know from past experiences with other makes/ models, I've helped several locals do there pros as well. The regular pros are even different still. They have a nut on teh back you have to turn to retract the piston. We didn't know that the first time we did that and it was a nightmare.