Stage 2 with Testpipe

[SallySpeed3]

Hey guys. With the recent addition of the corksport testpipe I'm loving this car even more now. Why I'm posting this is I've heard of some people running the Stage 2 maps with just a testpipe and they've had good results, and others that have not. I'm a little hesitant in trying Stage 2 just because of the danger of running higher boost, but I would also like to make sure I'm utilizing all of my mods 100%. Does anyone have their own map they created with ATR for a testpipe? Or could anyone give me some things to tweak in ATR using Stage 1 as a starting point? I've tried reading through the ATR manual to figure out how to do this myself but it's like reading gibberish, for me anyway. I learn from hands on, was never good at learning things out of a book. Anyway, any help or advice is appreciated. My mods are in my signature.

 

[coyfish]

When it comes to the OTS maps you just have to try them out. Some people (not me unfortnately) have great success while others don't.

I am running stage 2 with a test pipe. Just monitor what your engine is doing. If you are worried about boost then just see what your boosting and make sure its within safe parameters. If its too high then change maps. Same goes for A/F ratios, trims, etc.

If you want less boost then you could run 91 octane instead of 93.

 

[SallySpeed3]

I'll give that a shot, thanks. Just wondering, why haven't you had luck with the OTS maps?

 

[zx2man]

I did not have goodluck running stage 2 with testpipe..my afrs were too lean and my knock retard was around 3.5-5.....stage 1 sf map enabled me safer afr's and almost 0 knock..get occational .07.....but could live with that...like coyfish said just try it out and datalog..youll know right away if its gonna work for you..to be honest my car was just alittle spoiled little hoe...Even after my cobb downpipe it didnt like the ots stage 2..I simply had to custom tune it..these Mazda ecu's are alittle tricky and seem to vary from car to car...though keep a eye on your boost..the ots stage 2 really opens your car up..20-21 psi spiking now and then is ok..but my car was seeing almost 22 psi on a constant wot pull..which was just scary for this little k04 turbo..though seeing 366 wtq on the mustang dyno was cool Goodluck Sally

 

[SallySpeed3]

Yeah I'm gonna flash it in the morning and see how things go. I'll keep you guys posted. If it doesn't work, oh well, my car still hauls ass as is. But you know how it goes with power. You always want more. Modding this car is addictive. I'm already thinking of ways I can talk my wife into using some of our tax return for an upgraded IC, lol.

 

[SallySpeed3]

Well only took with about 10 minutes of driving to know that my car didn't like the stage 2 map. My LTFT's were between 8-15. I know I probably should have given it more learning time, but I figured even after that my trims would still be really high. Its a shame too, accelerating onto Route 80, not at wot, but just moderate acceleration, the car definitely felt more alive.

 

[jmcdonald56]

How is the sound with the corksport test pipe? I was thinking of getting that one also.

 

[SallySpeed3]

I like it. If you're looking for a subtle tone change then it's a good choice. At idle it has slightly more low end grumble but not much change in terms of volume. At WOT it's definitely louder but not in an annoying ricer sound way. I'm definitely also going to remove 1 resonator one of these days and that will do it for me in terms of exhaust until I can afford a 1 peice downpipe with a high flow cat. Just do the test pipe now, don't wait. Longer you wait the more of a b**** it is to get the stock pipe out. I had just over 36 thousand miles when i did mine and the 4 bolts that held it on were soooo difficult to remove. Invest in a breaker bar and get your car as high off the ground as possible. Corksports testpipe will take you 10 minutes or less to put in.

 

[jmcdonald56]

Thanks, I was thinking of doing the RP and CBE at the same time. I haven't heard much about corksport's CBE though. If I get it I will let you guys know. Thanks again

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

Thanks, I was thinking of doing the RP and CBE at the same time. I haven't heard much about corksport's CBE though. If I get it I will let you guys know. Thanks again

Spend the money on a Cobb high flow catted downpipe before investing in a CBE. Until you open up that restrictive downpipe a CBE is almost a waste, unless you are interested in spending several hundred dollars just to change the sound of your car.
I suggest this particular DP because I don't believe in going catless. You may of course feel differently.

 

[MSMS3]

Spend the money on a Cobb high flow catted downpipe before investing in a CBE. Until you open up that restrictive downpipe a CBE is almost a waste, unless you are interested in spending several hundred dollars just to change the sound of your car.
I suggest this particular DP because I don't believe in going catless. You may of course feel differently.

+1 excellent advice.

The stock CBE, even with a catless dp/rp (my combo into the stock CBE) outflows the maximum exhaust discharge rate of the stock K04 turbo. There are no power gains to be made with any aftermarket CBE on this engine with the stock turbo.

Change the CBE, at considerable expense, to change for the sound you like, but don't expect to gain any power unless you are very heavily max bolted with bigger turbo, manifold, etc. and making more than 300 whp.

Go with Mid Life's recommendation if you want or need a cat, or go catless as in my sig if you are in a state that does not check and you feel comfortable running catless. The mid pipe and its second cat are restrictive and replacing the mid pipe does produce a nice gain. But going with a good bell-mouthed high flow dp/rp combo, with or without cat(s) produces very, very nice gains, IMHO.

 

[jmcdonald56]

I thought about going with the Cobb DP, my only concern is having the turbo start smoking. I have read that sometimes installation of a DP causes the turbo to start smoking. I don't know if a lot of people who run the Cobb DP have had issues with a smoking turbo if not then I would love to go with the DP first.

 

[COBB Tuning]

I thought about going with the Cobb DP, my only concern is having the turbo start smoking. I have read that sometimes installation of a DP causes the turbo to start smoking. I don't know if a lot of people who run the Cobb DP have had issues with a smoking turbo if not then I would love to go with the DP first.

A downpipe will not cause a turbo to smoke. I would think that the free-flowing design of our downpipe would allow you to see that the turbo was smoking not cause the smoking. A turbo would smoke due to a seal going out which allows oil into the exhaust stream. Also, the MS3 has a poor PCV system, addressing this should eliminate oil smoke in your exhaust as well.

 

[SallySpeed3]

Hey Travis, since you're here anyway.....lol. Any tips/advice on how I can get started to modify the OTS Stage 1 93 w/SRI map with ATR to utilize my test-pipe?

 

[coyfish]

Its not easy sally. You could try to do it yourself but unless you are knowledgable I would pay the 150 or whatever cobb charges for an etune.

 

[08cosmic3]

I'm running Stg2+SF91v105 FMIC with just a test pipe. I run 93 octane gas. I tried it before the IC upgrade and it would not work but tried it again after installing the FMIC, although a FMIC map now, and it works. The only issue I have is my AF are little lean 12.3 @ WOT. Most of the time if I only go 95 percent I will stay mid to high 11's. Cobb has said mid 12's in this car is ok but I will richen it some when I get the fuel pump upgrade. I tried another members map with same mods that was richer and my FP could not keep up.

I can say that my car hauls ars with this map. I spike 20.5 and hold mid 19's tapering down as the RPM's climb.

 

[Jchouin1]

just be carefull with the stage2 map with no dp, as the issue becomes heat backing up from the cat after extended runs under boost...like running through 5 gears at wot. This is what was explained to me by Cobb when I asked about stage2 with a test pipe.

 

[goob_os101]

Am I good to run a DP without a tune? Sorry for the newbie question, but coming from a boxer engine we could not run just a Dp without a tune or EM...just getting my feet wet with the MS3

Mods:
CP-e CAI
SU cold-pipe boost tube
Turbosmart Dual port

 

[MSMS3]

Am I good to run a DP without a tune? Sorry for the newbie question, but coming from a boxer engine we could not run just a Dp without a tune or EM...just getting my feet wet with the MS3

Mods:
CP-e CAI
SU cold-pipe boost tube
Turbosmart Dual port

Yes. Make sure you have a boost gauge and that you are not exceeding 17.5-18 psi.

That's the point where you may encounter boost creep or where the ECU may slap you back down hard with load cut, depending on the outside temperature and a lot of other obscure factors. The turbo is small and poops out at 6,000 rpm and can't last long at sustained boost levels above 18 psi. The ECU starts closing the throttle plate at 6,000 rpm to protect the turbo from overheating. Max hp and therefore your shift point should be between 5,500 and 5,800 rpm because of this. But the turbo is a good choice for this platform, IMHO, because it is very responsive, has very little boost lag, and represents a good compromise in a car that most use as a daily driver.

The dp, especially a catless one, will raise boost by about 2 psi, which is a good thing. It does put you close to maxing out the wastegate because of the small wastegate port on our turbo (boost creep then ensues for those who have this issue, although it has not affected me). It also does run up against the max load table mapping of the stock ECU which is very aggressive in jumping in to stop the fun.

Finally, IMHO, you should really run your BPV in full recirc on this MAF engine that has already metered and matched fuel to any air that later escapes to atmosphere, making an already rich AFR worse.

Just one opinion based on experience with mods listed below. Others may differ. Catless dp/rp works great with stock BPV and stock tune. 13.4 quarters at 106. 60-100 mph in 6.1-6.4 range depending on temps and humidity, etc, 40-120 in 12.5 seconds. Really crappy 60 ft's. Need driver mod or better tires to fix that.