(2) Tweeters:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-035
(4) .15mH inductors:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-804
(2) 10uF capacitors:
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-428
(2) .10mH inductors: ((optional- if you are going to keep the fader at Front +8, you don't need to bother with these)
http://www.parts-express.com//pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-020&DID=7
(2) packs of crimp-on butt connectors:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151268
(4) crimp-on male quick-disconnect fittings (I didn't use them, but size the ones you need against your new tweeter)
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=quick-disconnect&origkw=Quick-Disconnect&sr=1
Soldering iron, solder, crimping tool/wire cutter
Electrical tape
You'll have to find a how-to on getting the front door panels off. I didn't take any pictures, but I'll try to be as detailed as possible.
First thing to do is solder two pairs of .15mH coils together in parallel, to make an effective .075mH. This is why you need 4 of them- one soldered pair for each door. Use a bread-bag tie or ty-wrap to keep them together. Set them aside for now.
For both the driver and passenger side, the (+) speaker wire is a solid white, and the (-) is solid gray. This applies for the woofer and tweeter.
Get the door panel off, and look for the wire bundle as shown in
this picture. Just make a mental note of where it is for now.
Remove the woofer, and cut the white wire, with at least 2" of wire remaining to the plug that goes to the speaker. Strip about 1/4" insulation off each part of the cut wire.
The reason I listed the mixed pack of butt connectors is because you'll need blue ones for the soldered-together coils. Using the blue butt-connectors, put the coil inline with the white wire you just cut. Wrap your connections with electrical tape. Plug the woofer back in and test to make sure you have a good connection (i.e. you have sound). Now what I did, since I had some poly fill, was stuff the hole in the door behind the woofer. Besides the obvious benefits, it made for a nice cushy place to sit the coil without having to worry about it flopping around. You may choose your own method, but you do want to secure it. Reinstall the woofer and you're done with that part.
Now, that bundle of wires I mentioned before is taped up, with some type of cloth tape. You'll need to cut and peel some of that off to find the (+) junction. What you're looking for is a metal crimp on the white wire where one white wire is crimped to two other white wires. You'll understand when you see it. The single wire coming in is the (+) from the amp. The white wire routed upwards is going to the tweeter. The one routed downwards is going to the woofer. Make sure you note exactly which is which. You want to cut the crimp terminal out completely, leaving 3 loose white wires. Strip each one. Now, twist the wire from the amp together with the wire going to the woofer, and crimp them together in one end of a red butt connector.
What I did was snip the leads from the capacitor down to about 3/4", so that very little was exposed out of the butt connector. The leads on the capacitor are like 2 or 3 inches from the factory, which is way too much for this job.
Okay, so now crimp one end of the capacitor into the connector opposite the two white wires. Then use another butt connector to connect the other end of the capacitor to the remaining loose white wire (which goes to the tweeter). Play some music, turn the treble up, and verify you can hear sound from the tweeter, so that you know your connections are good. Tape up your work, and use some tape to hold the capacitor in place (I taped it to the wire bundle). You're 2/3 done, congratulations.
Remove the window sail. Disconnect the blose tweeter and remove it from the sail. Cut the two wires going to the tweeter connector. To make sure you have enough slack in your wires (I almost didn't), make your cut no more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the plug. You'll also see a plastic "tube" that's taped up around the wires. Remove this if you find you need more slack to put the sail back in.
Strip the exposed tweeter wires, and crimp your quick-disconnects onto them. Loosely connect the QD's to the new tweeter just long enough to make sure your connections are good and everything works. Try to contain yourself when you hear the improvement for the first time. Now take the tweeter, and wrap enough rounds of electrical tape (maybe 3) around it to make it fit snugly into the tweeter cutout in the sail panel. Depending on the width of your tape, you may have to trim things up a bit to get it flush. Once you have a good fit, position the tweeter in the sail panel
rotated in a way that you will need minimum slack from the wires. You will understand when you see it. Now connect your QD's, keeping polarity in mind, and then put the sail panel back in. If there isn't enough slack in the wires, you may have to un-tape and remove that plastic tube to get some more slack. You may also have to **carefully** bend the tweeter terminals down some to get the sail panel back in. Just take your time and analyze what you need to do to get it done.
Now, put some music on, and play with the bass, balance, and treble controls, to see that everything works. You should notice an EXTREME difference in upper midrange and highs between the modded and unmodded doors.
Put the door back together, and repeat the same process for the other side. The first door took me twice as long, because I was kinda fumbling my way through it. Once I knew what to look for and what to cut/splice/crimp, the second door took less than an hour.
The optional low-pass rear door mod is already explained in detail in this thread. Some people will prefer to fade everything to the front and not bother with the rear speakers at all. It's a matter of preference.