Endlink help!

Psylence

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2002 Mazda Protege5
I'm having trouble figuring out what I should do about my endlinks. I want to just replace them when I put in my new shocks and springs. I'm installing the tokico hpk247 kit which will drop it 1.4 Front / 1.75 Rear. I haven't exactly figured out the make your own endlinks thing, and I want to upgrade to a bigger rear sway bar later on when I have some extra money. I need someone to tell me what to buy!(eyeballs)
I think eventually I'm going to get the progress 22mm RSB but what endlinks will work with it? Can I buy endlinks that will work with the progress but also work with the stock RSB for now?
 
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I got mine from a member on here. His screen name was ***************. They were priced right and work great.
 
Been running stock endlinks with my progress 22mm rr sway with illuminas/espelirs lowered 1.4 for years without noise or any other issues.
 
stock p5 endlinks? that's good to know. I thought stock was all i needed cause they say "MP3/5 Requires OEM Sway-bar Link" So I guess that clears that up. Right?
 
A vendor here (http://www.ProtegeGarage.com/ )sells adjustable endlinks. I believe they go for 89.99 per set. I just put the Tokico kit in my car a few weeks ago. Despite soaking the endlink bolts with PB Blaster for a week before starting, they had to be cut off. Keep a grinder handy.
 

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Been running stock endlinks on a progress rear bar with tokico blues and Sprint springs for a few months now. 2" drop and no problems.
 
A vendor here (http://www.ProtegeGarage.com/ )sells adjustable endlinks. I believe they go for 89.99 per set. I just put the Tokico kit in my car a few weeks ago. Despite soaking the endlink bolts with PB Blaster for a week before starting, they had to be cut off. Keep a grinder handy.

Yup. I just did my rear struts and ended up having to grind off my endlinks, even tho I PB Blastered them every night for 5 days, and took a torch to them as well.
 
Yup. I just did my rear struts and ended up having to grind off my endlinks, even tho I PB Blastered them every night for 5 days, and took a torch to them as well.

Socket wrench + a 3 ft pipe on the handle solves that problem (blowup)
 
A vendor here (http://www.ProtegeGarage.com/ )sells adjustable endlinks. I believe they go for 89.99 per set. I just put the Tokico kit in my car a few weeks ago. Despite soaking the endlink bolts with PB Blaster for a week before starting, they had to be cut off. Keep a grinder handy.

Yeah I've been debating going with the AWR's. On one hand, they're really expensive, but on the other hand they're probably more dependable than any other option.
 
Socket wrench + a 3 ft pipe on the handle solves that problem (blowup)

Have you ever taken endlinks off of these cars? It's not a problem of getting enough torque to turn the bolt. It's a problem of holding the ball stud stationary while you spin the nut off. After 8 years, the allen key just strips the stud out when you try to hold it in place.
 
Been running stock endlinks on a progress rear bar with tokico blues and Sprint springs for a few months now. 2" drop and no problems.
I'm gonna be installing my Progress RSB in a few days and will be using my stock endlinks but was wondering about the beefier AWR adjustable endlinks that can adjust "preload". What exactly does this mean? Does the swaybar have to be set at a certain angle for it to work properly? I'm assuming the height of the car is going to affect the geometry of the RSB and therefore need adjustable endlinks to even out??
 
Yea I'm sure that with adjustable endlinks you could preload it right and all that jazz but I'm not too worried about that since I don't go racing or anything.
 
i won't be racing it but am worried that I won't be taking full advantage of the swaybar if it's not properly "preloaded" on my lowered P5....hence the thought of adjustable endlinks.
 
I'm gonna be installing my Progress RSB in a few days and will be using my stock endlinks but was wondering about the beefier AWR adjustable endlinks that can adjust "preload". What exactly does this mean? Does the swaybar have to be set at a certain angle for it to work properly? I'm assuming the height of the car is going to affect the geometry of the RSB and therefore need adjustable endlinks to even out??

The other issue with AWR endlinks (from what I have heard) is that unless they are adjusted exactly right, they're going to clunk. Stockers will not, and will be fine for the progress bar.
 
Just replaced a front endlink today. Hope you got a dremel cause that's one b**** of an operation. I tried to get the top one off with pb blast and elbow grease but after about an hour gave up one that. Ended up cutting both nuts off. Seriously though its insane how stuck on those nuts are.
 
I'll post it wherever I can but the endlink bolts can be easily removed 99.9% of the time with an electric impact wrench (or air impact but most people don't have those). Electric impact wrenches are cheap and come in EXTREMELY useful in many many situations. You don't have to mess around with the stupid ******* allen wrench or any of that stupid crap. Just put it on, pull the trigger and voila.
 
Well i got air tools and such but when I put the impact wrench to it the whole thing turned. Very curious how you do it without the allen key or just cutting the damn nut off.
 
Really? That's really weird. I just put the socket on and let the electric wrench wind up and then break it loose. All of them came off real easy.... Before I found that way, I did end up cutting off a couple of them. Maybe the ones that are completely shot just spin completely freely.
 
The other issue with AWR endlinks (from what I have heard) is that unless they are adjusted exactly right, they're going to clunk. Stockers will not, and will be fine for the progress bar.

Well I hope they don't clunk...I just bought both front and rear sets!
 
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