another new one

Rez

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'06 Mustang GT-Brenspeed Stage 3
Finally got my 06 MS6...it was a repo, got it from a credit union auction. Motor and body are solid, interior was perfect. The only issue was that someone had keyed it--Hood, doors, and decklid...probably the jackass that couldn't pay for it in the first place. Getting it repaired as I type this...then the mods start.

Anyone have any suggestions on exhaust systems? I'm thinking of replacing the dual outlets with one 3" cat-back, and hanging a "fake pipe" on the other side to balance it out. Or hsould I stick with the duals...some many options....Thanks for the suggestions...Later
 
Finally got my 06 MS6...it was a repo, got it from a credit union auction. Motor and body are solid, interior was perfect. The only issue was that someone had keyed it--Hood, doors, and decklid...probably the jackass that couldn't pay for it in the first place. Getting it repaired as I type this...then the mods start.

Anyone have any suggestions on exhaust systems? I'm thinking of replacing the dual outlets with one 3" cat-back, and hanging a "fake pipe" on the other side to balance it out. Or hsould I stick with the duals...some many options....Thanks for the suggestions...Later

you will get maximum performance for your idea of a single 3inch pipe, you will also get the maximum weight reduction (every little bit helps in this tankass car) instead of adding the fake pipe. you may be consciencious about it but when i see a speed6 with one pipe all i do is smile a lot, and get a little jealous.
 
Thanks, that is exactly what I plan to do. I've changed my idea of a fake pipe to just putting a blank behind the drivers side outlet. Hell, nobody can tell anyway.
 
Im a big fan of the duals... they sound great, a bit more quiet and your keep the natural factory look of the car the way it was intended...

If you want to shed weight, buy a nice set of lightweight wheels... for ex. enkei rpf1's... those weigh 17lbs a piece... the stockers weigh around 24!!! thats a huge unsprung weight savings! you also loose around 5+ lbs per corner with a good set of coilovers...
 
Welcome to the forums, first and foremost. I stuck with the dual 3" exhaust that Corksport offers. It was highly affordable, sounds fantastic, and was a vast improvement over what the stock performance was. I went with duals because I just couldn't bring myself to have a plugged off or empty hole in the rear bumper.
 
Maybe I spoke too soon....when you start getting different opinions, this tends to affect the outcome...This is a good problem though, lots of good choices and opinions out there, just what I needed.

Now, what about CAI vs. SRI---I'm befuddled with this one...Any ideas on these would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Maybe I spoke too soon....when you start getting different opinions, this tends to affect the outcome...This is a good problem though, lots of good choices and opinions out there, just what I needed.

Now, what about CAI vs. SRI---I'm befuddled with this one...Any ideas on these would be appreciated. Thanks!

Ah, the age-old CAI versus SRI debate. In a nutshell, it does matter the temperatue of the air that you put into the engine even if the turbo heats that air up. However, the performance improvement of the MZR DISI turbo with a CAI instead of an SRI is negligable at best. Save the hydrolock headaches. Save the extra money. Buy a SRI.
 
I'm thinking of replacing the dual outlets with one 3" cat-back, and hanging a "fake pipe" on the other side to balance it out.

Just wanted to add in, with one pipe it might look a little funny in the winter time with smoke only coming out of one of the exhausts (uhm):D
 
Welcome aboard.

yes CAI vs SRI will never be solved. Like Blendercloud said.

it was solved repeatedly by the tuner scott siegal @ topspeed...

they recorded temps 20* colder with the cold air intake.

When the hood is up/open on the dyno is doesnt do much, but in actual driving conditions, when the hood is closed the CAI runs on average 20 degree's colder...

remember, HP Output = +1% HP per 10 degrees
for ex. 300whp car is going to gain 6whp on top of the SRI
 
Not doubting it, but would love to see his results compared to others. Where were the intake temperatures measured?
 
it was solved repeatedly by the tuner scott siegal @ topspeed...

they recorded temps 20* colder with the cold air intake.

When the hood is up/open on the dyno is doesnt do much, but in actual driving conditions, when the hood is closed the CAI runs on average 20 degree's colder...

remember, HP Output = +1% HP per 10 degrees
for ex. 300whp car is going to gain 6whp on top of the SRI

On any forced induction engine where you are compressing air and pushing it into the cylinder (instead of the cylinder's vacuum sucking the mixture in) you will not see equal temperature reduction from a CAI post-boost like you do pre-boost.

A simple example would be:
N/A car with CAI; IAT's drop 20 degrees; Engine coolant temperature is at 200 degrees; Ideally, based on a lot of assumptions*, you would have about a 2% increase in power.

Turbo car with CAI; IAT's drop 20 degrees; Compression at the turbine heats the air to 70 degrees over your IAT's; Intercooler cools the boosted air 50 degrees; Once finally pushed into the cylinder, boosted air is 20 degrees higher than the IAT and you have effectively seen nearly no improvement.

* The rule of thumb that 10 degree reduction equals +1% power is an educated guess at best. It gets thrown around a lot and associated to situations it has nothing to do with. Many people assume that it's based on engine coolant temperature. For example, subtracting 10 degrees off your coolant temps by using a more efficient radiator. Not so much the case.

Your coolant temperature may be 200F, but your engine is running much hotter than that. The assumption it is based on coolant temps makes assumptions that there is no energy loss (radiated heat). If you were to eliminate your radiator and run the engine long enough, there will be a point before it overheats where you will see just how hot the engine runs. The whole engine is not the same temperature, which is another assumption made with that rule of thumb.

Essentially, the 10 degrees reduction from true engine temperatures is rationally a much smaller increment than it is from coolant temperatures. So someone who assumes this assumes they are gaining much more than they really are.

For intake air temperatures (IATs) on a naturally aspirated car, a 10 degree reduction will see some increase in noticeable power. The air mixture versus fuel in the cylinder is more dense (more parts oxygen versus gasoline); and the cooler air/fuel charge is helping keep cylinder temperatures slightly lower which reduces the chance of detonation. Both of these things allow you to advance the timing just a bit more and make more power.

The argument that just because you lower your IATs by 10 degrees you got another +1% power is fallacious unless when making that argument you show that you have seen the task through by way of advancing the timing. At that point, you should just say "I lowered the IATs on my car and was able to advance the timing and make a bit more power". Also, another thing that should be noted is the rule of thumb was based upon flywheel horsepower, not wheel horsepower. Knowing this, you can see where "a fraction of a fraction of a fraction" doesn't leave turbocharged users much to gain with CAI for this particular platform.
 
Thanks Blendercloud...that explanation pretty much sealed the deal for me--SRI.

I know it's not the most popular choice, but until they come out with an air-conditioned intake--like Ford tried with the Cobra, we're all pretty much stuck with the two choices we have--SRI v. CAI--plusses and minuses for both, but I'm going with the PG SRI for my car.

Thanks!
 
I've got the PG SRI and I love it, simple to install and sounds great. You should think about getting the inlet with it too, I got mine together and saved some money.
 
Blenders argument makes sense.... however, a quick details on the intake test.

The car was tested and proven to make more power with ZERO tuning. It did offer the ability to advance the timing and make proper tuning adjustments for additonal power.

With the cold intake there is more room to free up the potential of the engine. Why anyone would want to skip this option is beyond me... probably price would be the factor.

when i switched my subaru from the k&n short ram which comes with an air box to keep heat from the engine out, to the APS cold air, my car picked up approx 2-5whp

Maybe i'll tell scott about this thread and have him post the exact details. Without having any data on hand anymore its hard for me to thoroughly prove me point.

The saying 1% more power for every 10* degree's is used in general terms. What im simply saying is colder air into the motor provides can/does provide power and also allows the turbo to run a bit colder as well, improving efficiency.
 
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On any forced induction engine where you are compressing air and pushing it into the cylinder (instead of the cylinder's vacuum sucking the mixture in) you will not see equal temperature reduction from a CAI post-boost like you do pre-boost.

A simple example would be:
N/A car with CAI; IAT's drop 20 degrees; Engine coolant temperature is at 200 degrees; Ideally, based on a lot of assumptions*, you would have about a 2% increase in power.

Turbo car with CAI; IAT's drop 20 degrees; Compression at the turbine heats the air to 70 degrees over your IAT's; Intercooler cools the boosted air 50 degrees; Once finally pushed into the cylinder, boosted air is 20 degrees higher than the IAT and you have effectively seen nearly no improvement.

* The rule of thumb that 10 degree reduction equals +1% power is an educated guess at best. It gets thrown around a lot and associated to situations it has nothing to do with. Many people assume that it's based on engine coolant temperature. For example, subtracting 10 degrees off your coolant temps by using a more efficient radiator. Not so much the case.

Your coolant temperature may be 200F, but your engine is running much hotter than that. The assumption it is based on coolant temps makes assumptions that there is no energy loss (radiated heat). If you were to eliminate your radiator and run the engine long enough, there will be a point before it overheats where you will see just how hot the engine runs. The whole engine is not the same temperature, which is another assumption made with that rule of thumb.

Essentially, the 10 degrees reduction from true engine temperatures is rationally a much smaller increment than it is from coolant temperatures. So someone who assumes this assumes they are gaining much more than they really are.

For intake air temperatures (IATs) on a naturally aspirated car, a 10 degree reduction will see some increase in noticeable power. The air mixture versus fuel in the cylinder is more dense (more parts oxygen versus gasoline); and the cooler air/fuel charge is helping keep cylinder temperatures slightly lower which reduces the chance of detonation. Both of these things allow you to advance the timing just a bit more and make more power.

The argument that just because you lower your IATs by 10 degrees you got another +1% power is fallacious unless when making that argument you show that you have seen the task through by way of advancing the timing. At that point, you should just say "I lowered the IATs on my car and was able to advance the timing and make a bit more power". Also, another thing that should be noted is the rule of thumb was based upon flywheel horsepower, not wheel horsepower. Knowing this, you can see where "a fraction of a fraction of a fraction" doesn't leave turbocharged users much to gain with CAI for this particular platform.

I will go with Blendercloud on this thread. (alright)

Blenders argument makes sense.... however, a quick details on the intake test.

The car was tested and proven to make more power with ZERO tuning. It did offer the ability to advance the timing and make proper tuning adjustments for additonal power.

With the cold intake there is more room to free up the potential of the engine. Why anyone would want to skip this option is beyond me... probably price would be the factor.

when i switched my subaru from the k&n short ram which comes with an air box to keep heat from the engine out, to the APS cold air, my car picked up approx 2-5whp

Maybe i'll tell scott about this thread and have him post the exact details. Without having any data on hand anymore its hard for me to thoroughly prove me point.

The saying 1% more power for every 10* degree's is used in general terms. What im simply saying is colder air into the motor provides can/does provide power and also allows the turbo to run a bit colder as well, improving efficiency.


Again, do you have any sort of data to back this up? Find me a link...

Oh, I am not asking Blendercloud for a link because I already know what he says is spot on correct.
 
If we're going to talk about gains with a CAI vs. SRI, save it. There's plenty of legitimate research done and it's been proven. Blendercloud pretty much laid it out there for the OP.

Back to the topic at hand, welcome to the forums!
 
If we're going to talk about gains with a CAI vs. SRI, save it. There's plenty of legitimate research done and it's been proven. Blendercloud pretty much laid it out there for the OP.

Back to the topic at hand, welcome to the forums!

(werd)
 
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