brakes help

MK_JPX

Member
hey guys, when i press the brake pedal, it only works when its all the way down, and it doesnt brake very fast, seems like there is air in the lines, but we bleeded it the other day, and it didnt fix it, and someone told me it could be my brake shoes so I changed thoes today and it didnt fix the problem.

also when i pump the breaks when the car is off, it build's up the proper pressure (pedal feals normal) but as soon as i turn the car on its soft again.

anyone have any idea what i gotta do to fix this?
 
After you pump them up if you hold your foot on the pedal does it slowly go down? You may need to replace/rebuild your master cylinder.
 
On a similar note, and maybe I should start a new thread...but I'm about to replace the front pads on my girlfriend's '03 Protege DX. I also need to replace a stud which made me notice the pads being low, but I digress.
Anything special I should know about the Mazda's that aren't like other cars? I've done the brakes on my Neon before. I don't have a book for this car.
 
After you pump them up if you hold your foot on the pedal does it slowly go down? You may need to replace/rebuild your master cylinder.

I agree, but here's what may have caused the master cylinder's death....

When you bleed the brakes manually, place a wood block under the brake pedal to limit its travel to about what it travels normally. If you don't do this, you will overextend the master cylinder piston's seal, which may cut itself on the wear-ridge that has formed in the bore after many thousands of miles of use.

Regarding pads: I haven't done the Protege yet, but with my MX6 GT's rear brakes, the caliper pistons need to be rotated to get them to go back into their bores. I use a needle nose, but there is a tool that makes doing this easier. The complete service manual for most Proteges can be found here:

www.floptical.net/mazda

I recently swapped out a stud and my advice is to make sure you have a ball peen hammer or small sledge. Take off the calipers and rotor before pounding the old stud in towards the car. Ball peen hammers and sledges won't chip like a claw hammer will.

Good luck.
 
The front brake pads can be changed like any normal car. Just remember to put the guide plates and anti-rattle clips back, it's just better in the long run.

For the future, when you do the pads, you to reset the piston, you have to remove a cover screw on the backside of the caliper to reveal a manual adjustment screw that you have to turn counter-clockwise until you can push back the piston.

Other than that, there's nothing to it but to do it. Good luck, make sure she cooks for you. mmmmm

I must be hungry
 
How many miles on the master cyl?



hey guys, when i press the brake pedal, it only works when its all the way down, and it doesnt brake very fast, seems like there is air in the lines, but we bleeded it the other day, and it didnt fix it, and someone told me it could be my brake shoes so I changed thoes today and it didnt fix the problem.

also when i pump the breaks when the car is off, it build's up the proper pressure (pedal feals normal) but as soon as i turn the car on its soft again.

anyone have any idea what i gotta do to fix this?
 

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