CulRidr's MP3 N/A build (~150whp goal)

nasty? hell no, that s*** is the bomb!
just stfu, close your eyes and eat it
and yes, you eat it with a fork

most canadians simplify it by just dumping gravy in the fries and skip the cheese, and it's just as good


uncultured americans (laugh)

Hell yeahs. Reminds me of an Aussie favorite. Chips (thick cut fries) and gravy. In a cup. No fork. Left until gravy makes chips soggy. It's seriously good eating.
 
Ha, how did you do that Let me get that for you thing? Funny as hell.
I'm going to answer that with the same answer as before...
(google) (note the link)
Yes, I am incredibly bored at work... and chopping out a roll of tissue paper was a good fifteen minutes distraction on Photochop...

My vote for Mazda of the Month...(nana)
Holy good work dude!! (first)
 
Picture of valve springs:

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Before and after the engine bay cleaning...
I want to get back in there and clean all the hoses for them to have a new black look. Anyone have anything to suggest? Trim shine will blacken it up temporarily, but I'd like something a bit more permanent then that.

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Get some black Tremclad while you can actually jump in there. Anyhow...been following your thread recently...very informative and entertaining...good job man!
 
for the subframe you mean? I've thought about that. If the engine isn't back in on Friday, I'll ask to get in there on Saturday.
 
Just realized there is a small snag in my plans. Was doing some research on my lower tie bar, only to realize that it will interfere with the oil pan. I'll need to run without the lower tie bar until I get a custom bracket made to install the bar on.
This is the picture (of another member from TOProtege) which reminded me of this issue - as well as his custom fix which I will try to copy - to remedy the situation:

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this is why I NEVER considered an aftermarket oil pan.. c'mon AWR, you *knew* the tie bars existed and were hugely popular when you came out with your oil pan, wtf were you thinking not making space for a tie bar???
just more reasons I hate non-japanese aftermarket parts

some were lucky and got it to fit tightly though... must be huge manufacturing variances on the oil pan
 
^True, and I hope I will be one of the lucky ones. Did they manage it with a GTspec or with an Autoexe? I'll have my dealership try and install it, but if not, I'll try the bracket approach. Does the bar move AT ALL? My engine will move a little bit with the motor mounts, but not much. How much clearance would you suggest?
 
of course the bar doesn't move, why do you think it's called a tie bar?
it doesn't matter which one it is because the gtspec is just a copy of the autoexe/cusco
 
You would be better off ditching the tie bar in favor of the awr pan. The tie bar isn't going to make a huge difference where as the awr pan is going to save the engine. Also putting the bar on the brackets if you do have any flex there the brackets are just going to flex defeating any point of the tie bar.
 
Those springs look familiar! ;) To clean the engine bay, spray it with simple green MAX and pressure wash it. THen just throw some paint on the subframe.

I Agree with Shadow. Ditch the tie bar in favor of the oil pan... Don't know why Edwin thinks the other way?
 
^The engine bay is fine now, and I probably won't bother with the subframe since the engine will most likely be dropped in before I can get to it again. And I somewhat doubt that simple green will clean up the hoses without a good rubdown?

And I agree with you, but I'd obviously like to use both. You'd think it would be possible to round the shape of the AWR just enough to get it to clear on the passenger side...
 
That simple green MAX stuff will knock the dog off a gutwagon. Makes hoses black again. Use a pressure washer though.
 
Couldn't I just use that same product fairly concentrated on a rag? Pressure washing in the dealership, and near all the connectors doesn't sound like the greatest idea...
 
Pressure washing the connectors is perfectly fine, I do it everytime I have my engine out. How would it be bad for them? Just don't plug them in when they're wet, which you won't seeing as how the engine won't even be back in for another few days.

I'd say no to doing it on a rag, rinsing with water really is the only way to do it properly...
 
Is that because it can leave residue, or because it's not as effective? I'd need some kind of special permission to move my car into the wash bay and use the pressure washer, but I'll see what I can do (assuming the engine doesn't go back in tomorrow)

Edit: Just talked to the dealership, and bringing it in the wash bay is impossible since you can't turn the wheel and push it in due to the engine/transmission not being in the car, so I'll just give it a power wash with the engine in there at some future date and try to get into all the nooks...I'm just glad I got to clean the rest of it :)
 
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The transmission is DONE and will be picked up this morning. Still waiting to hear about the head, but the long block should be built today where it will get resprayed, and the whole thing will be dropped in early next week...I CAN'T wait!! (drive2)
 
Why can't you move the car without the engine being installed? They're pullign a fast one on you man. The car is completely moveable and steerable without engine and trans in the car.
 
They were saying that the bearings would go to s*** without the axles being connected, or something like that. Load of BS, or just them being overly cautious?
 

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