What have you done to your MSP today?

yeah i thought that about the design too... seems like they could have put the highflow in the location of the 2nd cat, then I realized that location, on the new pipe with the flex section is crucial to installing it.

All I did was go to the part store get some 18gauge wire and 10 butt crimpers with heat activated shrink wrap. worked out nicely. but if you want to spend the money on an extender its up to you. just factor the cost of the wire + connecters, around 14 bux. the see the price for an extended

I ask because I have a midpipe at my house that I need to install but I need to extend the 02 sensor wires as well. I just thought some dumbass put it on the wrong end of the pipe.


Edit: Would you suggest just buyign one of those pnp 02 sensor wire extentions?
 
is the car sitting low at idle too? And I think your the MSP with like 20k on it right? If thats the case, you should be more than fine on the injector and belt front, but it never hurts to inspect. I would def. inspect the MAF and BPV to make sure everything is tight and flowing smoothly. You can also pick up MAF sensor cleaner at Pep Boys for under $10

...and I hear ya on the high temps, I would be the one to break my A/C a week before this random April heat wave...haha



will a messed up WGA effect idle? I thought I read that it would
 
It can because when the diaphragm tears it leaks vaccume. Doesn't always show on a vac gauge though.(uhm)

I have a feeling that is precisely what is wrong with mine too. No leaks in the vacuum lines or pipes; nothing weird on the gauge; but serious idle issues once in a while. Been getting worse over the last week. Only thing I could come up with is the wga. Time to order the ATP.
 
That's the problem....it feels like fuel cut, but its not overboosting much at all. It just appears to have problem building boost. Maybe a boost leak instead? It sucks because the symptoms point in so many directions, yet I've eliminated most of them. Reason I point to the wga is because over the weekend I did another blow test, and sure enough, its not air tight like it should be.
 
Mine had some of these symptoms and the problem was the #2 spark plug wire. Not really a wire but you know. There was a crack in the plastic and it would arc to the valve cover when I went into boost. The idle was fine though so idk.

Watch the boost gauge close and run it up into the high rpms. When I did this I could definately tell it was a miss instead of fc.
 
Well I'll have to do some serious checking this weekend. I'd like to get a second opinion, but can't get anyone in the Tampa area to take her for a spin to help me diagnose it. Wouldn't be that big of an issue if it weren't my daily driver....I'd just tear it apart until I found the problem, then put it back together. Just trying to pinpoint the problem because I don't have the time to tear it apart.
 
Well I'll have to do some serious checking this weekend. I'd like to get a second opinion, but can't get anyone in the Tampa area to take her for a spin to help me diagnose it. Wouldn't be that big of an issue if it weren't my daily driver....I'd just tear it apart until I found the problem, then put it back together. Just trying to pinpoint the problem because I don't have the time to tear it apart.

evilmonkeyMSP lives in the tampa area and i know i will be down there the end of may if you need a second opinion
 
I may have to get new shocks for the rear so is it cheaper to replace all four and not just two? Never bough shocks before (usually total car before they go bad) Also what is a good brand that will give me the same performance as stock, not lower the car too much, and not cost an assload.
 
so i was doing to few 3rd gear pulls to test my tune's A/F ratios and my car is missing.

I have the 1.8L coilpack setup w/ the 626 VC.

just driving normally its fine but when i really get on it..... It starts to miss and sound like a dam machine gun.

Any ideas?
 
I may have to get new shocks for the rear so is it cheaper to replace all four and not just two? Never bough shocks before (usually total car before they go bad) Also what is a good brand that will give me the same performance as stock, not lower the car too much, and not cost an assload.

Sell the MSP then.
 
I may have to get new shocks for the rear so is it cheaper to replace all four and not just two? Never bough shocks before (usually total car before they go bad) Also what is a good brand that will give me the same performance as stock, not lower the car too much, and not cost an assload.

Here are your options. For your rear struts, you're screwed with aftermarket if you want to keep your stock springs. Stock MSP rear struts have a higher spring perch location, and a shorter spring height because of it. This means you can't buy a regular Protege strut and use the MSP spring, you also can't buy a regular Protege spring and use it with the stock MSP strut. You either go OEM MSP replacement parts, regular Protege parts, or full coilovers.

1. Get stock replacement struts from Mazda. Very expensive and you're looking at spending close to $900 shipped from onlinemazdaparts.com.
2. Get the Tokico suspension kit for the Mazda Protege. These come with struts and lowering springs together. They will lower your MSP about 1/2" more than stock and be slightly stiffer. If you want to stick with non-adjustible struts, you can get the HPK247, which comes with Blue struts similar to stock. If you want adjustible, you can get ILK248, which comes with the adjustible Tokico Illumina struts.
3. Tokico Blue/Illumina struts paired with Ground Control coilovers
4. Full coilover system

For daily driving, your best bet will likely be #2 for the money.
Also, if you do replace your struts, any chance you could send me your blown stockers for the cost of shipping?
 

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