What are some mods I should get?!?!

oh alright. So Let- Would you suggest me doing the whole SRI and BPV since my car only has 300 miles. Also I will be doing a 9-12 hour drive to las vegas. So i dont know if it will play a role in messing with my break in process or something.

Gofast. Ill look into the shifter bearings and what not..

looks like im still set on my Forge BPV. SRI. Turboxs DP so far
 
now there is some solid been there done that advise from a guy who knows. thats the kind of advise you want to listen to on forums.

I ******* love this car, but then when engines start going and no one knows why.... even stock, it's bad. Looked into trading in but can't get what I owe on it. I'm gonna try to pay double on my payments to get it over and done with. Makes me sick though because it's my favorite car from all the ones I've owned in my life. Even people with new internals are blowing. Such a disappointment.

Oh, my bad, back on topic. Keep it simple. Motor mount inserts and solid shifter bushings are cheap and really enhance the driving experience. Add an intake, I say sri cause in my area we get snow and rain, and I personally know 3 people who hydrolocked motors, so I don't like CAIs generally. Add a new bpv or a blow-off in recirc to add some sound and maybe a pound or two in the lower gears. If you want some sound and a bit more power, test pipes are easy to install and easy to uninstall.

No matter what you do, I recommend a dashhawk and/or a boost gauge so you know what your car is doing. I have both. I set my warnings and knew what to look for, and now I will never drive without both of them.

If your dealer says you can mod, get IN WRITING what they say you can do. Just because mazda sells and intake doesnt mean they will warranty someone else's intake. Just watch your back, they are here to make money, not be your friend.

Don't let me get you down, just watch yourself. Cheers and enjoy the car!
(cheers)
 
RuZec, I started modding right after my first oil change at a thousand miles :D Go ahead, do it now

And if you are dead set on the downpipe, make sure its still warm when you pull the O2 sensor and be careful. It can takes you weeks to get a new one and they are over $500. Know a few people ::cough cough:: who got ****** that way, even with only 2 or 3 thousand miles on their cars
 
Ahh ok.. thanks for the input Lestat!

Yeah i guess ill hold off on the DP for a while.. What are some good maintenance steps I could do when I do start lightly modding my engine?
 
I agree with the others that a test/race pipe would be a beneficial mod that is easy to install/uninstall. I have even heard that if you choose to go the Cobb AP route, you can use the stage 2 maps without the DP.
 
would the Test pipe be street legal in las vegas and on base? once again im new to FI and platform
 
look up the catted dp from cp-e. I love cp-e and chose to use mostly there parts on there car after comparing some of there stuff with other companies. catback is not a big deal, but the dp is a huge deal and I've only heard and experienced great stuff with cp-e products. There DP in my opinion is the best out there.
 
I can pm if you want, but I think they block any sites that we try to post on this forum. check out cp-e's website, you can call the guys up too, they are really chill and they are never too busy to talk to anybody. CP-E has bent over backwards for me, I'm sure they would for you too.
 
yeah i would appreciate it if you did. But yea. i think im going to buy my forge BPV and COBB SRI in a couple weeks
 
you honestly believe that?? i gave you more credit than i should have then.

whatever. go prove to me that a downpipe causes an engine to blow. i think you'd be hard pressed to do that. i ran a downpipe for a little bit with no tune. no problems.
in fact, there are a lot of people who are running a downpipe with no tune. are you on the other boards?
you might get a lot more information from there, that is actually correct
 
hmm you two should make another thread arguing about what you believe. i juswant to see what each you think and whats your reasonings.
 
hmm you two should make another thread arguing about what you believe. i juswant to see what each you think and whats your reasonings.

if you get a dp, make sure it's catted, there are some people here that think that a non catted dp is what ruins turbo's. It's just not true, but a non catted car does stink pretty bad and the cat would get rid of most of that stink. If you get an intake, a turbo back exhause and a bpv, your car will feel completely different.
 
if you get a dp, make sure it's catted, there are some people here that think that a non catted dp is what ruins turbo's. It's just not true, but a non catted car does stink pretty bad and the cat would get rid of most of that stink. If you get an intake, a turbo back exhause and a bpv, your car will feel completely different.

One arguement that I have heard (and believe) is that non-catted downpipes don't cause you to smoke, but they do let you see the smoke. Your turbo can smoke but cats, even high flow ones, can burn up the smoke so that you don't see anything by the time it reaches the tailpipe.

On the stinking arguement, especially if you are going to run a vta bov, yes, it will stink. Buy something catted the first time instead of paying for a do-over.(dunno)
 
running vta makes it stink?
really?
running catless makes it stink.
whatever.
fyi guys, i'm not talking from my ass. i have a catless downpipe and i don't smoke and my engine is still in the car.
engines blow due to the open/closed loop transition. for a moment, the car runs lean...(from what i understand)
 
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