Crazee 4 tha darkside...

New O2 sensor on order from Mazdaspeed.

Where is it possible to mount both an oil cooler and a tranny cooler?

I am considering not blocking flow to radiator and minimize line lengths.
Could enough air circulate by removing fogs and opening up flow on either side? I've been looking for pics to gauge sizes for the coolers.
 
an option perhaps?
water cooling your oil WITHOUT airflow required
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1560/Mocal_Heat_Exchangers
MOC-A43-180.jpg


http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SET%20TOC-150
 
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OK, semi - update

new O2 sensor is here.
I am considering need the to swap back original exh cam gear.
This way we can experiment on fixing the skipping CPS pickup on the adj gears.
unless...we try and experiment while its still installed, hmmm?

I requested a mild freshen up of the turbo housing and mani before they go out to Swaintech for coatings. I plan on asking for the inside of mani to also be treated :D

So at this point I know I NEED to get an oil cooler and would like to get a tranny one too.

The question is real estate.

So I figure I will hunt for some pics like these:
http://www.altspace.com/nepoc/pages/PICT6540.html
to help plan placement.
I assume we could do some mock ups in the shop with the front fascia disassembled and measure for the lines we need. I am looking at the NYLON braid lines instead of SS. Unless it turns out too expensive!

Researching here too:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=259874

Can removing the fogs and cut a bigger opening been done?

Ofc I am going overboard, but I want to get everything ready for the turbo install (which is getting a rebuild)
so I ALSO want to include the Doc B pump upgrade / Ex PRV system and a thermostat in the oil cooler system too. oh and ports for temp senders
 
MARK%20I.JPG


I am leaning towards this as opposed to moving the coolers near the foglights. Less likely for me to damage in a collision?
I will have to get a CS rad to help out with the reduced air volume. ;)

Was there ever a diagram of the doc b set up?

I am thinking about how it should integrate with something like this..
  1. Filter spin-on adapter to
  2. relocate filter bracket
  3. filter
  4. thermostat
  5. return,
  6. line out into cooler
  7. and turbo,
  8. cooler return out to turbo,
  9. turbo return drain
I need to assemble the specs for line and fittings.
I think the oil filter is M20 x 1.5
What size lines are approriate? idk yet.
 
Hey, I've got a sort of random question for you: are you still running the Twiggy cams and what cam gears are you running? I'm about to pick up a set of the FI cams and some Kasmankk Cam gears (only going to use the intake side) and I'm a little concerned of the driveability effects.

Oh, just so I can say I contributed I would say mount two 12" slim fans on the back of the radiator (if they'll fit) and then put the oil and/or trans coolers on the front of the A/C condensor - preferrably above the bumper support.
 
Im running the same turbo, ur gonna max the injectors out at 6psi with

the stock injectors so be careful not run run any higher than that.

Wouldnt hurt either to replace the fuel pump with a Walbro too.
 
yah note taken. I was eyeing some 440s and a walbro.
I will be watching the duty cycle on the AEM

As far as the kasman gears and all,
I'm still where I was back when I made this update:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4038193&postcount=58
My mechanic hooked up an oscilloscope (sp?) to the CPS and saw occasional signal loss. I think we are going to attempt some different screws in the cam gear pick up.
If I remember, this is supposed to be a hall sensor, right?

I am having Codes that MAY be related to the signal drop offs (misfires). (notcool)
I don't think it has anything to do with my cams tho.

I may try the stocker if we need it.
 
yah note taken. I was eyeing some 440s and a walbro.
I will be watching the duty cycle on the AEM

As far as the kasman gears and all,
I'm still where I was back when I made this update:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4038193&postcount=58


I may try the stocker if we need it.
Ah yeah, that issue associated with the CPS and the exhaust cam. IIRC there are no sensors on the intake cam, correct? You should be able to get away with only using the intake cam gear. Although you won't get as much as from using both cam gears I swear I remembered reading once that most gains came from adjusting the intake cam on FI engines.

So the cams are just fine though? Don't you have the N/A cams?
 
Correct, none on intake.
I will be wanting to adjust both to use my NA cams for FI (11 deg overlap) when we resolve the pickup issue.
The Cams sing at 5000 rpm! and up

OK, back to the oil lines/cooler
Need to avoid Fragola and B&M.
Considering Derale and Russel, Earls.

I guess it would go more like this:

Filter spin-on adapter line out goes to the relocated filter bracket/filter.
Line out of filter goes to cooler w/thermostat and return to spin on port.
Line out to turbo from a fitting (somewhere) and return drain into pan.

Now should the PRV system run best integrated with the relocate and / or cooler OR should it be isolated?
Where can I economize the # and amount of lines needed.
 
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Filter spin-on adapter line out goes to the relocated filter bracket/filter.
Line out of filter goes to cooler w/thermostat and return to spin on port.
Line out to turbo from a fitting (somewhere) and return drain into pan.

Now should the PRV system run best integrated with the relocate and / or cooler OR should it be isolated?
Where can I economize the # and amount of lines needed.
Have you tried PM'ing Doc B? I had a decent discussion with him about oil coolers a while back. I believe the PRV system is integrated with the filter relocation and any oil cooling system. The only issue is finding a plate with enough ports. I wanted to go with the adjustable system as well but I think it's just a little too much for a daily-driven street car. I think I'm just going to stick with a Swaintech-coated and blueprinted oil pump.
 
I hear ya
I doubt I NEED the oil cooler at low boost anyhow

But yes, I have PMd DocB/mp3racer and posted in the thread too.

I have always wanted to do the filter relocate, but i dont want any crappy adapters.

as far as u just doin the oil pump coated, the whole point is to
disable the stock internal pressure relief valve.

when the stock internal relief valve is disabled, then u need to replace it with some other pressure release / return path too.

cool?
 
Yeah, I follow the purpose - I just think it's a little much for anything I'd need (only shooting for 300 whp). I do need an oil cooler however. I just installed my oil temperature gauge about 2 weeks ago and I've already seen temps upwards of 250 degree F. I just need to find a sandwich plate with -10 AN fittings and then some -10 AN to 1/8 NPT fittings for my gauge senders.
 
Thanks guys!

Moved my oil cooler discussion to here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123679483

New O2 sensor is in, ECU reset, headlight replaced.
Lets see how long until the CEL shows.

Synchronic BOV has arrived.
Ordering up a threesome of Dynomax mufflers :D

We are toying with replacing the adj cam gears pickups with other magnetic screws. CPS is supposedly a Hall effect style sensor.
 
In all seriousness you should look into getting the front bumper from Accolade.
Plenty of airflow on that biznitch.....lol

maz03p5rs01.jpg
 
^^^ LOL I've contemplated getting that kit many, many times. I like the lines but that whole in the front is just too damned big! Even my huge turbolife FMIC won't fill that. But you are right; that would leave lots of space to put stuff. I wonder if it would be possible for a body shop the close up that hole in the front a little...?
 
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