What have you done to your P5 today?

ran over pieces of a car from an accident and chipped my car and rim... little but so annoyed!! going to fast to stop completely and avoid the crap on the highway plus they were in both lanes so i couldnt choose another lane
 
^Sucks man.

I've been lucky so far, been able to avoid everything except a huge chunk of a truck tire that shredded. Luckily that was flat, but it made a funny sound. I check underneath and no damage though.

I want JDM tails.

I don't want the MSP lip. I like my fogs.

A turbo would be nice though.

Lookin good InFlames
 
just ordered a exedy OEM clutch and the fidanza 7lb flywheel!!!!!!

i will be on a cruise all next week, so i had the parts delivered to my best friends house, and they should be here when i return.

so stoked
 
up early for sunrise...intitled "morning glory" ;)
 

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I just spent the last 8 hours succesfully changing out ONE strut in the rear. Now it's three HP's and one stock. Long story short, dremmel wasn't gonna work, had to go to mazda to buy new endlinks, had to go to Lowe's to buy reciprocating saw metal blade, put everything back together just to find out I FORGOT TO PUT ON THE ******* BUMPSTOP, take it apart again, place bumpstop, put it back together, cleanup.
 
Sure won't. Saturday morning goes on the last strut along with the new MX-6 rear strut. Then I just have to find time to replace the front motor mount. I say I have to find time since I will have to cut the bolt off since it's seemingly ******* welded on there. No amount of PB blaster was able to free it and I ended up stripping the crap out of the nut. Anyway, I got a brand new nut and bolt from mazda and the awr will be going on as soon as the other strut's done and I have time. Now after that, I only have to order my seats and I'm done. Wow, I never thought I would be done with all this stuff.
 
I just spent the last 8 hours succesfully changing out ONE strut in the rear. Now it's three HP's and one stock. Long story short, dremmel wasn't gonna work, had to go to mazda to buy new endlinks, had to go to Lowe's to buy reciprocating saw metal blade, put everything back together just to find out I FORGOT TO PUT ON THE ******* BUMPSTOP, take it apart again, place bumpstop, put it back together, cleanup.

dude i did 2 fronts first then i did the rear cause i let the endlinks soak in PB
but ended up gettin new endlinks cause it all stripped and the stud was spinnin too
spend 2days doing it
 
I just spent the last 8 hours succesfully changing out ONE strut in the rear. Now it's three HP's and one stock. Long story short, dremmel wasn't gonna work, had to go to mazda to buy new endlinks, had to go to Lowe's to buy reciprocating saw metal blade, put everything back together just to find out I FORGOT TO PUT ON THE ******* BUMPSTOP, take it apart again, place bumpstop, put it back together, cleanup.

heh, I've been there... though 8 hours for 1 is a bit much. I've never had problems w/ a good cutting wheel on the dremmel though. Sure it takes a couple minutes but I got the thing for free. I'm not gonna buy a sawzall just for this lol. So far I think I've had to cut 10 endlinks with it on other peoples' cars, none on mine. PB blaster ftw :D. I've done 1 car I had to cut all 4, then 2 cars where I cut 3 LOL

With 3 of us who had half a clue of what we were doing, we actually put new springs on the P5 a few weeks ago. From pulling it into the garage to pulling it out (like the good catholic boy that I am) of the garage was almost exactly 1 hour. It was awesome LOL
 
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Yea the only problem was that I didn't have a good cutting wheel and that's why I had so many problems. The 8 hours takes into account me having to go to the stealership to buy new endlinks since they were the only ones who had them, having to take the strut back off just to put the damn bumpstop on, and a bunch of other random s***. I should be able to do the other side in about an hour or so now that I know what to do (crosses fingers). I actually cut the bracket that holds the endlinks to the strut lol cause I couldnt fit the saw under the car to get a straight shot at the bolt. Oh and my uncle helped me a lot cause he's cool like that... and cause it was his garage lol.

EDIT: oh and this is the first strut I've actually changed out myself.
 
I actually cut the bracket that holds the endlinks to the strut lol cause I couldnt fit the saw under the car to get a straight shot at the bolt.

Here's what I found is the easiest way to do it, w/ a dremmel, causing the least amount of damage:

1: With the strut still attached to the chassis @ the top, cut the endlink in the middle somewhere
2: Remove the strut, put it on a work bench somewhere if you can.
3. Cut straight down the middle of the stud, basically cutting the nut in half.
4. Once you've got most of the way down, so you don't start cutting into the bracket, stop and basically use the flange of the nut as a guide to cut the top of the nut off horizontally

By the time you've done that, the rest of the nut should come off pretty easily (IE: you can thread it off by hand), and the last time I did it, I got maybe a nick or 2 on the endlink tab. Sure, it takes a little time, but I'm not risking the structural integrity of an endlink tab on someone else's car, much less mine.
 
Thanks man but those struts are actually going to get junked so I'm just gonna cut straight thru those mofos. lol. If I were keeping the stock struts and selling them (if they were still good) I would definitely do that.
 
Ordered new OEM rear endlinks. I can't keep the AWRs quiet with the Progress rear bar. I'm also thinking about picking up a used MSP rear swaybar and trying that out with the AWRs endlinks - at least the MSP bar can be made so it is parallel with the ground. Now whether the angle reduction counters the loss of swaybar diameter is a different story. I'm not really sure which is more important; location relative to the ground or overall diameter and stiffness.
 
Ordered new OEM rear endlinks. I can't keep the AWRs quiet with the Progress rear bar. I'm also thinking about picking up a used MSP rear swaybar and trying that out with the AWRs endlinks - at least the MSP bar can be made so it is parallel with the ground. Now whether the angle reduction counters the loss of swaybar diameter is a different story. I'm not really sure which is more important; location relative to the ground or overall diameter and stiffness.

Both. I mean, a stiffer bar will compensate for some pre-load, but why can't you get the progress bar level?
 
I have the progress rear bar and awr endlinks with no problems/noise. Mines pretty level as far as I can tell, how far is your car lowered?
 
Both. I mean, a stiffer bar will compensate for some pre-load, but why can't you get the progress bar level?
The control arms are in the way. The Progress bar is the exact same shape as the stock bar just a lot thicker whereas the MSP bar has shorter "ends" so the endlinks are shorter that would allow the bar to be parallel to the ground. I have the AWRs adjusted so the bar is as level as it can be without the endlinks hitting the control arms (about a 1-2 mm gap). Basically with the stock/Progress bars the endlinks are above/behind the control arms whereas with the MSP bar they are in in front
 
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