MS3 Ignition Coil Mod

but jesus christ...then I would have to go back to the stock intake... that would be my only option...as for now after over 100miles...i haven't thrown another code, but the sputtering during idle is still there. Thats why I do think its a coil problem
 
proper diagnostic procedure should be followed and if you work for mazda you should know due to the pita documentation needed for warranty purposes now a days. i hate it. but seeing howhis dealer didn;t want to go anyfurther than a maf, he;s down to doing it himself or another technician. i say start stupid. pcv, egr stuck, that stuff.
 
jville said:
proper diagnostic procedure should be followed and if you work for mazda you should know due to the pita documentation needed for warranty purposes now a days. i hate it. but seeing howhis dealer didn;t want to go anyfurther than a maf, he;s down to doing it himself or another technician. i say start stupid. pcv, egr stuck, that stuff.
Click to expand...

Im just trying to help.
 
Thank you Jville for the info... I am sure this will come in handy. Although I am going to try another dealer and see where that goes. I know for a fact the work on modded cars considering one of my friends...just a little far from. Hopefully everything will work out. Just have to wait for another code. Or do you think I should just go in with the sputter...???
 
yea me 2. but you coming behind every one of my post playing captain obvious doesn't help anyone. hes asked where he should start. The best (cheapest) way to go about it without the dealer involvement is to start simple list i posted. I dunno about everyone else but throwing parts at something is no a habit i like to practice, plus it can be REALLY expensive. but no worries. (drinks)
 
the dtcs being set is always helpful when you go in for diagnostics. but since you know the codes it should be alright.
 
ericrapp said:
If I had a coil pack issue wouldn't I be able to ' read ' that in the plugs? Thanks
Click to expand...

not neccessarily, unles it was going on for quite some time. Direct injetion and extra pressure from the turbo tends to keep the plugs fairly clean (theoreticaly)
 
jville said:
yea me 2. but you coming behind every one of my post playing captain obvious doesn't help anyone. hes asked where he should start. The best (cheapest) way to go about it without the dealer involvement is to start simple list i posted. I dunno about everyone else but throwing parts at something is no a habit i like to practice, plus it can be REALLY expensive. but no worries. (drinks)
Click to expand...

these engines do not have problems with stuff like the pcv, and egr yet, especially if they have low miles.

Also if you want to replace the pcv, good luck its about a 3 hour job, thats if you even have the tools to get to the bolts which im sure he doesn't.

Yes i understand about saving money, but another thing you want to save is time, and im telling you what needs to be replaced to fix the problems he is having. Not everyone wants to drive around with misfires replacing everything one by one until its fixed. Also you are killing your cat(if you still have one that is) with the misfires
 
When i pulled the stock plugs to replace with the iridiums at twenty thou or so, the electrodes looked o k but I did have a good bit of carbon on the ceramic portion. I took a look at the iridiums after 1000 or so and they were very clean. But I did reduce the gap. There must be a way to test bench the coil packs for resistance and such to prove them out?
 
i know that the one mazda dealership around he is employed by a bunch of dilholes and are really b****y when it comes to mods while the one opposite side of town are really cool and leanient about it. just depends i guess.
 
the proper way to check your coils is to use a scope. it is a little more of a PITA with top mount, but that is how i find that a coil is going bad. the only problem is i bet you don't own one.
 
knowledge007 said:
wtf is a scope...
Click to expand...

An oscilloscope is used as a fault diagnostic instrument for electronic devices. It has a display unit with a moving dot (trace) that gives a representation of the voltage versus time for an electronic device. An oscilloscope creates a visible two-dimensional graph of one or more electrical potential differences. The horizontal axis of the display typically represents time, which makes the instrument useful for displaying periodic signals. The vertical axis usually shows voltage.

A typical oscilloscope is shaped like a rectangular box which has a small screen with several input connectors, control knobs and buttons on the front panel. To aid in the measurement, a grid called the graticule is drawn on the face of the screen. Each square in the graticule is known as a division. In its most basic mode, an oscilloscope repeatedly draws a horizontal line, which is called the trace, across the middle of the screen from left to right.
 
Well, thanks for the info but the car has had all diagnostics run and everything seems to be fine. My mech has an idea that it could be in fact a bad coil and or a dirty throttle body. I work at the Port of Miami and yes my car doesn sit at the port for days at a time since I drive the company car during the week. It could be a possibility, but we are going the coil route first... This of course is to find out what the sputtering during idle is coming from??? Other than that everything is good, little by little I am loving my baby again.
 
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