power loss/loud sucking noise... help???

If you can blow through your WGA vac line then it is bad. You should not be able to blow through or hear air coming out. Replace your actuator right away.

By boost leak i mean one of your intercooler pipes is cracked (or the bpv nipple pipes come off they are just glued on could be a loose coupler just anything that could cause a leak in air pressure) you have to find which one by pressurizing your system. Take off intake and put boost leak detector on the turbo intake side then plug the BPV tube and pressurize your intercooler pipes.
Mine split down the seam in the middle on the crinkled part on the pipe from SMIC out to throttlebody.


I assume you both are running stock. If not please in future posts please let us know what mods have been done to the car.

And yes you should get a boost/vac gauge as your first mod as well :p
 
I just have CAI and 3inch exhuast but it started to happen a month after I
installed my cai then the loud sucking noise began....

also I have a blitz turbo timer with boost warning option when I hit around 5k in gear
the boost warning will start beeping it never did that before the noise....


\
If you can blow through your WGA vac line then it is bad. You should not be able to blow through or hear air coming out. Replace your actuator right away.

By boost leak i mean one of your intercooler pipes is cracked (or the bpv nipple pipes come off they are just glued on could be a loose coupler just anything that could cause a leak in air pressure) you have to find which one by pressurizing your system. Take off intake and put boost leak detector on the turbo intake side then plug the BPV tube and pressurize your intercooler pipes.
Mine split down the seam in the middle on the crinkled part on the pipe from SMIC out to throttlebody.


I assume you both are running stock. If not please in future posts please let us know what mods have been done to the car.

And yes you should get a boost/vac gauge as your first mod as well :p
 
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OK thank you.

^ listen to what i have previously said.

1 if you can blow through your WGA vac line IT IS BAD!(Repleace this right away the can cause serious damage including a blown motor.)

2 Always tripple check your coupler clamps.

3 From what you described i am almost without a doubt sure that you do have a leak most likely on your pressurized pipes(the ones that come off the turbo to the side mount intercooler and the one that goes from the side mount intercooler to the throttle body.) However it could also be your intake piping.

Listen to me and try the boost leak detector i have had my car since june the motor blew 5 days after i got it and it took almost 4 months to get it back. I have nearly read every post regarding the MSP in these forums i have had the car in the shop on several occasions(several different mazdas non mazdaspeed ones and mazdaspeed certed ones.) for sometimes a week plus. I finaly got the ass and started doing my own work and have learned so much.

I am in no way saying that i am a pro nor a mechanic. But i have had just about every single problem that has ever been mentioned here on the forums about this car.
(Right down to the trunk clunk, dead stereo deck, dead subwoofer you name it i have probably had it (sad1))
 
got it - will do tomorrow morning...can I get that pressurized kit from pepboys etc.? also to let you know the dealership recently replaced my turbo and gave me a new one....
 
Sounds like you have a combination of a bad WGA and a boost leak that could have been caused by over boosting.

It does not take much to split those factory pipes.


Definatly do the WGA before anything else and you should probably stay out of boost if you have to drive it before getting it fixed. (I just shift below 3k and never punch it.)
 
got it - will do tomorrow morning...can I get that pressurized kit from pepboys etc.? also to let you know the dealership recently replaced my turbo and gave me a new one....

Call them up and ask if they replaced your WGA too.
Sorry no pressurizer kit.
Look on google and learn how to make a boost leak detector.
They are not something you can normaly buy.
I have seen a shop online that sells them but i cannot find the site.

Its really simple and cheap to make. I just bought a 3in coupler with a 2.5 reducer to fit on the turbo(it could work with just a 2.5 coupler if you can find one.

Then I capped one end and put a tire stem in it.
Then tighten it onto the intake side of the turbo and pressurized it through the tire stem with about 10-15 psi.
 
dont think I am retardit lol but is there a pic where I can see the vac line for
the WGA



Sounds like you have a combination of a bad WGA and a boost leak that could have been caused by over boosting.

It does not take much to split those factory pipes.


Definatly do the WGA before anything else and you should probably stay out of boost if you have to drive it before getting it fixed. (I just shift below 3k and never punch it.)
 
boost gauge is in. vac is at about 5-7 in idle and boost is around 8 in 2nd gear until the car starts to buck. that vac sounds a little low to me, what is the normal vac pressure while at idle in these cars??
 
boost gauge is in. vac is at about 5-7 in idle and boost is around 8 in 2nd gear until the car starts to buck. that vac sounds a little low to me, what is the normal vac pressure while at idle in these cars??

Silver if you can blow into the actuator line it is bad.
Your vacuum is terrible, normal idle should be 20-22hg
Stock boost should be around 5-6.5psi
8 is too high Firstly replace your WGA that should take care of that maybe not completely because(vac leaks can cause boost leaks and vice versa and 2 components in our turbo system operate on this.)
1 Vac controls BPV
2 Boost controls WGA

So After the WGA this is all i can say for now until you take care of the actuator and tell me how it is after.

But
You definitely have a serious leak.
You need to check ALL of your vac lines and if they are all good and hooked up right then need to do compression check also your intake mani could have cracks or loose bolts or bad gaskets. Could be a several other things if all the lines are good and i would get it to a mechanic stat.
 
dont think I am retardit lol but is there a pic where I can see the vac line for
the WGA

wgatq5.jpg


This is the WGA it should the the only vac line coming off of it.

This line should lead to a T with the other end going to the BPV and the source off of the intake mani.

Disconnect the WGA vac line at the T and blow into it, if you can blow through or hear air rushing out it is bad.(or you may just have a split vac line check this aswell)

If it is bad then replace it, if this still has not fixed your issue then you also have a boost leak.

Be patient guys these cars are a PITA stock. Your best bet is to keep modding and never look back.
 
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ok i checked out the WGAs at that site, and suggestion on which of the two would be the better one to get. Im not shelling out that kind of money for the oem part so its either between the ATP or Forge one. I'd rather go with the cheaper of the two since money is kind of tight right now but would fork out the extra cash if i felt it would be much more benificial.
 
oh yea did u try disconnecting the exhaust right before ur cat yet?? that can cause an issue with vacuum idle...if u snap the throttle in nuetral and u get positive pressure right away thats a good posiblilty (if it cant leave the exhaust itll come back out)...also i had a n/a protege be real sluggish..relpaced wires and plugs and that was all better...ur maf can be giving the ecc mixed signal causing ur engine to run wierd which can cause a vacuum issue...all i kno is that if ur idle vacuum is 5-7in hg thats is an issue...if u have a decent boost leak take the filter off and cover it with ur hand..itll start sucking form the leak area...im pushin for that clogged cat
 
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the only mod i have right now is the Perrin SRI. other than that it is completely stock. No i havent had a chance to take the exhaust off before the cat yet but as soon as i can get it on a lift i'll check that out.
 
Also, check the stock intercooler pipes. There is a tube that goes from your BPV to your intake and intercooler pipe. The nipple that sticks out of the intercooler pipe, that connects to the BPV snapped on me, and caused major boost leak.
 
I try this and when I blew into it there is pressure the bad thing now is
I have to replace that line it broke when pulling it off... now I have tape
on it and I still have the problem.



wgatq5.jpg


This is the WGA it should the the only vac line coming off of it.

This line should lead to a T with the other end going to the BPV and the source off of the intake mani.

Disconnect the WGA vac line at the T and blow into it, if you can blow through or hear air rushing out it is bad.(or you may just have a split vac line check this aswell)

If it is bad then replace it, if this still has not fixed your issue then you also have a boost leak.

Be patient guys these cars are a PITA stock. Your best bet is to keep modding and never look back.
 
Silver if you can blow into the actuator line it is bad.

So im having similar problems and tried blowing into my WGA and I could. If I can blow any amount of air in does it mean its bad? Does it matter how hard I blow (LOL that sounds so damn funny) or should it never let air in even if I blow my hardest? (Thats what she said) Just want to make sure its bad before I take it into the dealer and tell its bad after they told me nothing at all was wrong with my car... Carmax is retarted btw.
 
So im having similar problems and tried blowing into my WGA and I could. If I can blow any amount of air in does it mean its bad? Does it matter how hard I blow (LOL that sounds so damn funny) or should it never let air in even if I blow my hardest? (Thats what she said) Just want to make sure its bad before I take it into the dealer and tell its bad after they told me nothing at all was wrong with my car... Carmax is retarted btw.

Yeah its bad it is not supposed to let any air pas because it is a diaphram and when you are boosting the vac lines have pressure now hence the boost and the diaphram in the WGA fills and opens the WG allowing it to cap off boost.
 

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