GP Light Weight Protege pulleys

[bazooka joe]

what he said, waiting patiently!!!

 

[Brach]

what he said, waiting patiently!!!

Patients will pay off. Thank you to those that have been patient.

 

[bazooka joe]

Patients will pay off. Thank you to those that have been patient.

good things come to those that wait!!

 

[Brach]

good things come to those that wait!!

They do. Just wait and see

 

[AzteCypher]

Do these fit the 1.6L Protege.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

is there anyway to install these, specially the PS pulley, without having all of those tools? such as pulley puller, hydrolic press, and impact wrench? I really don't want to pay someone to do this, but I also don't want to start the job and not be able to finish it because I don't have the right tools and mess something up. Thanks in advance.

Just did all 3 of mine. Fortunately I have a neighbor that saved the day for me. He had the impact to get the alt nut off. It came off the new alt I bought so easy that a strap wrench & 1/2 inch drive ratchet with 24mm socket would do it. I had the strap wrench we used. Not a mark on the original pulley. He also had the 2 jaw puller that pulled the ps right off. I used an allen head bolt in the shaft so the puller nub would stay centered. Work like magic. I did not bake or hammer the new one to get it back on. Simply used some antiseize & 3 different length bolts & a fat washer to pull it back on flush using a 3/8 ratchet with 12mm socket. Worked fine. BTW, I didn't disconnect any ps lines either, just loosened the line connections to the body & undid the res so it could move allowing me access to the front of the pump after taking it off the bracket. Of course the wp is easiest, just loosen bolts as has been said before taking the belt off. The biggest weight difference surprisingly was the alt pulley. The others were obviously lighter but not as drastic of a difference. The bitchest part of all of this was getting the alt out up top without disassembling a bunch of s***. The magic key is to remove the adj bracket-1 bolt & flipping, twisting, wedging & tugging past the pwr steering line. You need to pull the vacuum canister & cc out of the way too of course. Seems like a lot but really not. If your alt isn't shot then you can just pull it out of bracket, point it down & do what you need from under the car. Working with it off the car seems almost worth moving all the other s*** tho. I work under the car only if completely necessary without a lift. Pics forthcoming...............

 

[Not Jo3L]

brach do you have approximate date that the crank pulleys will ship?

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Pics, huge pics............................

http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/100_1215.jpg
http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/100_1217.jpg
http://www.msprotege.com/members/i12drivemyMP5/100_1221.jpg

 

[Maxx Mazda]

No A/C pulley for u?

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

No A/C pulley for u?

Who makes those? Not taking clutch off AC anyway. I'll just have to do without that extra 1 hp. I'll take out the spare tire to make up the difference, lol. Those were mid install with only pulleys in place. New alternator was still in the box with new pulley on, wasn't on car yet. It's all together & been all tested last week going to & from work. No probs.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Good luck changing the alternator. You need to pull your midpipe and drop the subframe.

 

[bazooka joe]

brach do you have approximate date that the crank pulleys will ship?

(dunno)

 

[twistiert]

i didnt have to drop the subframe or nething just unbolted the alt. angled it down and buzzed it off with the impact easiest one to do I thought

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

No subframe removal necessary. From post above.........The bitchest part of all of this was getting the alt out up top without disassembling a bunch of s***. The magic key is to remove the adj bracket-1 bolt & flipping, twisting, wedging & tugging past the pwr steering line. You need to pull the vacuum canister & cc out of the way too of course. Seems like a lot but really not. If your alt isn't shot then you can just pull it out of bracket, point it down & do what you need from under the car.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

No subframe removal necessary. From post above.........The bitchest part of all of this was getting the alt out up top without disassembling a bunch of s***. The magic key is to remove the adj bracket-1 bolt & flipping, twisting, wedging & tugging past the pwr steering line. You need to pull the vacuum canister & cc out of the way too of course. Seems like a lot but really not. If your alt isn't shot then you can just pull it out of bracket, point it down & do what you need from under the car.

I unbolted mine, and my midpipe, then loosened two subframe bolts so I could get it out. This is on my LX mind you, the P5 sits in storage most of the year lol!

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

What would be different from P5 to LX alternatorremovalwise? I prefer working from topside unless absolutely necessary due to no lift & using jackstands for that kind of action.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I dunno. Do you have cruise? My cruise module got in the way, so I did it all from undernieth.

 

[Not Jo3L]

What would be different from P5 to LX alternatorremovalwise? I prefer working from topside unless absolutely necessary due to no lift & using jackstands for that kind of action.

I dont think you want to work on it topside...best way is to get it underneath the car by taking it off and turning it sideways to get at it with the wrench.

 

[ForceFed]

I dunno. Do you have cruise? My cruise module got in the way, so I did it all from undernieth.

Speaking of Cruise...Does yours work with the turbo setup?
I am tying to decide to keep or kill it.

 

[djarkitek]

you can get the alternator out through the top as long as you remove all the little things to the left including the cruise and such.it's a lot easier than anythnig else as all those little things just just a bolt away from release anyways...