talked to split second about their afc with NA Tuning!!!!

[jamesk]

ok im going to install my split second afc in my car next week after i get my inspection, and the guy on the phone and me figured out what i should do for my map. i told him how the car runs and what afr the car is at.

i told him that the car runs stoicheometry all the way intill 4000 rpms, then the car has too rich of ratios of 11.1 and so forth.

he advised me to leave the car alone all the way up to open loop (4000 rpms) because unless i am very drastic in power than stock, there is no real point in messing with closed loop.

he said after 4000 rpms, i should lean out the car gradually. he said roughly, when you go down a tenth of the values you put in the map, the afr's drop about 3 to 4 tenths. for example, if you have a 11.0:1 ratio of the value of 10's on the map, if you change the value to 9.9, your new afr's should be around 11.3:1 to 11.4:1.

him and me agreed on the upgrades i have that i should feel a good change in power increase when these ratios are gradually leaned out. wish me luck!

 

[ProtoType5]

Great to hear you're finally getting around to this...I've been kicking myself for backing out from the Split-second N/A deal about 6 months ago...Should be a lot of room for improvement up in that top end...

Please dyno's if possible...

 

[Tom03es]

FYI- on my dyno chart, I start to go pig rich at about 3250 rpms (might be because I have an auto though).

Even if you don't tune your closed loop, don't you still have to enter numbers for those cells in the map?

ECU tuning is a totally new thing to me.

Definitely keep us updated.

 

[ProtoType5]

On the SS AFC the number 10 in the cell is neutral and will not change the signal to the computer..Therefor, he'll have 10's in all the cells up to 4K...

 

[808MP5]

subbin for more info

 

[Tom03es]

On the SS AFC the number 10 in the cell is neutral and will not change the signal to the computer..Therefor, he'll have 10's in all the cells up to 4K...

Oh yeah- that does sound familiar now. Thanks.

 

[Tom03es]

And another thing- do you only go into open loop at 100% wide open throttle (WOT)? Because I rarely go WOT. But I do accelerate such that my engine regularly sees north of 5000 rpms (again- automagic transmission).

 

[magnumP5]

I find this interesting on a none turbo setup. I assume you're switching into open loop fuel control 'at RPM' so at like 4k the AFC takes over? FWIW, in my experience tuning with the AFC what you were told about the tenth adjustments seems right on. Good luck with this, I'll definitely be watching.

 

[jamesk]

i talked to ken, and he pretty muched confirmed the guy from splitsecond.

im only going to lean out full throttle (0 atmosphere pressure) and probably a couple rows before also.

this is a pretty simple map, so ill keep everybody updated.

 

[niky]

Hmmm... interesting info.

We've found that my car (OBDI, yeah, but sounds like a similar issue) keeps flickering between open and closed loop at low load from idle all the way up to 3000 rpm... possibly because of the issues discussed here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123693682

but we've seen some positive gains at 3000 or 3500... you may want to experiment with starting at 3500 rpm... see if that causes any running issues... instead of 4000 rpm.

3500 rpm is really important... for me, at least... since 1st - 2nd drops you down to about 3600 rpm on the upshift.

Man, I've been fighting this issue for nearly three months, and finally two threads come along that shed some light on it! Thank you mazda forums!

 

[Sleepy]

niky, have you tried simply using a relay to disconect the O2S and force it open loop whenever you want? eg 50% TPS. Works for my OBD1 Australian car. Never had a CEL.

 

[jamesk]

my car in 3rd gear hits open loop at 5000 rpm and in 4th gear hits it at 4000 rpm??? wtf????? what do i do?????

 

[jamesk]

this is what im going to do, since my car hits open loop late, im going to richen it up a little bit around 3500 rpms to 4000 rpms, so cells of 10.2. then around 4500 rpms to 5000 rpms, im going to start leaning it out with cells of 9.7, and after 5000 rpm to redline im going to lean out the car with solid cells of 9.5 to redline.

what does everybody think?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i think you'll be fine as long as you keep your eyes on that wideband. you'll need to make several passes in every gear between changes to make sure its good across the board.

 

[jamesk]

im am happy to say that my car is offically AFCed!!!!!!!!!!!

at first, it was not working. i made a map for it and uploaded it and my car had idleing problems, but i then uploaded the stock map it comes with and that work fine. the map is all the way neutral intill you reach boost, but a na car does not reach boost so that map works fine.

i used my map the first time and made a couple changes to it, and now my car is running perfect ratios at wot between 12.7 to 13.2. the car pulls hard and it was worth all the research in putting this in.

the afc, single runner intake manifold, and fidanza flywheel is the best combination, and i love it.

id like to say thanks to ken with all his input and the forums for all the input. ill get a video on my car on and show everyone how quick this car is.

 

[Tom03es]

Sweet!

So what all is needed in order to run a Splitsecond?

Shopping list:
Splitsecond
wideband 02 sensor
A/F gauge

Anything else?

I'm a newbie when it comes to ECU tuning.

 

[808MP5]

Sweet!

So what all is needed in order to run a Splitsecond?

Shopping list:
Splitsecond
wideband 02 sensor
A/F gauge

Anything else?

I'm a newbie when it comes to ECU tuning.

bump for more info a posibly a How-to

 

[ProtoType5]

Take your arse to the dyno....Good to hear it's working well for you, makes me sad about not following throught with this myself...

 

[jamesk]

my map is giving me perfect airfuel ratios, but i do have alot of mods that free up everything, but it should be the same for everything else.

all you need is a wideband gauge and the splitsecond afc. the wideband comes with the sensor. im gonna have a video up by tommorow to show the crap.

you should also get a mp3 ecu, its not neccesary but important. for NA cars, the big tuning part is timming. after timming is tuned, it is important to have good afr's as well. just good afr's with no timming adjustments, idk how much of a gain would be there, but then again, our cars are rich as crap!

installation is the same as the mazdaspeed protege. there is a how to but for some dumb reason, no mods wanted to sticky it. you have to search for it.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

im am happy to say that my car is offically AFCed!!!!!!!!!!!

at first, it was not working. i made a map for it and uploaded it and my car had idleing problems, but i then uploaded the stock map it comes with and that work fine. the map is all the way neutral intill you reach boost, but a na car does not reach boost so that map works fine.

i used my map the first time and made a couple changes to it, and now my car is running perfect ratios at wot between 12.7 to 13.2. the car pulls hard and it was worth all the research in putting this in.

the afc, single runner intake manifold, and fidanza flywheel is the best combination, and i love it.

id like to say thanks to ken with all his input and the forums for all the input. ill get a video on my car on and show everyone how quick this car is.

this is great news! glad to hear you are happy with the results. if you can, please email me the map you are using.