boost on stock engine.

[shane02pro5]

I love my Hiboost kit! I upgraded to the HKS blow off valve. You will need a clutch upgrade, I started slipping right away. 2.5" Midpipe and catback exhaust and some stiff front and rear motor mounts will help eliminate the wheel hop. You do have a 5spd right? I don't advice you order directly from Hiboost there have been a few recent complaints about waiting too long to get their stuff. I didn't have this problem 5 years ago when I got mine!

Check out
Protegegarage
Speedcircuit
*************

They are all vendors for Hiboost and have great customer service praise!!

By the way the kit comes with a FMIC and its not too large. I am about to upgrade mine for high boost. Also comes with a Haltech F10x for fuel controll and is among the best options!

 

[mx-p5]

Yeah, my P5 (blue one) is a 5speed. And, I've already got a Magnaflow catback on. I even got quoted $200 to have a local exhaust shop custom fab a midpipe with magnaflow hiflow cat. So, I might do little bits at a time.

As stated earlier, as soon as my bike sells, I'm ordering Esliper springs and Tokico blue struts and AWR front motor mounts, TWM full short shift kit, so, I'm working towards the turbo. Just doing suspension first.

I didn't add in a clutch though. Hmm. Def. something that needs replaced though.

I do plan on ordering from Ken at ProtegeGarage. So, other than a BOV, the kit's ready to rock with good components?

Tylor

 

[icespeed]

np!

The great thing about the hi-boost kit is that everything is already done for you. It comes with everything you would need to double the hp. All you do is drill a hole here, add a line there and it's pretty much plug and play.

I will say this, I am not familiar with the details of the kit. Some things I would be concerned with are things like, "Is it an external or internal wastegate?", "What kind of BOV does it come with?". If you want a "sleeper", you definately do NOT want an external wastegate. I'm sure that other owners of the Hi-boost kit can tell you more about those kind of things.

You will want to do different things to the rest of the engine, down the road, to get a few hp here and there, while maintaining the integrity of the engine. Bigger exhaust for better "breathing" and the like. Over a long enough timeline, though, the engine will fail. Something to prepare yourself for and consider when spending this kind of cash.

Ask yourself how long do you want to keep this car? How much time and money are you willing to invest in it? Do you want to do things now that will allow you to upgrade in the future?

Really sit down and figure out exactly what you want from the car. I, as well as everyone else on these here forums, will be here to make sure it gets done.

P.S. also, stop by the florida section.... alot of locals love this stuff! lol

 

[mx-p5]

I know the title of this thread is stock engine, but, if I were to do some forged internals, wouldn't you still be running the risk of the car eventually giving out anyways? Like I said, I don't plan on autox'ing or anything with my car. It's just to get me to work and back, but, have fun while doing it.

You went 4 years on stock internals, but, at 10 psi. So, I would think that as long as the boost is kept minimal, and the engine kept up, it shouldn't wear too much faster. As long as I keep the pedal off the floor.

Tylor

 

[shane02pro5]

Internally wastegated used to be IHI like mine but I think they are using a T3/T4 internal wastegate. They come with a bov but I've always liked the SSQV.

 

[icespeed]

The weakest part of our cars is/are the crank rods. They don't have the tensil strength to withstand the forces that are running through them in a boosted application (the jury is still out on whether they're even good for n/a apps lol). What happens is that they fail. When I say fail, I don't mean failing a test! lol they literally break in half. When they do this, the "bottom" end of the rod continues to spin around (as it is still attached to the crankshaft) and literally punches a hole through the side of the block [casing]. This also depends on how far down the rod cracked. Occasionally, if it breaks up by the piston, it'll just eat apart the cylinder wall. Either way, the block [casing] needs to be replaced.

In my particular case, we've come to the conclusion that one of my valves (probably valve spring) in the head failed thus causing detonation (un-controlled combustion/explosion) that either a) punched a hole through the piston head, or b) caused a huge increase in load (pressure/force/whatever) that blew out the rod and thus punching a hole through the block (casing). Hell, for all I know it did both (I'll let you know in a few weeks) Check the link in my sig for the details

The short answer... yes over a long enough time, the engine will break. Not from the forged internals, necessarily, but probably from a valve spring, valve itself, crankshaft bearing, etc. Remember, there are alot of moving parts inside an engine. IIRC, pauter rods (forged rods) have a tensile strength of like 250,000psi. They'll probably be the last thing to fail. But probability, in itself, is another beast altogether. It doesn't say that you didn't get one of the .001% that are expected to fail.

 

[mx-p5]

So, turbo or not, the motor has the potential to fail prematurely. Good to know. Even if I were to buy a fully built engine from Protege Garage, I still run the risk of the motor popping as it did to Icespeed? Due to the valves or another part? Hmm.. I can use that reasoning on the wife.

"Babe, the motor could go at anytime turbo'd or not. It's just poor design by Mazda."

I can see how that's gonna end.

Well, I just gotta keep researching. It's going to be at least a year before I can think of going turbo, due to lack of funds. Just got my bonus, and, it's already gone. Did get 3 credit cards paid off though. So, we'll see where we are next year as to me actually going through with boosting.

Till then, I'll be the noob searching and asking dumb questions I can't find answers to.

Tylor

 

[shane02pro5]

I have 80k miles turbo and blew my 3rd gear in my tranny so far (knock on wood) build motor and stage 1 head in a couple weeks. The tranny in these cars were revised putting in carbon steel synchros and stronger shift forks since my car. Mine was 12/01 on the sticker in the door jam. All proteges use the revised parts after sticker date I think 4/02 so you may want to check that also!

Many many many blown motors have been due to turning up the boost without supporting mods or oil starvation or blown tranny by slamming gears around quickshifting! My 3rd gear went granny shifting at 3000 rpms. But the weekend before she had a bit of abuse at the track and a few 4th gear chirps out of the tires.

This is unfortunely one of those cars that you'll never know if your going to make it home driving or walking from all the horror stories you'll find here. Thing is once the rods are dealt with and tranny and a few things in between it can be reliable. Mine is a fine example but some guys go from one problem to another.

 

[icespeed]

Not to get philosophical, but there is only one 100% guarantee in life-Everything does die.

lol, believe it or not, every engine runs this risk, not just mazda. That is the whole purpose of a warranty. All car companies know that parts will fail. And to get you to buy with confidence, they say, "Yes that part may fail, BUT, when it does, we will replace it for free within so many years/miles."

As far as buying a fully built engine from Protege Garage, yes you have risk, but the risk of failure is dramatically reduced. If the risk of failure was 1:100 for stock internals, the risk of failure for forged internals would probably be on the order of around 1:10,000. Grant it these are generalizations, if you'd like, I'll run the numbers tonight (I don't think work would like me crunching physics numbers, when I'm working on IT stuff ) but, rest assured, you greatly reduce the risk with forged internals. This is why everyone has told you to do the internals first, before you slap a turbo on it.

as for questions... ask away! in no time, you'll be teaching the noobs. lol

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

So, turbo or not, the motor has the potential to fail prematurely. Good to know. Even if I were to buy a fully built engine from Protege Garage, I still run the risk of the motor popping as it did to Icespeed? Due to the valves or another part? Hmm.. I can use that reasoning on the wife.

"Babe, the motor could go at anytime turbo'd or not. It's just poor design by Mazda."

I can see how that's gonna end.

Well, I just gotta keep researching. It's going to be at least a year before I can think of going turbo, due to lack of funds. Just got my bonus, and, it's already gone. Did get 3 credit cards paid off though. So, we'll see where we are next year as to me actually going through with boosting.

Till then, I'll be the noob searching and asking dumb questions I can't find answers to.

Tylor

You Want a Good Advice ? Think about very good, Modding a Car takes you to another World of Problems and Endless money spending, when you reach the barrier of modifying your car, that means that nothing is enough, I really doubt when you say 7-8 PSI will be good for you. Trust me I stated the same way when i bought my MSP, yes it came Turbo already but, when i start to notice i wanted to be a little faster, and a little more power, I ended up with what most of you guys knows what i have under the hood, and thousands of dollars invested and millions of problems with the wife, modding a car its like having a stomachaid, once that s*** pops there is no stop.. a friendly advice. Im Pretty sure you can do lots of stuff to your car to make it look better and run a little better without spending much money and being worry about the hundreds of points you need to take care off.. if you up the HP you need to then worry about Transmission, Clutch, Suspension, maybe Brakes and an Endless list of s*** you really have to think and plan before going into a Jorney into what Modding your car is really about.. I mean Don't Get Scare i have learn that if you really want something go for it, but plan it very good and take your numbers, calculate cost on all the parts you need and labor, and posible things you might need in the near, very near future !!! I really dont Regret what i've done to my car but everytime i look back and see that i have spended more than 25k Since i bought my car i really get scared and think off what i could have done with that money instead. but also I say to my self you are Only 29 years old in life Once, in my case im 29... if you really want to do it, go for it, we are young in life once and if you can afford it, do your self a favor, ask lots of questions, get lots of quotes and ask we the people that already have done these and that. just a friendly advice !!!! Dream, Think Big or Go Home..... what do i mean with these,, Forged Internals, you can't build a house from the roof if you know what i mean

 

[mx-p5]

I appreciate the advice.

I'm not new to modding cars. Shoot, I bought my Jeep I sold to get the Mazda completely stock. Wait, I'll link to the pics of what it looked like when I bought it, and, what it looked like when I sold it. Trust me, I know about problems in modding. Especially when you're running through afew feet of mud.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/628000-628999/628206_33_full.jpg

http://photo.ringo.com/215/215536445O586016059.jpg

But, I will take to heart the advice, and tech knowledge from all and ponder

Tylor