2nd map clamp is a go!

[Haltech]

Ive seen 50/50 mixture out here. I suppose it varies by location. I mix my own using a 5 gallon can of VP. I go 50/50 with distilled water. For the track, i use a 100% mix of meth.

Some people consider 100% dangerous because of corrosion. My intercooler core on the truck sit below the supercharger and is made from alumn. There is no corrosion on it after 5 yrs of use, so i would venture to say, dont worry about 100% mixture for the track on the MS3.

 

[dadasracecar]

Methanol will not corrode anything. Water is much more corrosive than meth. Also, the autoignition temp of meth is like 455C compared to ~289C for 93 octane. Autoignition temp is what octane rating is based on. I forget the calc but it works out to like 140 octane or something. In any case, meth adds fuel, raises octane, and cools the motor. It's the safest way to add hp. The only concern is running out or your equipment failing while running a meth tune.

 

[driver311]

I believe meth works out to like 130 octane actually and with a 50/50 mix I believe its like 105 octane.

 

[SpdFreak]

Methanol will not corrode anything. Water is much more corrosive than meth. Also, the autoignition temp of meth is like 455C compared to ~289C for 93 octane. Autoignition temp is what octane rating is based on. I forget the calc but it works out to like 140 octane or something. In any case, meth adds fuel, raises octane, and cools the motor. It's the safest way to add hp. The only concern is running out or your equipment failing while running a meth tune.

There are failsafes for a reason, but if you don't tune for it, and just use it to compensate for the heatsoak (to prevent the ECU from pulling timing), then no failsafe is needed. However you are correct that if you run out of whatever you are injecting, you risk motor damage, but then again...Failsafes work.

 

[SpdFreak]

Having a budget kit in the trunk ($200) with 100% meth in the tank, for the time that you are running too lean, and don't have time to tune, or detune, can be woth the investment, but if you want to be 100% safe, keep your laptop (charged) in the car and drop the boost to keep safe if you run lean.

 

[SpdFreak]

Heres a link to a thread that is relevent to this discussion.

 

[Haltech]

Heres a link to a thread that is relevent to this discussion.

Well that Colo Evo is an assclown when he states less knocking in the winter time. ECUs add timing in cold, denser air. Its a fact of life. Although he can state his thoughts on cylinder pressure, it all falls back onto a pair of items.. IAT and MAF. When cold air hits that IAT, its going to adjust accordingly. Whatever Mazda decided to program into the ECU, is going to add XX amount of timing at XX temp and XX MAF voltage.

 

[SpdFreak]

Well that Colo Evo is an assclown when he states less knocking in the winter time. ECUs add timing in cold, denser air. Its a fact of life. Although he can state his thoughts on cylinder pressure, it all falls back onto a pair of items.. IAT and MAF. When cold air hits that IAT, its going to adjust accordingly. Whatever Mazda decided to program into the ECU, is going to add XX amount of timing at XX temp and XX MAF voltage.

I didn't say he was correct, all I did was post the link.

That does bring up a question though. How do tuners push a cars tune to the limits, and feel that the car will be safe (mechanicly)? It's the owners/drivers problem if he drives around with the car knocking because of a change in elevation or humidity, but a shop deffinetly doesn't want a bad reputation. So whats the answer?

 

[Haltech]

I didn't say he was correct, all I did was post the link.

That does bring up a question though. How do tuners push a cars tune to the limits, and feel that the car will be safe (mechanicly)? It's the owners/drivers problem if he drives around with the car knocking because of a change in elevation or humidity, but a shop deffinetly doesn't want a bad reputation. So whats the answer?

Its experience that answers that question. Every new platform has a learning curve. I can remember with our trucks, people said 12 psi would blow the motor, yet a year later we were running 14 psi, than 16, than 18. These guys were running to much timing on the street and to be honest, the tuning solutions sucked for a long time until Diablo and SCT came aboard.

Once people get more familiar with this car, its tuning options, and unfortunately, customers mistakes or taking the car over the limit, we wont know. A few MS3s engines will have to be sacrificed in order to get these answers. What we need are true tuning solutions in order to get the real answers to these cars. It will be a long road for a little bit.

 

[tru-boost]

laloosh my bud you are not alone ! even with my clamp i am still getting some kind of cut. like driver i am boosting to 18-19psi. the map clamp seems to be working fine. i can hold high boost from 3000-5500rpm, but at the top end of the upper gears i am getting some sort of cut. the car just stumbles like it did before the clamp. the difference is the car would cut instantly at 18 psi before. now it holds it just fine. i think i am just running out of fuel !
i need that pump !

 

[driver311]

laloosh my bud you are not alone ! even with my clamp i am still getting some kind of cut. like driver i am boosting to 18-19psi. the map clamp seems to be working fine. i can hold high boost from 3000-5500rpm, but at the top end of the upper gears i am getting some sort of cut. the car just stumbles like it did before the clamp. the difference is the car would cut instantly at 18 psi before. now it holds it just fine. i think i am just running out of fuel !
i need that pump !

yes, yes you do. Ive talked with laloosh many times about this. The fuel pump loses psi and then the car goes into some kind of limp mode. Feels like is misfiring. Laloosh says when he datalogged it the car was pulling timing and the fuel pressure fell real hard. he said all that went away with the pump. I have mine right here in front of me. Im excited. LOL

 

[shucky]

Driver, did your issue happen with the ATP BCD also? Or just since you switched to the map clamp? Is yours temperature related like Laloosh? Just curious why happened since you already ran like 12.8 ??

 

[SpdFreak]

Driver, did your issue happen with the ATP BCD also? Or just since you switched to the map clamp? Is yours temperature related like Laloosh? Just curious why happened since you already ran like 12.8 ??

More like 12.6.




I was at a performance shop the other day and asked about the speed3. The tech said that no one has bought any of them in, only a couple of speed6's. I'm not supprised because most of the shop was filled with BMW's, Audi's, Porsche's, high end VW's, Evo's ans worked Subie's.
When I asked about the map clamp and MBC, he said it's going the wrong way, and I do understand him. What we need is SCT to design a flash device for our car, or have someone crack the stock ecu and design a program like EvoScan, or LS1Edit.

Till then, does anyone plan on using the Apexi Neo?

 

[shucky]

Well a flash is nice and all, but they are not perfect either. Coming from the VW scene, most of the flashes available are pretty conversative. Most folks reflash AND still add a boost controller. Further, just because a flash may be undetectable to a dealer, all they have to do is drive it to see something is up. I dont see a flash of any kind (ie-Cobb) at any point soon. The BCD or MAP clamp + boost controller seems like a viable option and if the upgraded CDFP does cure the fuel cut, it should be plenty enough power for most folks.

Back on topic, I'm still wondering if the cold weather induced this recent fuel cut issue. I dont gather one could run 12.6 or 12.8 (whatever) with fuel cut. And if it is/was the colder weather, why not just run a more conservative setting of boost during the very cold months? Did anyone try 16, 17 psi to see if the cut goes away with a little less boost during the cold?

Need the info!

 

[driver311]

I havent had any fuel cut since the map clamp. Though the weather is up around 40degrees now. Im running around 17-18psi right now. s**** weird.

 

[shucky]

Oh, I was under the impression you were getting some cut at 5500rpms. My bad. Why did you dyno your SRI vs. CAI at lower boost? Just curious.

 

[driver311]

was cutting again this morning. s**** getting old. Its not boost cut though. the map clamp gets rid of that. its something else. I need a fuel pump.

 

[laloosh]

i need a map clamp lol, i just put on my intercooler. HOLY s***. im on stock boost controler and its holding 18-19 before it boost cuts my ass. i am uploading the datalogs as we speak

 

[driver311]

I told you playa. Tmic flows alot more air.

ps. I got you covered on the mapclamp. One is headed your way.

 

[laloosh]

I told you playa. Tmic flows alot more air.

ps. I got you covered on the mapclamp. One is headed your way.

woot woot, happy ending ftw