Twiggy Sticks Install, tuning and results thread

Does anyone know if there would be a problem with (piston/valve) clearance if I ran these cams with the FS-ZE 10.4:1 compression ratio pistons from corksport?

non-interference

the piston can't hit the valves
unless you break something...like a valve and it falls into
the cylinder
 
Lordworm and Twilight might correct me on this, but I am pretty sure that the Twiggy exhaust cam is an interference cam. I understand that this is due to the increase in the base circle. Whether they will interfere with a high compression piston - I don't know.

I'll get LW to hop on and let you know.
 
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thanks for the input... the Derrick at Corksport said it shouldn't be a problem and advised to spin everything before we bolt it up, but I would hate to get them in just to have to take them right back out. Besides, I plan on getting some cam gears from Brach so i want to make sure if i make adjustments down the road that nothing will happen.
 
interference or not - it wont be a problem until you drop a timing belt. I had a slight clearance issue with my installation, which could be down to machining tollerences - but before the rocker cover went on, i rotated the crank by hand (well, with a big socket wrench) - and it didn't cause any problems... the only issue i had was when i tried to rotate the exhaust cam independent of everything else... it would only turn so far.

Not a problem - mine interferes, and causes no nasty side effects... It could be an australian only problem - because our pistons are slightly higher compression - reason i say it could be an australian only problem is there are a few people here who have them in already and i would have expected a report of interference if it was going to be a problem.
 
interference or not - it wont be a problem until you drop a timing belt.
This is 100% true..so no matter if it will interfere or not..It wont unless you break a timing belt. So all of the talk about different pistons really doesnt apply.

If you check all of your clearances and turn evrything over by hand ...and set your Timing(the actual belt ) right..you shouldnt have any problems..unless a belt breaks..

In that case.... you will have major problems on an interference motor.
 
This is 100% true..so no matter if it will interfere or not..It wont unless you break a timing belt. So all of the talk about different pistons really doesnt apply.

If you check all of your clearances and turn evrything over by hand ...and set your Timing(the actual belt ) right..you shouldnt have any problems..unless a belt breaks..

In that case.... you will have major problems on an interference motor.

If you are diligent with your servicing, you should never break or throw a belt :P

obviously when installing these cams all clearences should be checked etc....
 
Hey guys, I have been keeping up with these but I got to missing the car and wondered if anyone has finally put them in and dynoed yet? I never did see what they could do. What kind of numbers do they pull?
 
There are a few installed.
I have cylinder head work progressing that will include setting up for the cams.
As with most others, I have multiple mods going in simultaneously. So it will be up to someone.??..to eventually get an accurate before/after dyno
 
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Hey guys, I have been keeping up with these but I got to missing the car and wondered if anyone has finally put them in and dynoed yet? I never did see what they could do. What kind of numbers do they pull?

I don't have a back to back dyno, but i have a back to back 1/4 mile run...


15.6 vs 15.2, only thing changed was the cams...

Got a fair increase in mph as well....
 
alright, finally getiing the cams and adj cam gears in.... has any come across a good looking/quality solution to the cam positioning sensor on our cars. I dont want to have to take the whole valve cover off every time i make an adjustment. I was thinking about making a two part valve cover so I could just take off the section over the gears (clear would be cool so I could see the pretty red anodized gears) and leave the part that actually keeps the oil in alone. lmk, Thanks!
 
"0", I guess to start with. That was a bit radical sounding for me, so I adjusted for smoothish idle-halfway between NA and FI setting. I still haven't got around to modifying the cover yet.
 
I got some pics of the cut 626 VC
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123671187&page=2

Mine I bought recently from XelderX...

VC1.jpg


VC2.jpg
 
I figure this def belongs in this thread too:

twilightprotege said:
LASH (important).
Intake should be set between 0.010 and 0.014
Exhaust should be set between 0.020 and 0.024 please note this is perfectly fine when you check your lash. If youre wondering, the reason for the higher lash is to get the ramp rates back into an acceptable range.

from
Here you go:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2929337&highlight=lash#post2929337
My Twiggy cams went straight in. Some of the shims had to be moved around to get a better fit but nothing major.
 
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