Yakima racks?

[gfen]

So, I understand that the OEM Mazda racks are made by Thule, and buying the Thule aerokit (or something) gets me the same thing.

That'd be really awesome if I didn't have an entire set of Yakima Q towers and bars just sitting in my garage, waiting to be recycled on the 5.

Does anyone use this, and is it really as bad as it seemed to be in some of the older messages I've read? I'm not looking to scratch up the rear doors as my wife opens and shuts 'em, and she's not going to remember to actually do it carefully either so don't expect that to be an answer.

So, suck it up and buy a set of Thule or is there hope for the Yakima rig I've got yet?

 

[red headz]

We are looking into a rack setup on our M5 as well.

I have a Yakima on my VW Golf TDI. After a few hours of research, my preference is as follows:

1) Thule - the feet seem to fit better
2) Yakima - I didn't like the clips over those door seals although it allow the bars to be spread far apart (and I'm not sure Thule will allow for wide bars).
3) Mazda OEM rack. But then I have to purchase all Mazda attachments :mad:

michael.

 

[OilGuy]

I've got the Q towers on. One poster said they were able to tweak the spacing to avoid rubbing with the doors. I haven't had time to play much with them yet - just assembled then removed. My doors lightly touch the clips as of now, but there is a protective sticker that comes with the Q clips (which may help a bit). I plan on moving the towers inward a tad to try to prevent this from happening. I found that the recommended Yakima spacing for the rear bars is slightly too wide.

There's noticeable wind noise with bare bars - even with a single windjammer on the front bar. Might need a fairing or 2nd windjammer to quiet the noise.

I'd say it's worth a try. Clips have gotten much pricier since I originally bought the towers, but I found them on sale online. Also, if you have a garage full of Yakima accessories, it makes sense to try to make it work.

I plan on mounting the towers only when I need them to minimize wind noise and maximize fuel economy. Even if the clips rub a bit, I'm not worried to have them rub only during the times when the rack is on. I also plan on getting a rear hitch to carry a hitch-mount bike carrier.

 

[red headz]

OilGuy -

Coupla things.

I agree with the wind noise, but that's with all rack setups. I have a fairing on my VW Golf TDI.

Clips are crazy expensive. But that's where they are making their money now days. Most rack setups can last for over 10 years. Mine started on a Honda Civic 2dr, then moved to the VW... and might move to the Mazda5 unless we purchase an entirely new system.

Our racks stay on 90% of the time. Summer bike trips, winter skis & gear, and the random road trip, we have used and abused our roof racks.

I'll post up about the THULE if we get one. I'm still leaning that way because of the Yakima clip issue.

michael.

 

[Halo]

You don't have to purchase OEM parts for the OEM crossbars. If you need bike trays (all I've ever put on my car):

Yakima makes one that fits OEM racks:http://www.yakima.com/racks/rack-systems/product/8002093/raptor-aero.aspx

There are other brands that do the same.

The trick here is that OEM ovalized crossbars are thin aluminum so you can't clamp down on them in a small area or carry a big box, you'll crush them. But a couple of 18lb road bikes is no problem. Usually these aftermarket bike trays have a very wide clamp on the front to distribute the compression over a large area.

 

[red headz]

I just posted in a different thread.

I've discovered Inno racks. If I cannot get roof rails then I might get Inno over Thule or Yakima.

Inno base rack: $150
Thule base rack: $300

... Yakima base rack: $300 - but the Yakima clips pinch door seals (headshake

michael.