Somehtings I am Noticing after the Turbo?

1sty

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2006 Toyota Tundra DC
1. It takes a few secnds for the engine to kick over when its really cold out. It didn't do this last winter and the battery is fine, infact its an optima so its more then fine.
Could the turbo have something to do with this?

2. The car pulls much harder at partial throatle. Flooring it feels slugish. Unless you let the car gradualy increase in boost as you climb the RPM band. Is this just becuase we have to run rich when open loop? Or closed, whatever.

3. It takes a few seconds after letting off the throatle for the car to become bogged. I assume this has to do with the extra length of the intake path and the turbo has to slow down.

4. I can break the wheels loose even in 3rd, this is fun!

5. Someone asked me if I had an intake, I said no I had a Turbo!
Why did their jar hit the ground?:D

Seriously, any advise on the first 3 and has anyone come up with a way to get these damn cars to hook up better. I assume we all are still waiting for a good limit slip to be available. I thought FM would have been all over the limit slip by now. HELP KEITH WE NEED TRACTION.
 
Yeah, we're looking at solutions. After following me (in my Miata) around in the P5 last night, Bill was complaining about the wheelspin :) No answers yet - Quaife would be cool but Mazdaspeed has an exclusive.

I can't see how the turbo would add significantly to the start time. That's a curious one.

You may be running a bit rich by your description, unless you've got the TPS confused.

I'm not sure what #3 means - it takes a few seconds to become "bogged"? Does this mean you don't get engine braking right away?

Keith
 
#3 does mean engine braking, I didn't know the term.

Whats TPS? I thought it might be rich. I get about 78 PSI of fuel at 8 PSI of boost. I run 94 octane but I didn't know if it was safe to crack open the needle valve yet. I can't here knock, but I know it can happen with out audable warning.

The wheelspin is just out of control, I can't do anything until 3rd gear.
 
Better tires would be a good start. And soft front springs :) That's all I can offer at the moment for the wheelspin. Patience, grasshopper.

TPS: Throttle position sensor. That's what tells your ECU that the throttle is closed and that it's wide open - both conditions where you've got a problem. It could also contribute to your start problem.

That's a lot of fuel. I'd try bringing it down a bit and listening carefully.

Keith
 
I have the same problem!!!
It was raining yesterday, and my tires kept on spinning up until 4th gear!!! I almost got in an accident because I was standing in place spinning my tieres.

BTW I have P5 with no turbo.

Any suggestions?

I wasn't even pushing the gas pedal that hard. It was my regular driving.

Help anyone!!!
 
I was raingin here a few weeks ago here, I couldn't get up a little hill becuase of it.

How do I set the TPS? and where is it?
Or is it one of those things that either works or is fualty?
 
I agree witht he bogging. Ever since I went up to a little over 8psi and bypassed the Cats I've noticed that it actually got slower. :wtf: .. I think this is due to my over compensation in raising the fuel psi.

I will try and lower it carefully and listen for knock. Also, I think I have a leak at the downpipe. I only have 2 bolts holding it on to the turbo-until I can drill out and re-tap the stud that broke off.

I had a lot of wheel spin at 6psi with my old tires... But ever since I got the new falkens on there I only chirp intto second. Heck of a difference.

I'll do all of that this weekend and see if it helps.
 
SMP, Yeah, you definitely have leaking at the downpipe if you only have 2 studs holding it on. It WILL affect your boost by making you slower! I have to be careful when hiting it in 1st, and I have to shift fast then transition it into speed, or I will break loose. That power for ya!:D You difinitely want to tune your fuel, but only after you have remedied the downpipe situation.
 
Yeah, I know I have a leak. To tell you the truth I've NEVER had all three bolts on. The bottom one was never on until now, and now the upper right is off.

I know there's a leak because a few weeks back I noticed the turbo spool sounded A LOT lounder than usual and it turned out I only had one bolt holding the damn downpipe on. Well, that noise has been back since I went up to 8psi.

Time to Re-Tap and fix!

BTW my radio hasn't gotten power in two weeks. I'm thinking I might have fried the wire somehow. No music in car=me singing and looking like a fruit.
 
When did the radio stop working?
Is it the CD player also?
Did you take apart the dash or pull the radio out?
Is it a stock unit?
Did you check the fuse?
Did you jump start your car recently and forget to turn off the radio?

Your in my world now!
(lol) (laugh)
 
Yeah the whole until doesn't get power. I've never messed with it or taken it out, nor have I ever messed with anything near to the wiring to the deck.

I've taken my battery cables off a few times in the past month, but not recently. It all of a sudden just stopped getting power.

Any idea?
 
smp3000 said:
Yeah the whole until doesn't get power. I've never messed with it or taken it out, nor have I ever messed with anything near to the wiring to the deck.

I've taken my battery cables off a few times in the past month, but not recently. It all of a sudden just stopped getting power.

Any idea?

Time to check that fuse!!
 
Fuse and if not its under warrenty. there is nothing you can harm under the hood that would effect the radio.
 
It should be under warranty, but is it something I can switch out myself for cheap?

I've never had to change out fuses on a car.
 
smp3000 said:
It should be under warranty, but is it something I can switch out myself for cheap?

I've never had to change out fuses on a car.

Yes you can! Go down to your local Auto store, and get you some 15 AMP fuses. They are the rectangular ones, usually blue. On your fuse block in your driverside kickpannel, use the fuse puller that is on the block to pull the fuses on the top row, and check each for a gap in the metal filliment. I think the one for the radio is the 1st one?
 
The back of the fuse panel tells you what they are as does the manual also the fuse box has a spare fuse for every size. If the fuse is blown you'll be a ble to se the filment has broken in the fuse.
 
Thanks guys! :)

Listening to me try to freestyle was getting old. I'd use the exhaust as my bass and my BOV as my snare. At times it was cool, but then I'd pull up next to a black guy and I'd feel like the whitest guy on earth. :eek:

Bahsdhahhaha
 
LinuxRacr said:


Yes you can! Go down to your local Auto store, and get you some 15 AMP fuses. They are the rectangular ones, usually blue. On your fuse block in your driverside kickpannel, use the fuse puller that is on the block to pull the fuses on the top row, and check each for a gap in the metal filliment. I think the one for the radio is the 1st one?
Jesus christ, here's a guy who's had to "do it himself"
 
LinuxRacr said:


Yes you can! Go down to your local Auto store, and get you some 15 AMP fuses. They are the rectangular ones, usually blue. On your fuse block in your driverside kickpannel, use the fuse puller that is on the block to pull the fuses on the top row, and check each for a gap in the metal filliment. I think the one for the radio is the 1st one?

heh..the right most fuse in the upper row....gee never blew that fuse before...
I noticed Keith said soft front springs...That reminded me..How come race cars used to run airbags, before they were outlawed in professional racing? Could they be used to get a better launch somehow? Anyone know?
 
Kza.

The only thing i would think of is that they are udjustable. See in the car world there are two different school of thought on how you should have you suspension (sp?) tuned. Some people say that you should have the car level. Both back and front are the same height. This is better for racing laps but suck when you start from a stand still is sucks. This is due to the car rocking back and having the tires spin. Thats the reason FWD cars spin the tired easier then a rear wheel drive car.

Then there are the people that have the back higher then front. this is great for take off front a stand still b/c when you take off and the Tq kicks in the cars rocks backward the back of the car stays higher then the front and allows the wheel to gripp. But the down side is that since the back of the car is raised it creates more drag while racing laps.

So having air bag allows you to lower your front of the car for take off and raise it for laps.

then again this is my opinion. could be wrong about everything.
 
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