4 piston would be very nice, even in stock size. I would like to get a cross drilled rear rotor at the least. A vented slotted rotor would be preferred if that is possible with your kit.
But having slotted/cross drilled rotors aren't going to solve a heat issue...and on top of that by trashed I would assume you mean warped in which case that means either you lugs are tightened properly or you stomped on the brakes on held it.
slotted won't help with cooling, but I was told that cross drilled would help a little. Firestone said that the rotors were really overheated and warped.
slotted won't help with cooling, but I was told that cross drilled would help a little. Firestone said that the rotors were really overheated and warped.
The point of crossdrilled rotors is simply to reduce rotating mass. You actually decrease your braking ability since your reducing the surface area of the rotor face. Your best all around bet for rotors is going to be a simple set of brembo blanks. I am not sure how firestone determined your rotors are bad but the quickest way to tell is while running down the highway just lift on your ebrake a little bit (hold the button in) and see if you get a vibration in the seat of your pants...if so the rotors are warped if not well, that firestone for you.
Well the RX-7 caliper + 11.1" MSP/626/ Mazda 6 front rotors is a no-go.
Once my finances recouperate from my suspension swap I'll start on the larger rotor mockup's.
Sport23: If your rear brakes are over heating and you havent installed an adjustable prop valve or seriously agressive street compound pads in the rear
check your E brake mechanisim and the calipers to be sure they are not sticking.
As for the drilled rotor = improved cooling thing... remember that you would be removing mass from a part that depends on mass to store and disipate heat. Removing mass reduces the capacity to store a volume of heat before the local temperature at any given point on the rotor exceeds the rotors and pads range of operation.
There may be a tiny grain of truth to that theory with vented rotors as the holes will allow cooling air from inside the rotor to exit at that location and cool the imediate area slightly but since the rear rotors are solid theres no pressure differential to encourage airflow through the holes and you will see little or no flow there at all.
And on the matter of warping. It should be made clear to everyone that there is very very rarely a case where the rotor is actualy "warped".
Pulsing pedals and high speed shudders are almost allways a result of un-even brake pad deposits on the rotor surface.
This comes from either improper bed in procedures or from using the brakes past the pads operating temps.
With the msp your really only going to want front. The car already has problems with the rears being entirely too strong and having the abs kick in early. Back when I auto-xed my msp I got much better results pulling the abs fuse. The other fix I came across with this was speaking to tripoint when ordering my pads. I ended up with axxis ultimates on the front which helps a lot with stronger braking and added some basic c-tech pads in the rear to combat rear lock up which is what caused early activation of the abs.
A lot of you braking also depends on the tires your running as well a sticky tire goes a long way for handling and braking
That has been an option for a while now and I have concidered it but the MS6/3 brakes are overkill for a lot of aplications.
Being N/A and sticking to 225 width tires for the time being I'm looking at options that keep the weight down at the wheels. RX7 calipers on any given .9" OE rotor represents a decent benifit as far as weight is concerned as well as the other benifits of a 4 pot caliper.
There is also a bridge/spacer kit available for the 7 calipers that allows them to accept thicker rotors. If they fit the 11.8" rotors and sell I might sell a version to fit the thicker 12.6" rotors.
