Running *very* Rich with Spool kit

Ok, just went out for a drive with my scan tool in hand. igdrasil you are right, as I accelerate, the car runs on the rich side, but the second I go from vacuum to boost the voltage hits a steady .37v. Now whenever I let off the gas and coast while in gear, the voltage drops all the way to a steady 0 until I accelerate or push the clutch. When I do push the clutch, the voltage stays low for at least a second or two.
So I think you all might be right in that I'm running lean instead of rich. Maybe the exhaust pops and stalling are do to the computer seeing that I'm lean and dumping more fuel at that moment. I don't know!

I'll be able to get a better feel for what's going when I test it tomorrow when its 102 degrees outside.

Thanks
 
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Its interesting...

I think you are running too rich, so, no worries. This has happened to me before too, with no aparent reason, first 2 weeks runs rich until it bogs down, then it settles down and starts leaning out the curve.

Running lean will do the contrary, car will be fast.... but can detonate or ping.

Try running 5psi until it settles down, Ive seen cars that need some time to start running fine, sounds weird but it is true. If after 2-3 weeks the car still runs horrible, check that the FMU is ok and not jammed. Some will raise too much pressure at once and go off the charts of A/F ratio.

Do you have a Fuel pressure gauge? If so, where is installed?

If you see a pressure drop, the ECU is seeing the extra fuel.

Somehow the ECU figures its running rich if you have issues with the primary o2 sensor, so, its not only the pink wires, check that the whole sensor circuit is ok (heater, grounds and signal).
 
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igdrasil said:
Its interesting...

If after 2-3 weeks the car still runs horrible, check that the FMU is ok and not jammed. Some will raise too much pressure at once and go off the charts of A/F ratio.

Do you have a Fuel pressure gauge? If so, where is installed?

If you see a pressure drop, the ECU is seeing the extra fuel.

Somehow the ECU figures its running rich if you have issues with the primary o2 sensor, so, its not only the pink wires, check that the whole sensor circuit is ok (heater, grounds and signal).

Funny uoi should say that. My car runs rich because of that damn FMU. As soon as I see boost, my fuel pressure (measured at the rail) will go up to about 70psi, and my car will hesitate, bog down, and pop out the exhaust. Once I get it revved over 5000, the pressure drops to about 58psi constant, because the engine is able to deal with all the fuel it's getting because it's running at a high RPM. Is there any way to limit how much fuel pressure I get in the mid range? This is gay. I need EMS...
 
Maxx Mazda said:
Funny uoi should say that. My car runs rich because of that damn FMU. As soon as I see boost, my fuel pressure (measured at the rail) will go up to about 70psi, and my car will hesitate, bog down, and pop out the exhaust. Once I get it revved over 5000, the pressure drops to about 58psi constant, because the engine is able to deal with all the fuel it's getting because it's running at a high RPM. Is there any way to limit how much fuel pressure I get in the mid range? This is gay. I need EMS...

haha yea... are you still planning on getting the Microtech?
 
Well, I've had the kit on for about 10 months and it has run this way since day 1. I'll take the fmu off and check to see if it's jammed. I have a sspare fmu laying around the house, so I can even swap it out if you think that would make a difference. I'll try to get a fuel pressure gauge sometime this week if I can afford it.
Yeah and I've never heard any pinging. So it sounds like I'm just going to have to live with this. I just wanted to see if I could get it to the point where I didn't have to feather the gas when stopping.
I'd get an EMS but I'll never be able to afford it :(
 
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Sounds like your voltage clamp is working right, its just your MAF that is giving

you the problems(backfiring, stalling). The airflow meter is reading air that the

engine isnt thanks to the BOV. Try to push in the clutch at low RPM's (~2000)

to prevent any stalling. To fix this search for "blow thru MAF".
 
Hmm. read through a couple of posts. Sounds like it might be an option. I've got the bypass valve dumping into the intake between th MAF and turbo because I figured by having that air which has already been metered once by the MAF, metered agian when it blows off would just cause to be even richer.

I took a look at a few posts on moving the MAF to the boost pipe, but that makes even less sense to me. I would figure that would cause the computer to add fuel like crazy. I'll read up more on it tonight.
 

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