Rims!!!

hey Acoupdetat. We must really be alike I am debating about the C3's or Kinesis K20's. and we have the same color car. So naturally my vote would not be for the C3's. You know I can't have a twin running around somewhere. Seriously though they both look bad ass. I have seen them both in 17's on our cars. they were photoshopped pictures but they were sweet. Good taste in wheels
 
FuNwaGoN said:
I am debating about the C3's or Kinesis K20's

How can you possibly be debating between RH Evo C3s and Kinesis K20s? Do you realize that one is $200 a piece and junk and that the other is $1000 a piece and one of the highest quality wheels avalible? I'm sure you have a budget of some kind in mind...that should dictate which wheel you buy. I don't mean to be an ass about it but how can you be considering both wheels at the same time? If you can afford it...you should buy the kinesis...if you can't, you have to settle for the C3s.

Shawn
 
I know it may sound stupid but it is my debate. I am not really worried about budget. I plan on keeping my car and getting the mods I want so if I have to wait a bit to save more then I will. I had Kinesis K28's in 18x7.5 on my corrado and the wheels rocked. Got more looks and compliments on those wheels than on any other I have owned. I did have a small problem where I bent one of the lips on a wheel just from hitting a pot hole but with 35 series tires I am told it is pretty easy to do depending on the pot hole. Like I said I know it sounds crazy but I just can't decide on which ones. it's the look I am going for. I do agree that the kinesis are far superior but that is not part of the equation. I have a guy that can get me a deal on either wheel too so I just have to decide. Waiting for him to call me back about the kinesis. He said he would give me a good price. One thing is for sure I would probably be the only P5 with Kinesis on it. Glad to hear that you know the value of real performance parts
Section 8. I am a little tired of the rice bargain crap that has flooded the market. As for racing harts being crap I don't agree. but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I actually had a guy stop me in a gas station and tell me he liked the wheels but he went with AXIS because it was a recognized name and he didn't want no name wheels. When I told him what they really were and how much they were he freaked. BTW I got the wheels and tires on the corrado for around $3000.
 
hey funwaggon, do you have any pics on the kinesis rims... im not really sure what i want anymore... i keep looking at the pics and it keeps making me change my mind.... also i want something kinda unique. The other night i went to a local car show and saw the cp3 and the cp2 on diff cars. and afew night before when i went out with my friends i saw some cp3s on an integra.
 
Hey, more power to you if you do get the kinesis...you're right, you probably would be the only pro5 out there with them on his car. I agree with you, Racing Hart wheels are NOT crap....BUT....the C2 and C3 that we're talking about here are not made by Racing Hart but by RH Evo. RH Evo is not the same thing as Racing Hart, they have NOTHING to do with Racing Hart other than that they are distributed by the same people out there in Souther California, Dazz Motorsports. Basically, Dazz saw how popular the Racing Hart series was, so they had a line of wheels made up to knock off the Racing Hart styling. RH Evo is made in Taiwan in the same factory as Primax Wheels.....you know primax? The wheels you see advertised in the local paper or "4 rims and tires, only $599" That's what you're buying when you buy RH Evo. People on other boards also have had major quality issues with RH Evo, they are very weak and brittle. Rather then bending, they will crack. They are cast and filled with tiny air pockets that weaken the structure of the wheel. If you like the mesh wheel design, but want to look as something pricewise between the Kinesis and RH Evo, why not take a look at the Racing Hart three piece C2(the REAL C2) or some of the BBS wheels?

Shawn

P.S. Thanks for the compliment on my car :)
 
I actually was considering the C2 (the real thing) I am not too crazy about the BBS but I think they are great wheels. Right now I am trying to decide to either go with something that is all silver or polished or going with something gunmetal or anthracite in the middle with a polished lip. Can't decide what direction to go with my car. Thanks for all of the background info. The guy I get all of my stuff from used to work for Dazz until he moved out here and opened his own shop. He told me he has had mixed reactions with the Evo line but that for the money they are a good wheel. I would like to stay on the lighter side and I want something in 17". I plan on dropping my car with coilovers and I just don't want to go through all of the rubbing issues you encouter with 18's. I had to do all kinds of stuff(rolling fenders, spacers, hammering) to get the 18's to work on my Corrado. They only rubbed if someone was sitting in the back or if I hit a bad bump but that was only after lots of work. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm just had a thought. What about the Racing Hart C2 with just the center powder coated dark grey or gunmetal or something. Since they are 3 piece. My thing is if I am going to spend that much on racing harts I might as well go with the kinesis. Oh well what ever I decide I will post pics. trying to sell my truck right now so I can start playing with the P5.
 
FuNwaGoN said:
I plan on dropping my car with coilovers and I just don't want to go through all of the rubbing issues you encouter with 18's. I had to do all kinds of stuff(rolling fenders, spacers, hammering) to get the 18's to work on my Corrado.

The diameter of the wheel has nothing to do with rubbing. It doesn't matter if you're running a 16, 17, 18, 19 or even 20 inch wheel, if the offset is correct, it will not rub. For example, if you have a 16x7 +48 offset wheel and it doesn't rub (which it won't) a 17x7 +48, 18x7 +48, 19x7 +48, or 20x7 +48 will not rub either if you keep within the same overall diameter by shortening the sidewall with each subsequent gain in wheel diameter. With the wrong offset, even a 14 inch wheel will rub. Again to reiterate: rubbing has nothing to do with wheel diamter and everything to do with offset! Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.

Shawn
 
how much do those kinesis k20's weigh?? If I was about to spend $480 a wheel for 16's I might as well save a little more and get those in 17's if they don't weigh much.
 
The 17 inch Kinesis K20s weigh about 18 pounds a piece. Keep in mind that a three piece wheel will always be heavier than the the same design in a one piece just because of the way the wheel is built.

The RH Evo CP8-Rs are actually better than the typical RH Evo wheel...they are in fact spin forged which is better in terms of weight savings and strength from a cast wheel (which all other RH Evo wheels are) but still not quite as strong as a true pressure forged wheel like Volk Racings. That being said, it's all moot because the CP8-R is only avalibe in a four lug, civic fitment and is not available for our proteges.
 
oK wHOA gUYS Hey section 8 check them brakes. Man we get it you know alot about cars. great more power to you. But calm down and read the post and take into consideration that this is a internet bulletin board in which everything you say has to be typed and so some posts do not include all of the information or may be shortened due to assumptions of common knowledge. I understand offset and everything but some cars are just not made to take certain size wheels no matter what offset you put on them. Because using your formula or theory on offset you could put a set of 20's on a corrado and they wouldn't rub with the correct offset. I will bet you a million dollars they will. The reason I said that too is that I have heard of people on here with 18s that rub on their p5's and since mine is a daily driver and not just a show car and since the Charlotte roads SUCk. I don't want to have any problems period. Plus there is a small issue of a selection of tires sizes and brands. I have more selection and availability with a 17 than a 18. Man look I am not trying to be mean or flame but you have jumped up and down all over this post on just about everything I have said. Listen it is like this. Most of my posts won't get technical because I know that for the most part it's not what people want to read. therefore I stick to opinions and personal thoughts. If somebody wants or asks for specs I usually will point them to a website or just tell them the specs if I know they are right. But don't mistake they way I post for the way I am. I am very competent when it comes to cars. I have had 2 national winning show cars and one hell of an auto x car that is now a full blown race car. I completely rebuilt my cj-5 from the frame up electrical and all. So now that we have all flexed our automotive muscles why don't you back off a bit and take the argument somewhere else.
 
Hey FuNwaGoN, I'm sorry if I come off as pompous or stuck up...I assure you, that is not my intention. I'm not talking down to you or "jumping up and down" over everything you've said. I just want to set the facts straight for the people out there who do not know as much as you or me. I believe that you are very competant when it come to cars but not every one knows everything (including me) so it's always important when someone if giving out incorrect information that someone else corrects them.

One of the big misunderstandings about rubbing is that 18s are more likely to rub than 17s which are more likely to rub than 16s. I just want everyone out there to know that this is NOT true. As long as the overall diameter of the tire and width of the tire is kept the same, there is no differece in terms of risk of rubbing whether you go 16, 17, 18, 19 or 20. That is to say that as you step up in diameter of your wheel, you need to shorten the sidewall of the tire accordingly; when going from a 17 to an 18 inch wheel, you are increasing the diameter one whole inch, therefore you need to shorten the diameter of the tire one whole inch while keeping the same width. That being said, you can definitly fit 18 or even 19s on a 3rd gen protege with absolutly no rubbing problems. Ask Rishie from ARD he has 18s on his protege 5 with no problem and Sean from ARD has 19s on his MP3 with no rubbing issues. Again, it all comes down to offset. Now you are right, 20s will not fit on a protege because they do not make a tire thin enough to work..but theoretically, if they did, you can definitly fit 20s on a protege. After looking at all avalible tires, it looks like the biggest wheels we can fit on a protege would be a 19 inch with a 215/35/19 tire....now would I ever do this? Not in a million years...I personally think it looks rediculus but if someone wanted to, they'd be able to use this tire size on a 19x7.5 inch +50 offset wheel and have absolutly no rubbing problems. Again, I'm not trying to flame you FuNwaGoN, or be an ass about it. I just want everyone out there to have the correct info.

Shawn
 
Section 8 said:
That being said, it's all moot because the CP8-R is only avalibe in a four lug, civic fitment and is not available for our proteges.

actually that wheel will fit only the DX and LX protege's. unfortunately not the ES, MP3, and P5. but i have an LX and plan to get these in black in the future.
 
I'm not sure on the offset required for the protege DX and LX but if they are the same specs as the ES, MP3 or Protege 5, then the RH Evo CP8R will not work on your car. Even though the bolt pattern is the same (4x100) the offset a protege needs is very different from that of a civic. It will bolt up fine, but you will have severe rubbing.

Shawn
 
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