Muff, while that looks like positive camber, I would be pretty certain that the suspension actually gains negative camber as it cycles up in its travel. It just doesn't gain enough camber to overcome the angle relative to the ground generated by the massive body roll. If you measured against what would be level on the chassis, I'd bet it still gains some negative camber.
Protege 18s Rub, HELP!! Aftermarket struts needed?????
- Thread starter xDJ DUBx
- Start date
the camber changes relative to the the strut when you lower the car, thus the tire will not get any closer to the strut no matter how low you drop it or how hard you turn. The sidewall may flex into the side of the strut on an extremely hard turn with max grip, but the wheel, hub, knuckle, strut will not move, PERIOD
100% true...If its not touching while your stopped..Its not touching at all.
I don't know how mine ended up with so much negative camber... unless it just had even more at stock height, and reduced somewhat when I lowered it (but still clearly negative when lowered.)Protege: Check.
Compression: Check.
Positive camber: Check.
The rear's not as obvious, but you've got a clear, head on view to the front tire (note the sidewall flex. Kind of a cool pic of what you're tires are doing mid-corner)
I don't know how else to put it lol. There's a reason that double wish bone suspensions are generally favored over MacStruts for performance applications...
The front of your car sure does look to have a good deal of positive camber, although the overall pitch from the body roll and the steering rack geometry may have contributed to the acute angle we see in the picture.
I would imagine that you know more about suspensions than I do, so I wouldn't doubt if I was wrong.
MSP2003.5_Nick
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - Dark Silver
This has turned into such a huge discussion. There is something wonky going on because I have 18x8 rx-8s and I'm tuckin them no problem. Its gotta be tire size thats the only obvious thing that is wrong
true, but you don't measure camber against the chassis. I've been referring to the way the alignment changes with suspension movement. That tire has positive camber (ie, if you could stop the car in time and put it on an alignment rack, it'd be positive). Camber is measured against the road surface...
*sigh* again with the stationary. Static vs dynamic. Suspensions don't 'work' in a static environment. You can't just look at how it is when it sits still, you have to know how travel (ie real world physics) acts on that suspension.
Anyway, I'm done with this lol
Miata. It gains camber through suspension compression. Most double wishbone cars do. I've got rub marks on the inside of my inner fender liner from where the tire tilted in and hit the inside of the bodywork lol. Similar circumstances: braking, turning, full suspension load. Of course, I had the car a smidge too low at the time, but that's neither here nor there.
CrazyCaker
Member
- :
- '10 Stang GT / '06 Mazda5 GT
The tire size is obviously wrong. How did this turn into a 3 page debate about it?
Sorry there kemosabe, it's measured against the road surface as long as the car and surface are level. The road surface is used only as an extension of the level attitude of the car.
Whatever...
fourthmeal
Banned
The solution to find out exactly what is going on is as I stated before:
Chalk the tire (take a piece of chalk and rub it into the tire tread and sidewalls until you've got a pretty much white tire), and have a bunch of people hop and move around in the back of the carseat. Then, get everyone out, and pull the tire. The marks you've left on the fenders or elsewhere are your trouble spots.
Chalk the tire (take a piece of chalk and rub it into the tire tread and sidewalls until you've got a pretty much white tire), and have a bunch of people hop and move around in the back of the carseat. Then, get everyone out, and pull the tire. The marks you've left on the fenders or elsewhere are your trouble spots.
Yeah..I totally understand this..But the pic you show doesnt help your cause here....The car has far too much roll in that pic to say "LOOK...YOu can clearly see it right there" Because...no you can not....If the pic was shot from a rear angle as a car hit a heavy dip and the supension compressed...Then you could use it...Your pic is garbage to prove your point...However..It does look cool.
LOL.
you're going to gain "Negative" camber from suspension compression, but you'll gain "Positive" camber from suspension roll - trying to balance the two is where suspension tuning becomes a "Black Art." you'll need to know the roll centers for the front and rear, roll stiffness for the front and rear, you'll need the camber curves for all four corners, etc...
I run a Nitto Neo Gen 215/40/18 on my Enkie Evo-5's (+45) with no rubbing on my MSP with a car load.
So you can run that size, you just can't be lowered too much.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
He has 225/40's
