Oil Change Tips

[Pro5Lani]

Fram sucks? I've always used Fram. Fram in my 1st gen and in my P5, nothing's wrong. Performance loss or something?

Anyway, all the advice is pretty good. That oil filter wrench is pretty good, comes in handy.

 

[mogi]

Fram tends to use really bad internals, unless you get their Ultra Guard or whatever (the $6 filter). Other than that, they are pretty much cardboard inside...

I've run fram a few times, they seem to be ok if you don't push your car hard at all. I used a purlator on my last change, and am now running an Amsoil brand filter (supposedly good for 12.5k miles or 6 months. Going to probably do an oil analisys soon to see how things are holding up in there

 

[solid_snake]

sorry for th thread jack
[threadjack begins]what oil grade should i use in my 40k miles Tribute??
Thanks
[threadjack ends]

 

[Douggie]

sorry for th thread jack
[threadjack begins]what oil grade should i use in my 40k miles Tribute??
Thanks
[threadjack ends]

Definitely go for synthetic if you love your car.

10w-30 will be fine if u're in FL.

 

[digitalricepape]

yeah if youve gotten your oil changed by dealers or other shops they tend to tighten the hell out of the oil pan bolt and the filter, so the first time you try to remove it may take some strength.

 

[solid_snake]

yeah if youve gotten your oil changed by dealers or other shops they tend to tighten the hell out of the oil pan bolt and the filter, so the first time you try to remove it may take some strength.

damn..
Thanks
I would love to go synthetic, but currently in out of $$$ and the oil needs to be changed ASAP, i just bought some Castrol GTX 10W-30 as you recommended

yeah, i need 5.5 quarts of oil...

 

[Douggie]

damn..
Thanks
I would love to go synthetic, but currently in out of $$$ and the oil needs to be changed ASAP, i just bought some Castrol GTX 10W-30 as you recommended

yeah, i need 5.5 quarts of oil...

Regular oil is fine. It's more important to change it regularly than picking/arguing about which is the "better" oil.

 

[solid_snake]

i also forgot to mention i got the "factory" filter... but i don't see any mazda logo or name on it

 

[wildo]

i have always put in a quart of slick 50 with my oil change. sure makes changes expensive, but i autocross this car, and typically drive it very hard.... just a thought

 

[AceProtege]

good info in this thread........

i use synthetic and as stated below, usually rotate my tires when i change my oil.......

 

[aMaff]

i have always put in a quart of slick 50 with my oil change. sure makes changes expensive, but i autocross this car, and typically drive it very hard.... just a thought

slick 50?

 

[mogi]

it is an oil additive that helps to protect the internal components, I usually dump some in when I buy a new car and do the first oil change
you really don't need to dump it in every time for normal driving, more like once every few years

 

[aMaff]

Where can u get it / how much? Also, the dipstick reads full, would it do any damage if I put it in, and would it even be worth it. I ask b/c I also drive fairly agressively, and I do auto-x my car

 

[JCell]

u mean straight 50?

 

[BradC]

Drain the oil when the motor/oil is hot too. It will drain more completely.

 

[mogi]

no, it is not straight 50, slick 50, you can get it pretty much anywhere oil is sold
NO, you cannot just add it in to your existing oil, you should add it in place of a quart when you do a change.

 

[aMaff]

ok, and ok. Does it work w/ synthetic?

 

[mogi]

read the box, but should work with it

here's their website: http://slick50.com/

 

[P-Funk!]

A few more tips:

Remove the oil cap before draining -it helps drain faster.

If you do jack - jack from the 'lump' on the driver's side - use a jack stand. You will crawl back on the passenger side.

You *can* get two hands on the filter to turn a tough one! Left hand straight up and also reach through the opening near the inner fender with your right hand...

Put a thin bead of oil on the new filter gasket.

Write with a Sharpie[tm] pen on the inside of the windshield to note the next change mileage & rotate mileage.

If on ramps - try to have the car pointing downhill to put on the ramps - on level ground the car is 'uphill' at an angle - and the oil can't drain out all the way. also, bounce the car up and down a few times when it stops flowing - it will cause a little more to come out...

Clean the PCV valve with carb cleaner & shake dry real good.

Check all other fluids.

Don't be a d1ck and drain it on the ground! Take to recycle place! Recycle the bottles too.

Kitty litter is GREAT for cleaning up spills. Grind it into the spot and sweep up

If you don' have a funnel - cut the top half off an oil bottle and use it (upside down) V eh?

Lastly, start the car and look underneath for any leaks - takes only a moment - could save your engine...

 

[mogi]

I disagree on the ramps issue. You should do it on level ground and raise the front of the car!
Jack stands raise the front of the car as well, it helps to angle the oil pan toward the drain nut. Jacking up your car/putting it on ramps on a down hill is just plain nutso!