Bluesparx07
Member
- :
- 2004 mazda 6 s sedan
well I will get my introduction out of the way, My name is Dan, Im 25, Live in montana and am currently enlisted in the montana national guard. I work nights at walmart and do spot jobs as in Uhaul moving jobs,landscaping and I work on all my own cars as much as deemed possible.
this is one of the newest cars Ive owned so please forgive me if I am lacking knowledge of any sort, as I have had no formal auto repair training, only going off what I've learned doing repairs and modifications to my own previous or current vehicles.
on to the car information
2004, mazda 6 S, 5spd
I am hoping the problems are easy fixes but I have yet to get its computer ran by the mechanic or myself(if I decide to buy a code reader).
The check engine light is on and I plan on getting it scanned one way or another. but currently the two major issues I am experiencing during daily driving are as follows and I was just wondering where to start until I get it scanned. I am putting them in order of complexity.
THE FIRST PROBLEM IS MY PRIMARY CONCERN
1. The cars traction loss and TCS off lights come on and the tach goes to zero RPM but the motor keeps running fine. This happens when I come to a stop at a light or am parked, occasionally it has been on while on the highway but not every time. And this only happens after the car is warmed up, It doesnt do this at all when I first turn it on and drive for about ten fifteen minutes. Also the car will die occasionally after warmed up, mainly after reversing and going from reverse to first gear.
when I am at a stop sign and the tach goes to zero rpm all I have to do is tap the gas and its like the computer comes out of this type of sleep mode and the motor revs up a bit then idles okay at stop for like 3 seconds then repeats the issue.
the car idles at like 700rpm after warm which seems normal enough, when its not dumping the tach to 0rpm the idle fluctuates 100 rpm like the tcs is cutting power to the motor.
Question : do these cars have rain sensors in the case the road is wet the traction loss car symbol comes on? Could it be the idle air control?
Other thoughts : I have turned the TCS off and this still happens, also If I keep my foot on the gas just enough to keep it about 1000rpm the car doesnt do this.
2: the rear suspension is lower than the front and the driver rear is lower than the passenger rear. Thus the rear tires rub, the left more than the right.
I went to les schwab and he concluded that since the car has a lowering kit on it that the tires are just to tall and thats why they were rubbing.so he went ahead and ordered new tires, I however looked the car over when I got home and the gap between the top of the wheel well is significantly lower than the front compared to the rear.
Question : So would this be blown out shocks? because my truck has a bad shock on the front driver side and it is lower on the driver side, could it just be because of the mileage and if they didn't put aftermarket shocks on the car when lowering it that the ride height wore the oem ones out much faster from being more compressed all the time, then again my truck doesn't rely on springs to hold the ride height like the mazda so I am now assuming the springs are bent from just being junky lowering springs.
thanks for any info or resources any of ya might have and also the location of the TCS sensor(s) would be awesome so I could check wiring and other crucial things like possible dirty sensors.
-Dan
this is one of the newest cars Ive owned so please forgive me if I am lacking knowledge of any sort, as I have had no formal auto repair training, only going off what I've learned doing repairs and modifications to my own previous or current vehicles.
on to the car information
2004, mazda 6 S, 5spd
I am hoping the problems are easy fixes but I have yet to get its computer ran by the mechanic or myself(if I decide to buy a code reader).
The check engine light is on and I plan on getting it scanned one way or another. but currently the two major issues I am experiencing during daily driving are as follows and I was just wondering where to start until I get it scanned. I am putting them in order of complexity.
THE FIRST PROBLEM IS MY PRIMARY CONCERN
1. The cars traction loss and TCS off lights come on and the tach goes to zero RPM but the motor keeps running fine. This happens when I come to a stop at a light or am parked, occasionally it has been on while on the highway but not every time. And this only happens after the car is warmed up, It doesnt do this at all when I first turn it on and drive for about ten fifteen minutes. Also the car will die occasionally after warmed up, mainly after reversing and going from reverse to first gear.
when I am at a stop sign and the tach goes to zero rpm all I have to do is tap the gas and its like the computer comes out of this type of sleep mode and the motor revs up a bit then idles okay at stop for like 3 seconds then repeats the issue.
the car idles at like 700rpm after warm which seems normal enough, when its not dumping the tach to 0rpm the idle fluctuates 100 rpm like the tcs is cutting power to the motor.
Question : do these cars have rain sensors in the case the road is wet the traction loss car symbol comes on? Could it be the idle air control?
Other thoughts : I have turned the TCS off and this still happens, also If I keep my foot on the gas just enough to keep it about 1000rpm the car doesnt do this.
2: the rear suspension is lower than the front and the driver rear is lower than the passenger rear. Thus the rear tires rub, the left more than the right.
I went to les schwab and he concluded that since the car has a lowering kit on it that the tires are just to tall and thats why they were rubbing.so he went ahead and ordered new tires, I however looked the car over when I got home and the gap between the top of the wheel well is significantly lower than the front compared to the rear.
Question : So would this be blown out shocks? because my truck has a bad shock on the front driver side and it is lower on the driver side, could it just be because of the mileage and if they didn't put aftermarket shocks on the car when lowering it that the ride height wore the oem ones out much faster from being more compressed all the time, then again my truck doesn't rely on springs to hold the ride height like the mazda so I am now assuming the springs are bent from just being junky lowering springs.
thanks for any info or resources any of ya might have and also the location of the TCS sensor(s) would be awesome so I could check wiring and other crucial things like possible dirty sensors.
-Dan
