Must Have: Turbo Accessories..

KzA

Member
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2001 Yellow Protege Mp3-T
I plan on purchasing a spoolin stage 2 kit(not 3 cuz dont have the cash just yet)....what would you guys say is a MUST HAVE to buy after the turbo...some things I thought of..

clutch(ACT)
flywheel(since they are doin the clutch)
boost gauge
A/F Gauge
EGT gauge?
turbo Timer*
boost controller*

*I know the turbo timer and the boost controller arent SUPER necessary, but Im sure they are very nice things to have...

Also, a few questions....(Terry) How much is it to upgrade to a Tial wastegate for the stage 2 kit? Which BOV would you suggest?

Lastly, does anyone have an idea of the cost to get the manifold chromed?

Thanks!
 
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U should get the greddy type s bov its awesome! U dont really need a flywheel, and about the manifold i think its a couple hundred more. Ur forgetting the a/f ratio meter.
 
Exhaust too, I have been slowly getting together my turbo accesories too. i also am gonna buy the stage 2 first then later upgrade, it sound as if the stage 1&2 have pretty nice power so im sure that will be adequate for now. I ordered motormounts, and this weekend im ordering my clutch and flywheel
www.rr-racing.com seems to have the best prices for Clutch and flywheels. I think the Tial is $85 and the greddy type S bov is $130 but dont quote me on that i'd PM terry if i were you he will send you a list of the prices.
 
so do you guys think the EGT is necessary? or is this just a alternate to the turbo timer(to see when it cools to a certain degree before shutdown)
 
The EGT and a turbo timer are totally different things. You don't need a turbo timer at all actually. You need an EGT so you can see how rich or lean the cylinders are. The hotter it is, the more lean they are, the more cooler, the more rich.
 
no the egt is for when u r driving to see if u r running lean or rich
a/f ratio is for 1,2,3 gear and egt is for when u r hauling some ass through 4,5 gears if ur egt reads 700 or more than ur running lean the cooler the better but pm terry he knows exactly
 
No, EGT is for any gear. An air/fuel ratio meter is just a pretty flashing light decoration that isn't as accurate as you need it to be.
 
The problem with egt's are they are not good for partial throttle because they are tricky to read. The needle/probe are lazier than ones RPM's in lower gears such as first subsequently not giving an accurate reading. EGT's work great in higher gears such as 3,4 and 5 because the rpm sweep is not as fast due to the increased resistance on the motor and the EGT needle will not have to play catch up giving it a fairly accurate picture of ones A/F ratio. But at partial throttle like stated before its a bit difficult to get a dead on A/F reading. Thats where a good A/F gauge comes in. These work good on partial throttle apps.......The ideal monitoring tool would be a wideband o2 that has labratory type accuracy and gives the the A/F at partial and full with dead on accuracy. Expect to pay 700-1000 for a wideband.
 
If you want to creep over 200hp, you should get a stronger pressure plate though. The stock one only has 180lbs of clamping force I think. You can get a pressure plate for under $200. But you might as well get all of it at the same time.
 
Man I already have the money for the spool stage 2 kit, so once here Im focusing now on quality upgrades like the blow off and security and reliability (intercooler, timing control).
You know, gathering information, etc...
I have to, cause I know Im a Heavy footer...hehehe i even try launch hard everytime I see anyone launching harder than me, doesnt matter who is, old men/women...its like, I need free lanes in front of me.
But, I love my car and myself, so... I dont do street racing (i let off @80mph aprox.)

So...Terry help me and KzA, customize our setup for a great price.;)
 
lets make this short and sweet, cause I'm going stage III this summer, I'm going to have a dual gauge pillar pod, with my turbo, what gauge should be in it? My guess is this-

(Boost)
(A/F)
 
A good air/fuel gauge is the Greddy unit. Proven to be within .3 of a wideband and then once you get it on a dyno you can calibrate it to the wideband on the dyno and its just as accurate pretty much.....its pricey though close to 300 bucks this is the unit i'm using.
 
ok..so with all this hullabaloo...what would you suggest? the A/F over the EGT? both?

Abot the flywheel...I was never under the assumption that it was necessary..I have just read that it is a good purchase when getting a new clutch, since the tranny will be open and you can save labor charge..
 
And having a ~200whp fwd vehicle, traction will be a problem anyway, so wouldn't a lighter flywheel add to that fire since it helps the engine rev faster?
 
hooooly toleto...I didnt realize Gauges were so much cash!!....Ok...so my 3 gauges are Boost, Air/Fuel, and EGT...Now, would you say all gauges are absolutely imperitive to a turbo install? What could I live without immediately? They are all $180 and over!!
 
chdesign said:
A good air/fuel gauge is the Greddy unit. Proven to be within .3 of a wideband and then once you get it on a dyno you can calibrate it to the wideband on the dyno and its just as accurate pretty much.....its pricey though close to 300 bucks this is the unit i'm using.

Plus it uses its own O2 Sensor. That is the one I have but waitng for my downpipe so i can weld in a bung.

Any EGT's man function is to see if you are having any problems in the motor in general. There could be many reasons why your car would run higher EGT's. A/F gauge is what u want for reading your A/f which is a very good idea on an aftermarket setup. The Reason they dance around is cause at partial throttle they are in closed loop function. They are Acurate at WOT. Another gauge is an Oil Pressure gauge. Good idea. I would say the First one is a Boost Gauge. Electrical is a little more acc. and responsive but u pay more (also easier to mount IMO). No joke I've spent over $600 on gauges so far!!!
 
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