Interesting shock and bushing story!

[markuszoom5]

After about 18000 miles I started noticing my car fishtailing and making lots of noises in the back. I also notice a puddle of oil in my garage. I did not think nothing of it because I could not see any oil on the shocks. So I went to the dealer. As soon as they lifted the car up and took the weight off the tires, lo and behold the oil is leaking out of the shocks. They replaced the shocks thinking everything is fine. The noises were better but they were still there. So the dealer mechanic took it back in and replaced the bushings. Now the car is awesomely quiet but it is also stiff as a board in the back. I hope that softens up a little. The OEM Mazda bushings are like rocks. Holy crap are they stiff. The old ones were all cracked and worn. I don't understand why the rear end fails so quickly. I hape I don't have to go through another set of shock after another 18000 miles. We will see.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Upgrade the shocks to something with better damping so they don't blow out later. The 5 comes with the 3's shocks from the factory, which are too weak to handle the 5's weight! Bushings should soften up a little bit after installation.

 

[njaremka]

Syracuse... Driver's Village? that's where we bought our 5

when the rear stock dampers on our 5 go out again, i'm replacing them with koni yellows. i might also try to sneak some stiffer springs in there too.

 

[Robotazky]

After about 18000 miles I started noticing my car fishtailing and making lots of noises in the back. I also notice a puddle of oil in my garage. I did not think nothing of it because I could not see any oil on the shocks. So I went to the dealer. As soon as they lifted the car up and took the weight off the tires, lo and behold the oil is leaking out of the shocks. They replaced the shocks thinking everything is fine. The noises were better but they were still there. So the dealer mechanic took it back in and replaced the bushings. Now the car is awesomely quiet but it is also stiff as a board in the back. I hope that softens up a little. The OEM Mazda bushings are like rocks. Holy crap are they stiff. The old ones were all cracked and worn. I don't understand why the rear end fails so quickly. I hape I don't have to go through another set of shock after another 18000 miles. We will see.

Markus, you're learning about cars right now. That's why it doesn't all make sense.

In 10-20 years, all of these experiences that are freaking you out won't even get your attention.

The back is stiff because it's a Mazda. If it was mushy crap with no handling, it would qualify as a Toyota/Nissan/Honda. Take your pick. Just be glad it's fixed and driving like it should.

As for monitoring it for future changes; life's short. Don't let the shocks distract you.

 

[markuszoom5]

Right!

Thank you very much-o Mr. Robotaz. You are right when you said life is short, don't let the shocks distract you. I am not anymore. They are not noisy and the car is stable. I already got used to the stiffness. Now, I can't help though but be distracted when the shocks failed the first time and the car was fishtailing over every minor bump, especially when turning. But now all that is gone. Now, I have an important question for you. Do you think that the fishtailing and the clunking of the shocks, let's say I was driving 1,000 miles like that, could have messed up the rear alignment. I mean I don't see any cupping with the naked eye. What do you think? Thanks.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Do you think that the fishtailing and the clunking of the shocks, let's say I was driving 1,000 miles like that, could have messed up the rear alignment. I mean I don't see any cupping with the naked eye. What do you think? Thanks.

It most definitely would have had an effect on tire wear, but maybe not anything you would see after only 1000 miles. A blown shock usually shows up on tires as intermittent wear since it can't control the up/down motion of the wheel- like every other tread block wearing one way and the others wearing another. Here's a decent guide:

 

[markuszoom5]

Thanks a lot Robotaz

It most definitely would have had an effect on tire wear, but maybe not anything you would see after only 1000 miles. A blown shock usually shows up on tires as intermittent wear since it can't control the up/down motion of the wheel- like every other tread block wearing one way and the others wearing another. Here's a decent guide:

That makes perfect sense. My tires do not appear to have any of that. Also no cupping as I have rotated them every 5k. I knew about the tire rating issue. I am trying to avoid it. Is 35 psi ok or should you really stick to the factory 34psi. Makes me think about it as I saw the picture you posted.

 

[phunky.buddha]

That makes perfect sense. My tires do not appear to have any of that. Also no cupping as I have rotated them every 5k. I knew about the tire rating issue. I am trying to avoid it. Is 35 psi ok or should you really stick to the factory 34psi. Makes me think about it as I saw the picture you posted.

Honestly, I never run the factory recommended tire pressures- I'm always over. I go for feel and best contact patch- so I'll take some fast corners and see what pressure feels best for me based on sidewall deflection, then measure tire wear over time to see if I'm overinflated. Checks on tread depth and temperature across the tread helps to determine pressure too.



But I ran 39psi cold in my 205/50-17 Bridgestone G019s and my 215/50-17 Michelin MXM4s, and currently run 38psi cold on the Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 235/45-17.

 

[Moosep]

Shocks should last a minimum of 50,000 to 80,000 miles. The shocks on the Mazda5 do not.

For those who have gone to the Koni's, are they getting better service life or not? I'm trying to find out whether there is a rear-end solution, or whether I should just dump the car. I like the design from the deck up, but the rear end suspension is a mess.

 

[SandmanXP]

Shocks should last a minimum of 50,000 to 80,000 miles. The shocks on the Mazda5 do not.

QFT

For those who have gone to the Koni's, are they getting better service life or not?

I'd like to hear from people who have had Konis for a while, too. I've only had them for a few months, but part of the reason I bothered was because I assumed they'd last longer than OEM.

 

[Silentnoise713]

You're covered.

The KONI warranty is a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser against defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own that car registered for street use.

that said, Bilsteins all the way (same warranty)

 

[Robotazky]

Thank you very much-o Mr. Robotaz. You are right when you said life is short, don't let the shocks distract you. I am not anymore. They are not noisy and the car is stable. I already got used to the stiffness. Now, I can't help though but be distracted when the shocks failed the first time and the car was fishtailing over every minor bump, especially when turning. But now all that is gone. Now, I have an important question for you. Do you think that the fishtailing and the clunking of the shocks, let's say I was driving 1,000 miles like that, could have messed up the rear alignment. I mean I don't see any cupping with the naked eye. What do you think? Thanks.

You're fine. Rotate every 5,000 if you want to be really safe and check for oil draining from the shocks while the tire's off. Hang some tight curves and enjoy the new shocks.

As long as you change your oil when it's dirty, rotate your tires, flush the tranny every 25K (my opinion), change the plugs at 75K like the manual says, look for leaks and abnormal wear, etc, you should find the 5 to be a very good car. People do bring up some gremlins every now and then, but other than the rear shocks and the bushings, these cars have a great history. Personally, I think rear shocks and bushings are nothing. Lots of cars have way, way bigger gremlins in their past. Now if you are paying a high percentage of income for your 5, any repairs will hurt. I realize that. But, the maintenance on these, in my opinion and from my 23 years of driving, is minimal.

*EDIT* I forgot the air filter. Check it every 10K and use the OEM filter. I think they are really good filters. They almost remind me of the Civic Si OEMs. Those are oiled. Insane value for the money. The 5 has a great filter, too.

 

[Franzy]

I have a question in line with the original question.

I'm at just over 56K with my 2006. My stock springs are s***. I am not gonna lower my 5. I keep looking for replacements of the stock springs, maybe even a bit stiffer. Everytime I look into the details of a spring though, they only keep identifying that the spring is made for "lowering". Does anybody have an idea on what I can get to replace these crappy springs?

It's really driving me nuts.
Thanks in advance guys.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Just about every stiffer spring on the market (for pretty much any car) is going to be an aftermarket lowering spring. You could spec out a set of Swift/Hyperco springs in the rates and lengths that you want to maintain the stock ride height but at a higher/stiffer spring rate- or maybe use coil spring spacers on stiffer lowering springs to raise the car back to stock height? I might just take my stock springs to the suspension shop up in Plano and have them measure the spring rates for me- then it would be easy to calculate what spring length/rate would be required to stay at the stock height.

 

[mazdadude]

I have a question in line with the original question.

I'm at just over 56K with my 2006. My stock springs are s***. I am not gonna lower my 5. I keep looking for replacements of the stock springs, maybe even a bit stiffer. Everytime I look into the details of a spring though, they only keep identifying that the spring is made for "lowering". Does anybody have an idea on what I can get to replace these crappy springs?

It's really driving me nuts.
Thanks in advance guys.

Why are you thinking that your springs are shot?

 

[Dave88LX]

You're covered.

that said, Bilsteins all the way (same warranty)

But does Bilstein make shocks for this car? I see B4 struts, no shocks.

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mmid=204359/drivetype=FWD

 

[Secondtyme]

So what I am gathering here is that some (maybe all) of my rear end rattle rattle bang-bang could just be shot bushings? My shocks are, strangley enough, not shot, and my sway bar bushings are fine, but the rattle-palooza continues unabated. I'm going Koni Yellow all the way around when the time comes BTW

 

[Franzy]

Why are you thinking that your springs are shot?

Sorry for the long delay. Have not checked back for some time. To be clear, I just think they are s***. Maybe they are shot... maybe not; maybe the initial spring rate is just too soft... the issue can be expressed in several ways. We routinely put a little more weight in our vehicle. I have tools that I take with me always. This accounts for about 100 - 150lbs in the 3rd seat cargo area. This drops the level of the car, increases the camber, and even increases the sway sometimes. As a van hybrid, this should have been something they accounted for, like they finally did for the 2013's. I have already put the SPC rear camber adjusters on the back wheels. After the suspension settles, it is still too much camber in my opinion, at least on my 5.

So I am expressly looking for 2 things:
1) A firmer springrate, ie... a stiffer overall springrate. This would help in the higher loads and sway, especially when I pull a trailer.
2) This spring must be for an UN-LOWERED / STOCK suspension. I'd even be OK with it leaving the ride at even a tad bit higher stance.

 

[rodslinger]

But does Bilstein make shocks for this car? I see B4 struts, no shocks.

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mmid=204359/drivetype=FWD

Not specifically but they do make a rear shock for the Volvo S40. Seems unrelated but I researched these in the past and the only difference I found was the overall extended length was about 1" shorter (1/2" shorter compressed). End mounts were the same as the 5 so it should be a direct bolt in. Might be an option for a lowered 5.

 

[kw_da]

Check this thread out http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123827975-Upgrade-on-2006-rear-suspension-to-2012

Davicho put 2012 springs on his Mazda 5 and seems to like them.

Sorry for the long delay. Have not checked back for some time. To be clear, I just think they are s***. Maybe they are shot... maybe not; maybe the initial spring rate is just too soft... the issue can be expressed in several ways. We routinely put a little more weight in our vehicle. I have tools that I take with me always. This accounts for about 100 - 150lbs in the 3rd seat cargo area. This drops the level of the car, increases the camber, and even increases the sway sometimes. As a van hybrid, this should have been something they accounted for, like they finally did for the 2013's. I have already put the SPC rear camber adjusters on the back wheels. After the suspension settles, it is still too much camber in my opinion, at least on my 5.

So I am expressly looking for 2 things:
1) A firmer springrate, ie... a stiffer overall springrate. This would help in the higher loads and sway, especially when I pull a trailer.
2) This spring must be for an UN-LOWERED / STOCK suspension. I'd even be OK with it leaving the ride at even a tad bit higher stance.