So my forge wga came in today, it looks like a great piece and i can't wait to get it put on. However, in the literature supplied with it, it strongly cautions against using a vacuum source from the manifold to connect to the wga, saying instead it should be from the compressor cover of the turbo or from the hot side intercooler piping.... now the stock setup runs from the manifold, i know i don't have any fittings on my IC pipes to do this, is there by chance a capped off spot to do this on the turbo compressor cover?? How have those of you that installed the forge unit connected yours??
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Forge Wastegate Actuator question
- Thread starter jmv
- Start date
i dunno, i guess if other people have had good luck with that. I dunno how much of a difference it will actually make.
The only easy way i could see attaching it in the recommended place would be if i could get a tee on the hose running the BPV on the hotside, but that would require a tee thats 1"x1"x3/16" or something, and i doubt i can find that.
The only easy way i could see attaching it in the recommended place would be if i could get a tee on the hose running the BPV on the hotside, but that would require a tee thats 1"x1"x3/16" or something, and i doubt i can find that.
Even though I'm only using the ATP replacement my vacuum source is right off the turbo (not tapped into the housing but on the first bend of the hotpipt). I don't remember why but I swaer I remember reading somewhere that this was the best location for a wastegate actuator source. Mine has given me no problems and it's been there for 1.5 years.
depending on where u put it, it will act differently.
i have been told that the best place is on the cold pipe right b4 the TB. putting it on the manifold causes spikes, and putting it on the hot pipe, although its the most reliable way, usually means u boost less
i have been told that the best place is on the cold pipe right b4 the TB. putting it on the manifold causes spikes, and putting it on the hot pipe, although its the most reliable way, usually means u boost less
okay.... i'd like to put it in the recommended place, but i don't know how to get it there.... with hardpipes i don't think that would exactly be an easy task. I don't know how to or have access to any kind of welder. Would there be a way to put a fitting on at one of the silicone couplers and still keep a good seal?? That would be the only way i could think of.
Then again, with the ATP replacement run to the manifold, i never really had any issues with spiking so maybe this one would do okay too. I think it might be a different internal design though than the ATP or stocker, but i'm not sure.
Then again, with the ATP replacement run to the manifold, i never really had any issues with spiking so maybe this one would do okay too. I think it might be a different internal design though than the ATP or stocker, but i'm not sure.
4
43975
Mine is running from where the stock one was running from. I have zero issues!
I think i may try just running it from the manifold, and see if i have any spike issues when i hopefully get to my goal of 10 psi. If anything seems less than satisfactory, i'll try moving the source to somewhere on the intercooler piping and see how that works out.
pm citizen, he had it on his car
i did, haven't heard back from him.
and speed 1016, i haven't put this on yet, i'm not gonna do it till saturday when i can get at a garage floor and certain tools, but when i did my ATP replacement it was a pain, i figure this to be about the same.
well i got it put on.... my boost hits a spike at about 5.5 psi, holds at 4 till near redline where it backs off. I guess i need to adjust the arm shorter, but that still doesn't make sense that it would be spiking and trailing off like that. The car also is still acting like theres a leak sometimes at idle, and i have no idea where it would be coming from. I checked everything i could think of when discovering the old wga was bad.
Also, i started out trying it with the stock vac line setup, and when i got those results i shoved one side of a vac tee through the rubber hose on the pressurized side of the BPV tubing, put some gasket sealer on it and ran it to the wga, so it was setup as per Forge's instructions, and i had the same results.
Also, i started out trying it with the stock vac line setup, and when i got those results i shoved one side of a vac tee through the rubber hose on the pressurized side of the BPV tubing, put some gasket sealer on it and ran it to the wga, so it was setup as per Forge's instructions, and i had the same results.
4
43975
I'm not sure of your mods but, my plan is to run a dedicated line to the BOV from the Brake booster line, then run a dedicated line to the WGA from the stock location on the Mani.
Well i tried the stock line setup from the intake mani, although forge cautions against sourcing from the mani.... so i set it up with a dedicated line from the hotside piping to the WGA, and a dedicated line from the mani to the BPV, and still had all the same problems.
Jaysanooch
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Msp
well i got it put on.... my boost hits a spike at about 5.5 psi, holds at 4 till near redline where it backs off. I guess i need to adjust the arm shorter, but that still doesn't make sense that it would be spiking and trailing off like that. The car also is still acting like theres a leak sometimes at idle, and i have no idea where it would be coming from. I checked everything i could think of when discovering the old wga was bad.
K wait...just to make sure, what symptoms did you have to make you change the wga? And how much WERE you boosting before you figured your wga was the problem?
Also, i started out trying it with the stock vac line setup, and when i got those results i shoved one side of a vac tee through the rubber hose on the pressurized side of the BPV tubing, put some gasket sealer on it and ran it to the wga, so it was setup as per Forge's instructions, and i had the same results.
WTF? This can't be good or helping.
Listen for some reason I'm thinking you've had a bad BPV all along....and it's not holding your boost. I also think you have a vacuum leak near the bpv...since your mentioning the weird idle.
Are you running the hardpipes? Silicones couplers? what type of clamps? Have you checked your vacuum lines...they get brittle and crack over time. Leave the WGA for now and check the BPV...try swapping with someone...
I changed the wastegate actuator, not because of any issues with the boost side of things, but because it wouldn't hold any vacuum. It sealed up fine under pressure, didn't leak out, but for some reason it wouldn't hold ANY vacuum, just made a big leak. This also caused the BPV (teed from the same line, just like the stock setup) not to see a good vacuum and therefore not function right, causing compressor surge. With the ATP wga, i was at 6.5 to 7 psi.
I've got a Boost Sciences RDV valve, and after checking it out, i'm convinced it was working fine. I hooked it up to a vacuum pump and it held open just like it should've. I rigged up the vac-tee-through-the-hose thing for the wga thinking i was having issues because i hooked it up the way forge said NOT to do it, and the way its set up now satisfies their requirements (boost source in between turbo and intercooler), and it ran exactly the same as when it was sourced from the mani in the stock location and setup. I've got hardpipes, silicone couplers, regular hose clamps for the IC stuff, and silicone vac lines nearly all the way throughout. The car has started to have a good idle, i don't know why it was acting up when i first put in the new wastegate, but it seems like its adjusted itself and is actually idling pretty well right now. The cars main problem right now is low boost, and its also sometimes inconsistant... sometimes i'll hit 4.5 psi, sometimes i'm at 3 psi, usually always accompanied by a spike to 5 psi. I'm going to try adjusting the arm shorter and see how, if any, the boost pattern is affected when it gets more into the 'stock' boost range.
One thing that does concern me is the fact that i've got a rather long vac line to the BPV, due to it being by the bottom passenger side corner of the radiator and the vac line running to the stock location on the intake mani.
I've got a Boost Sciences RDV valve, and after checking it out, i'm convinced it was working fine. I hooked it up to a vacuum pump and it held open just like it should've. I rigged up the vac-tee-through-the-hose thing for the wga thinking i was having issues because i hooked it up the way forge said NOT to do it, and the way its set up now satisfies their requirements (boost source in between turbo and intercooler), and it ran exactly the same as when it was sourced from the mani in the stock location and setup. I've got hardpipes, silicone couplers, regular hose clamps for the IC stuff, and silicone vac lines nearly all the way throughout. The car has started to have a good idle, i don't know why it was acting up when i first put in the new wastegate, but it seems like its adjusted itself and is actually idling pretty well right now. The cars main problem right now is low boost, and its also sometimes inconsistant... sometimes i'll hit 4.5 psi, sometimes i'm at 3 psi, usually always accompanied by a spike to 5 psi. I'm going to try adjusting the arm shorter and see how, if any, the boost pattern is affected when it gets more into the 'stock' boost range.
One thing that does concern me is the fact that i've got a rather long vac line to the BPV, due to it being by the bottom passenger side corner of the radiator and the vac line running to the stock location on the intake mani.
Last edited:
Jaysanooch
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Msp
Give us your complete mod list (under hood)
Can you take a few pictures of your set up?
If your telling us this all started because you couldn't hold proper vacuum....and yet your boost was holding fine, then you went about this the wrong way.
I'm thinking you just haven't found your vacuum leak....possibly your diverter valve or both? In general you want your vacuum lines to be as short as possible...especially the one at the wga to prevent/reduce spikes.
Stop saying a spike of 5psi....your still below stock boost..lol! Take pictures of everything man...maybe someone will notice something that can help.
Can you take a few pictures of your set up?
If your telling us this all started because you couldn't hold proper vacuum....and yet your boost was holding fine, then you went about this the wrong way.
I'm thinking you just haven't found your vacuum leak....possibly your diverter valve or both? In general you want your vacuum lines to be as short as possible...especially the one at the wga to prevent/reduce spikes.
Stop saying a spike of 5psi....your still below stock boost..lol! Take pictures of everything man...maybe someone will notice something that can help.
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