exhaust manifold
- Thread starter MikeES2.0
- Start date
- :
- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
Yours is probably headers not a manifold. the msp manifold has a turbo bolted to it 
so it's a bit different than an es.
There's not a whole lot of choices anymore with manifolds for an MSP.
so it's a bit different than an es.There's not a whole lot of choices anymore with manifolds for an MSP.
Last edited:
Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
maybe he put in a MSP setup?
- :
- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
now that Im thinking about it. If it's coming from the passenger side. It's more than likely the manifold bolts have either loosened, broken off, or completely missing. If they aren't broken, it's just a matter of replacing those bolts. If they are broken off, you may have to drill and tap them out.
The bolts loosening on the passenger side is pretty common on the MSP for some reason.
Thanks for the replies, and sorry yes I did pick up a 03.5 msp. I'm crossing my finger they are just missing. The sound I hear seems to go away after it gets hot, I'm guess this is because everything has expanded from the heat. Any one know of a manifold that might be for sale, let me know. Thanks
Last edited:
Thanks, I seen them. The steedspeed is for an external waste gate I believe and the thunder has a crack and looks Like it has been fixed before. I'm new to the msp world how are those thunder manifolds.
Last edited:
bikingpro5
Member
- :
- 03 Protege5
there is also a few manifolds FS on Toprotege and they would be local to you.
Thanks man, I just tried to join but could not, I'm guessing it's because I'm trying at work.
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege
I would go with the steedspeed or i think theres a gb for the pope making one that looks nice
Take the heatshield off and check your bolts before you lose them. I'd almost guarantee it is just the bolts coming loose. Mine spits them out every 6 mos or so, even went to ARP studs, and they are spit out about as frequently. As soon as I hear a faint tick, I know it is time to tighten them down.
if anything id wait for thepope's manifold. Its a good price and so far he's been making quality products.Check this out P.E.P exhaust manifold from thepope540 http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123810517-GI-Replacement-exhaust-manifold
Well I had a look at it today. First off I broke one of the heat shield bolts �� I notice a missing bolt just like everyone was saying but I couldn't start another bolt. So I put something in the hole just to see if it was missing or broke. And it's my luck the bolt is broken I was like WTF how does this happen. I notice this bolt will be a pain in the ass to fix and a big job.
It's not that hard of a job. I had the same problem myself. Start by draining the coolant from the radiator. Remove your intake and intercooler piping. Remove the fans. Remove the intercooler and radiator. Remove the O2 sensor and heat shield. Remove the coolant and oil lines from the turbo. Remove the vacuum line from the WGA.
There is an O ring you'll want to replace on the turbo side of the oil feed line if you remove that side. You can also remove the line from the block side as well. I removed both and replaced the gasket on the block since it was starting to leak a bit as well.
Now you can remove the remaining bolts from the manifold, don't be alarmed if you break a couple more. Then remove the 3 bolts connecting the S pipe to the J pipe, and have a friend support the manifold and turbo while you remove the support bracket from the S pipe. Then the whole thing should just lift out.
I bought a very cheap bolt extractor kit from harbor freight. You first drill the appropriate size hole into the broken bolt while spraying it with water to keep it and the drill cool. Then you use the extractor bit which sinks into the bolt counter clockwise and then removes the bolt.
Take your time, and it should go smoothly. There is nothing really tricky about it. Once the bolts are out you can reassemble it the way you took it apart. I bought ARP studs but honestly they are nothing special and way overpriced. The OEM bolts are also stupidly priced, but I would imagine ACE hardware has something that would work.
The only kind of tool you'll want that doesn't come in a $50 mechanics set is 3/8" drive allen wrench keys for the oil feed line. Much easier than using standard keys. Also if you go with the ARP studs a deep 12 point 10mm socket is helpful.
There is an O ring you'll want to replace on the turbo side of the oil feed line if you remove that side. You can also remove the line from the block side as well. I removed both and replaced the gasket on the block since it was starting to leak a bit as well.
Now you can remove the remaining bolts from the manifold, don't be alarmed if you break a couple more. Then remove the 3 bolts connecting the S pipe to the J pipe, and have a friend support the manifold and turbo while you remove the support bracket from the S pipe. Then the whole thing should just lift out.
I bought a very cheap bolt extractor kit from harbor freight. You first drill the appropriate size hole into the broken bolt while spraying it with water to keep it and the drill cool. Then you use the extractor bit which sinks into the bolt counter clockwise and then removes the bolt.
Take your time, and it should go smoothly. There is nothing really tricky about it. Once the bolts are out you can reassemble it the way you took it apart. I bought ARP studs but honestly they are nothing special and way overpriced. The OEM bolts are also stupidly priced, but I would imagine ACE hardware has something that would work.
The only kind of tool you'll want that doesn't come in a $50 mechanics set is 3/8" drive allen wrench keys for the oil feed line. Much easier than using standard keys. Also if you go with the ARP studs a deep 12 point 10mm socket is helpful.
Similar Threads and Articles
