Broken Exhaust Manifold?

Ok, so I posted here about 6 months ago about a potential vacuum leak causing a lean code and a wicked "buck" at the top of the rpm band. After more inspection and closer listening, it seems to be a cracked exhaust manifold. It is still stock with close to 150,xxx on it, and of course the heat shield is still on the manifold as well. So, I can't see the crack, but the exhaust noise keeps getting louder and the CEL comes on and off at random. Luckily no "buck" for awhile though. Is this a common failure and what kind of options do I have for replacement? I can't afford a new turbo set-up, so whatever I do will have to work with the tired, stock piece as of now. Insight and suggestions are welcome.
 
Ok, so I posted here about 6 months ago about a potential vacuum leak causing a lean code and a wicked "buck" at the top of the rpm band. After more inspection and closer listening, it seems to be a cracked exhaust manifold. It is still stock with close to 150,xxx on it, and of course the heat shield is still on the manifold as well. So, I can't see the crack, but the exhaust noise keeps getting louder and the CEL comes on and off at random. Luckily no "buck" for awhile though. Is this a common failure and what kind of options do I have for replacement? I can't afford a new turbo set-up, so whatever I do will have to work with the tired, stock piece as of now. Insight and suggestions are welcome.

Incredibly common problem. As long as it's not completely broken into two pieces, you can find someone to repair it by bronze welding it. Otherwise you're looking upwards of $700 for an aftermarket replacement.
 
If the noise is there mostly when the engine is cold as opposed to warmed up, its most likely broken exhaust manifold studs. If and when you fix this problem, check the wastegate actuator for vacuum leak/boost leak--this can cause bucking at top end rpm's AND a p0171 system too lean
 
Jspeed, That sounds just about right. Once the heat breaks and I get in there to inspect things I should have a better idea, but yeah, it does quiet down a bit once warmed up. What would be the best way to check the actuator for the vacuum leak? Carb cleaner while running?
 
Not exactly, i don't think the diaphragm will suck the carb clean in...i would try to get your hands on a vacuum pump with a gauge on it, should be available at NAPA or whatever your major auto parts store is down south...lol
 
I am having the same exact problem with mine. Weird clicking type noise when its cold and slowly goes away when warmed up. Also have the buck problem at high RPM's. I have noticed the noises also coming from underneath the heat shield but my bolt are so rusted I havent been able to take it off yet.

I was just curious if you have been able to take a look at this yet or if you have figured out the solution. I have been trying to fix this for a while now and would love to finally get it fixed.

Also, did you have any other issues such as backfiring or feel like you lost some pickup?
 
Haven't gotten there yet, may tear into it a little this week. Have lost power, or at least it seems the turbo has more lag at times, other times depending on the air temp the car seems to pull as hard as it ever has. The CEL does come on and off at random now. No backfiring though. Just occasionally will die if I throw it into neutral such as coming to a stop sign.
 
Ya you seem to have a couple "typical" problems with this car...lol. You can try cleaning out your EGR valve for the stalling issue
 
Yeah, I attribute that to normal wear and tear with age. It has been a damn good car though. Educational as well, being my first boosted car. Eventually I'll end up with some extra money to throw at it and all shall be good. As long as the turbo doesn't let go before I get that pile of cash built up...thanks for the info, it helps knowing where to start looking...I was about to pull the intake manifold off in order to find that vacuum leak, thinking maybe there was a bad gasket or something.
 
Incredibly common problem. As long as it's not completely broken into two pieces, you can find someone to repair it by bronze welding it. Otherwise you're looking upwards of $700 for an aftermarket replacement.

The pope offers a custom hand built replacment for less then that.
 
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