brakes troubeshooting, help brainstorm...!!

[batou079]

I know, without seeing first hand sometimes it is hard to help diagnose, but i thought id ask in case anyone else had had this kind of issue.

So the other day i did a full brake job, minus the brake lines/fluid change.
Fluid wise i got the brake fluid as well as all fluids changed about 6k miles ago.
The re-install of rotors and new pad install went without a hitch. Everything went back together just great, no fitment issues, no troubles nothing.

I go to test drive, and i get the usual pad/rotor rub that occurs as the brakes adjust/bed.
The issues comes in when i actually start to do some hard braking to try and bed the pads properly... CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK!!!! i get a consistent clunking noise that goes at pace as the car reduces speed and brakes are engaged.

Sounds like passenger side front only, but the really scary part is that i can feel the clunking through the pedal.
As far as i can tell, the braking power works PERFECTLY, grabs great.

But uh. that clunking sounds bad, and feels violent.
dropped the wheels off and gave another visual inspection, even took the front passenger caliper/pads completely off again to see if we can find any obvious issues. NOTHING. Visually everything looks 100% perfect, even after taking back apart one of the brakes like that.

Idk what else it could be... Im considering taking my car into my mechanic on Tuesday. but thought id ask. Sorry for the lost post, i just wanna be detailed enough in case anyone else knows what it could be. For reference, i am using stock resurfaced rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and completely new brake fluid.

argh.

 

[FORZDA 1]

Double check the caliper itself. It sounds like the caliper is touching the rotor when you really squeeze the caliper. Also look behind the rotor to make sure all the shielding is clear of the wheel bolts, etc. The anti-lock brake reluctor ring could be damaged and touching something as well. It is easy to bend the sheilds enough to touch.

 

[batou079]

looked again, nothing possibly hitting the rotors checked while brakes were engaged and not engaged.

nothing in the way of the pads, nothing out of the ordinary.
ugh i give up, taking it to my mechanic, lol

 

[Sacramento6]

Sounds like an issue with the disc itself to me. Let us know what you find out. I'm getting ready to do the same on my car.

 

[batou079]

My mechanic cant find any specific problem.
He says teh rotors are under minimal thickness specs...

not sure if that is enough alone to cause the clunking/clicking noise.
Im going to try and check the ABS system too soon, and if worse comes to worse go back to the stock pads to see it is the pads themselves.

im desperate, might get a 2nd opinion from a shop today.

 

[dave_PEI]

My mechanic cant find any specific problem.
He says teh rotors are under minimal thickness specs...

not sure if that is enough alone to cause the clunking/clicking noise.
Im going to try and check the ABS system too soon, and if worse comes to worse go back to the stock pads to see it is the pads themselves.

im desperate, might get a 2nd opinion from a shop today.

i just had the same issue except it wasnt a violent clunk... new rear rotors has solved the problem

 

[bgibb68]

clunking and vibrating pedal is usually a warpped rotor(key word = USUALLY)

 

[batou079]

ding ding, bingo.

I was hit TWO-FOLD with problems. Found out my stock rotors were ALREADY bad. They must have been turned before cause they were quite a bit under absolute minimum spec thickness. Secondly, when these guys turned them they got whats called "machining chatter". Meaning they could not smoothly cut the rotors, and there was enough rough texture to them that the pads would be forced into grooves, and is why they clicked/clunked so loud.

It just turned out the front passenger side was the worst of them all.
One of the mechanics mentioned that was the roughest textured rotors he had ever seen.

problem solved, need new rotors... new MASSIVE expense since i need all four.
*argh*. My $40 brake job turned into $600. FML!!

 

[dave_PEI]

ding ding, bingo.

I was hit TWO-FOLD with problems. Found out my stock rotors were ALREADY bad. They must have been turned before cause they were quite a bit under absolute minimum spec thickness. Secondly, when these guys turned them they got whats called "machining chatter". Meaning they could not smoothly cut the rotors, and there was enough rough texture to them that the pads would be forced into grooves, and is why they clicked/clunked so loud.

It just turned out the front passenger side was the worst of them all.
One of the mechanics mentioned that was the roughest textured rotors he had ever seen.

problem solved, need new rotors... new MASSIVE expense since i need all four.
*argh*. My $40 brake job turned into $600. FML!!

thats alright.... my clunk appeared after they re-assembled the car when they replaced an axle under warranty...

upon returning to get the clunk looked at they figured it was a leaking strut ($150 surprise), then it was still present so they finally decided i needed new rear rotors ($217)... so my free axle replacement has cost me almost $400

 

[bgibb68]

new rotors cost you 600?? good god.....hell ya can buy them at autozone for ~40 a piece and takes like 15-30 mins to swap out each one....and that's with a jack doing one at a time without a lift or airtools

 

[batou079]

lol, that'd be ecnono class rotors.
here was my dilemna.

i had turned and got new pads, in prep for TRACKING my car this coming Saturday.
Finding out my stock rotors were bad, i wanted high performance rotors, not econo, low heat yield/risk of warping ones. However, that is only 3-4 days to get performance rotors AND do the install myself. Damn near impossible without paying $100 or more for rush shipping. Additionally, I have to do my installs at friends, as i have no garage space. I work full time, as do my friends. They dont have garage space available until Friday (the day i leave).

So my ONLY option left, is get them from a shop who has em in stock, and installed by them.
They are charging $100 for install which includes a limited warranty on labor.
about $125 per rotor includes a limited warranty on parts.

all in all, its not as bad as i was dreading.

EDIT: the rear axle seal replacement did however go without a hitch, works GREAT, no more leaks and replaced the rear diff fluids.
saved $200 in labor, for a job that took me under 1 hour, and cost $30 in parts. hah!