Boring Daily Build

[pcb]

I've had my knuckles removed a few times to do the bearings but I can't remember what all I disconnected for the new struts.

 

[Spencer_P]

How do I remove the tie rod end? I removed the cotter pin and the nut and hammered on the stud and it moved up a little bit but didn’t come out

 

[pcb]

They're a PITA too.
If you pound too hard on the stud, you'll wreck the threads and if you use a pickle fork ball joint remover, you'll damage the boot.

Maybe try a gear puller if you've got one.

 

[pcb]

You can reinstall the nut and back it off a few turns then put a socket on it and hammer on the socket.

 

[Spencer_P]

Im calling it a night. I’ve got replacements inner and outer so I don’t care about the threads or boot but I’ll try the socket

 

[Spencer_P]

I ordered some liqui moly engine flush and I'm gonna pick up oil and an oil filter tomorrow. Not gonna get my hopes up but can't hurt. I couldn't see the oil filter anywhere and shopkeypro isn't working for me to view a diagram.

 

[pcb]

It's up underneath...





Apparently, 10W30 regular dino oil doesn't burn off as fast and it's cheaper which saves a lot of money if you need to add a quart regularly.

 

[pcb]

You might want to get the oil filter for the older 626. (I forget what year and what engine though)
It's exactly the same except that it's taller so more filter media.
There's lots of room for it to fit.

 

[pcb]

These are the two different types of filters...

 

[pcb]

There's another treatment for the rings where you pour stuff down the spark plug holes. I think it was ATF actually?
It gets right at the rings where the problem is.

This is what JazzySP20 did...

I would give it a try if were me...

'02 Protege5 burning oil, white smoke on startup/post downhill acceleration

I've noticed in the last 6months to a year that my PR5 has been burning oil and smoking sometimes on a cold start after sitting for 8+ hours. This usually lasts for the first 5mins of driving then goes away. I've also noticed that when I drive downhill and use the engine compression for...

www.mazdas247.com

 

[Spencer_P]

I was actually thinking about pouring some ATF in the cylinders. I plan on getting conventional I saw you mention that in another thread. Thanks for the filter tip. Do you have the pn for stp or something? Or how I could find it... I don’t like fram lol

 

[pcb]

No part #, but the "7313" seems to be part of all the different companies part numbers.
The "6607" is the one listed for our car and the first few letters are from Canadian Tire listings.

I believe that you want a filter for the 1999 V6 626.

Maybe check Rockauto to find comparisions.

You can maybe compare the filters at the store.


I like the Fram because it's coated with grippy stuff so it's easy to unscrew it without tools or hammering a big screwdriver though it to torque it off. Lol

 

[pcb]

Yea, that was it...
1999 Mazda 626 V6.

It lists the Fram 7317...

 

[pcb]

I remember another guy who hates Fram.
He said that the filter exploded under the oil pressure and he lost all his oil and wrecked his engine...

 

[Spencer_P]

Thank you! Yeah that’s the one nice thing, it’s sucks they patented it. I wouldn’t so much mind a fram on a $200 car but still.

 

[Spencer_P]

Autozone has two stp options one is 2.9" and one is 3.6", the fram is 3.4" so I guess the stp 3.6" is the one I want. The reason I want stp is that it's cheapest lol

 

[pcb]

Yeah, there's lots if room for the taller filter.

 

[Spencer_P]

Well the stp 7317 was the same size as the stp 6607, which is the filter for the P5, even though on the website it said the 7317 was bigger. The fram 7317 was the correct (bigger) size but twice the price so I just got the normal size stp “7317”

 

[pcb]

You're probably just going to be throwing it out after 50 miles anyway.

 

[Spencer_P]

Yeah