Anyone used a helicoil before?

I stupidly stripped my top passenger side exhaust manifold bolt hole this past winter. It was only the last 3rd or so of the threads so I was still able to tighten it down, but while my car used to go about 6 mos before I had to tighten down the ARP studs again, it seems to have only lasted 3 this time as I noticed the usual faint ticking this morning. Of course, I am assuming my manifold didn't finally crack.

So I should probably helicoil at least that one hole if not all of them.

I found these, but I am not sure what tool you need to insert them, or whether there are any tips or tricks since I've never used one before.

https://www.amazon.com (commissions earned)

From the helicoil website, it looks like I will need the proper size tap, which isn't clear what it is. I have a tap tool. But it looks like I also need a helicoil installation tool and tang removal tool. I have no idea what a tang is. I suppose it is a tab that is used to twist the helicoil into the hole.

Thanks in advance. I'd like to order everything from amazon at once, or just make one trip to Ace.
 
You should be able to get them from a auto parts store its a common thing to do. They normally come with the tap that you need then also the tool to install them.
 
One of the best thing ever invented... I have used them in many diffrent things ... From caliper brakets to thermostat housings.. just take ur time make sure u drill straight and u should be good ... Also don't drill to deep... And they sell it as a kit...
 
Although I'd probably be ok with just tapping it out to a M10 on the block and using a bigger bolt on the top left (looking at it from the front), there just isn't a whole lot of room for bigger bolt heads around the manifold. I also don't like the idea of having one larger bolt.

So I should just check Autozone? Their site doesn't return anything when I search for helicoil.
 
So I took off the heatshield this morning (I really should cut out the O2 so I don't have to remove it every time). And the stud with the stripped hole was tight as a drum. In fact, all but one were. The bottom driver's side stud was halfway out just hanging on by a few threads. I really don't know what causes my engine to spit out its manifold bolts so frequently. I torque them down to spec everytime, going in order, 8 then 16. Actually I can't get a torque wrench on the bottom middle two, but those have never come loose.

I don't want to use threadlocker on them because that's why my top left hole is stripped. I guess I could get some lock washers instead of the flat ones that came with the ARP studs. Oh well, it takes about five minutes to tighten them down even with removing the O2 every time, and I know it is time when the faint ticking appears again when cold.

I think the MSP is going to be reassigned fun project car instead of daily driver soon anyway.
 
If you have ARP studs, you do not need to thread lock anything...

Did you not get the install guide?
 
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