Aircondition not working

[Robotazky]

Yes i talked to the manager himself and he was absolutely hard to argue with. when this kind of s*** happend, one tend to get tired of all s*** and all i wanted was the AC to work since its almost impossible to be in the car when it is hot outside, ofcourse you can roll down the windows but when u are in tunnels or when theres car jam the hot air will kill you.

I never had energy to take it the next level becuse of their act i was just tired of all .

Oh i SOOO hear you on getting sick of it. That's why I'd file an online complaint with the BBB just to break it off in him and move on. You may just get your money back so that he can clear the complaint off of his record. I'd do it man.

 

[Clevor]

I had the same problem when I took my '99 Premacy to a body shop to have the front end fixed after an accident. When they replaced the front fascia you have to unplug a connector that goes to the cooling fan for the condensor at the front of the car. They forgot to replug it in after they finished.

Since I'm in Okinawa where it can get brutally hot and humid, I figured out the A/C wasn't working the same day so I took the car back.

Back in the States, I had all the equipment and gear to work on my own A/C system on an '86 5-liter Mustang. It is not for the feint of heart. You need a quality high vacuum pump (runs around $300-500), a quality freon gas detector for leaks (runs around $400), a set of high/low pressure gauges, as well as various connectors and adapters. I also had the help of a pro A/C shop who gave me advice for free.

When your A/C goes away, take it down to an A/C shop and the bill may run $900-2000. There's a lot of ripoff shops around that will tell you the evap needs replacement (which requires removing the whole dash) when all it is is a minor freon leak which can be fixed by replacing a $5 o-ring, then recharging the system.

When I bought my V-8 'Stang, the A/C was dead. The A/C shop quoted me $900, saying the evap was bad. Instead I used the money to buy pro tools and fixed it myself (there are some manuals around that tell you how to do it). The A/C shop was a crook, because I removed the dash, cut into the evap box with a hot knife, and found out the evap was fine! I replaced it anyway and hot-glued the box back (a tip the pro told me about). I then converted to R-134, which you don't need a license to buy.

It's great to do it yourself since you can do the job right: replacing all the o-rings when the system is down, as well as the expansion valve since it's cheap, and I put in a new canister (forgot what you call it). I also cleaned out the condensor well with solvent and compressed air.

But then again, I do all my own automotive work like rebuilding and blueprinting race motors, rebuilding transmissions, as well as doing autobody work and refinishing. (yes) Rebuilding automatic transmissions is another can of worms that requires specialized tools, but I already had the precision measuring instruments like mikes and dial indicators from engine rebuilding.

One final thing: I asked the pro shop about these ads by A/C shops asking $75 to do an A/C system 'check'. He told me the best thing to do is leave the system alone, because when they do that check they stress the system out, so it increases the chance of blowing an o-ring (it's a system pressure and vacuum check). They don't care they are hastening the need for A/C work!

 

[SGT_OKINAWA]

Huh?

I had the same problem when I took my '99 Premacy to a body shop to have the front end fixed after an accident. When they replaced the front fascia you have to unplug a connector that goes to the cooling fan for the condensor at the front of the car. They forgot to replug it in after they finished.


Since I'm in Okinawa where it can get brutally hot and humid, I figured out the A/C wasn't working the same day so I took the car back.

Clevor, sorry to butt in here, but only because Im in Okinawa, and after reading all your work below, Im amazed you did not do the above fascia work yourself over at Typhoon motors or KAB Auto Hobby Shop?
What base are you on?
Have you seen my Premacy before?

Back in the States, I had all the equipment and gear to work on my own A/C system on an '86 5-liter Mustang. It is not for the feint of heart. You need a quality high vacuum pump (runs around $300-500), a quality freon gas detector for leaks (runs around $400), a set of high/low pressure gauges, as well as various connectors and adapters. I also had the help of a pro A/C shop who gave me advice for free.

When your A/C goes away, take it down to an A/C shop and the bill may run $900-2000. There's a lot of ripoff shops around that will tell you the evap needs replacement (which requires removing the whole dash) when all it is is a minor freon leak which can be fixed by replacing a $5 o-ring, then recharging the system.

When I bought my V-8 'Stang, the A/C was dead. The A/C shop quoted me $900, saying the evap was bad. Instead I used the money to buy pro tools and fixed it myself (there are some manuals around that tell you how to do it). The A/C shop was a crook, because I removed the dash, cut into the evap box with a hot knife, and found out the evap was fine! I replaced it anyway and hot-glued the box back (a tip the pro told me about). I then converted to R-134, which you don't need a license to buy.

It's great to do it yourself since you can do the job right: replacing all the o-rings when the system is down, as well as the expansion valve since it's cheap, and I put in a new canister (forgot what you call it). I also cleaned out the condensor well with solvent and compressed air.

But then again, I do all my own automotive work like rebuilding and blueprinting race motors, rebuilding transmissions, as well as doing autobody work and refinishing. (yes) Rebuilding automatic transmissions is another can of worms that requires specialized tools, but I already had the precision measuring instruments like mikes and dial indicators from engine rebuilding.

Again, not calling you out or anything, but with all this work youve done, above how hard was the body work, that you could not do it yourself? Was it not your fault and let the Insurance pay for it, not enough time, too hot, etc.?

One final thing: I asked the pro shop about these ads by A/C shops asking $75 to do an A/C system 'check'. He told me the best thing to do is leave the system alone, because when they do that check they stress the system out, so it increases the chance of blowing an o-ring (it's a system pressure and vacuum check). They don't care they are hastening the need for A/C work!

That is new to me, thanks for the tip and FYI you can do A/C over here in Okinawa in a snap all the auto hobby shops have A/C equipment you can use free.
Peace!(rei)

 

[Clevor]

Sgt Okinawa, all my tools and equipment are back in the States. Although I live off base and have a nice big house here with four parking spaces, the landlord lives across the driveway (wow). I only found that out after I moved in.

Besides, I only like (and know how) to do work on 5-liter Ford Mustangs (1986-1993). Pretty hard to find any around now, even in the States. I was looking for a post 2005 V-8 Mustang which I can take back to the States, but wasn't any available when I was looking for a car.

I never liked getting dirty and greasy working with cars anyway, and with the humid climate here in Okinawa, forget it!

Over here, all I do on my Premacy is change oil and wax the car, because I paid $3500 for it, the most I've ever paid for a car. I want to get a decent resale value when I sell it. I bought my '86 5-liter 'Stang for $1800 in the States, and fixed it myself (that was in 1992). The mag rims on it alone was worth $800. Had to get the A/C working, put in a stereo system, replaced the dash and rusted out trunk lid, and fixed all the dents but the stock motor was strong and didn't eat a lick of oil at 110,000 miles. I was going to put a 355 Clevor in it (now you know how I got my name) putting out around 375 HP, but the car is all rusted out now sitting in the driveway. A Clevor is a Windsor V-8 block with Australian Cleveland heads. It's was a popular motor for dirt track racing. Or I could put some aluminum racing heads on the Windsor with a Vortex supercharger for around 450 HP.

I am pleasantly surprised with the 1999 Premacy, because it's a tiny little wagon but has an 1800 cc engine, pretty big for cars nowadays. Has more than adequate getup-and-go. Slap on some sidedraft Webers, headers, and a racing cam and it may give some Skylines a run for their money. But no speed parts for these engines, and the car has an auto trans anyway .