So I just purchased an 02 p5 with mt real cheap. Hence my name. It runs and drives but, here it comes, it has a hole in the back portion of the block. It had 179k on the clock before its demise. I have sourced a motor with 20k to slide on in there. I will be cleaning and painting the block, putting in an exedy stage 1 clutch kit. Resurface/grind not turn the flywheel, and replace the motor mounts with factory style pieces. Anything I should also be doing while I have the motor out? Idk about changing the t-belt @ 20k. It's not difficult to do with the motor in the car. I have lift access. Plan on changing any and all fluids as well. Thanks in advance for input and suggestions!
2002 P5 resurection
- Thread starter Cheap5
- Start date
mp5build2013
Member
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- Mazda, Protege5 02
It's not hard, this engine is pretty straight forward. not to mention the big ass engine bay to work in.
Everyone around here likes pulling the engine with the transmission still attatched...
I removed mine in about 2 hours leaving the tranny in, however my engine is not back in yet, so i cant tell you putting it back in will be easier. i do know i saved myself some work, i didnt have to remove axles. The rear and tranny mount were also left alone, and the brace under the transmission/engine is still there. If you remove the intake, the engine will slide right out. My Hood didnt even have to come off! ill be getting my engine back this week so i guess you can watch me **** up before you do lol just look for "spun a rod bearing"
Since you do have lift access though, you might wanna check out a few build threads and see what pulling the engine and tranny out through the bottom is all about. might be a bit easier, i dont have any access to any type of lift.
Everyone around here likes pulling the engine with the transmission still attatched...
I removed mine in about 2 hours leaving the tranny in, however my engine is not back in yet, so i cant tell you putting it back in will be easier. i do know i saved myself some work, i didnt have to remove axles. The rear and tranny mount were also left alone, and the brace under the transmission/engine is still there. If you remove the intake, the engine will slide right out. My Hood didnt even have to come off! ill be getting my engine back this week so i guess you can watch me **** up before you do lol just look for "spun a rod bearing"
Since you do have lift access though, you might wanna check out a few build threads and see what pulling the engine and tranny out through the bottom is all about. might be a bit easier, i dont have any access to any type of lift.
I've done several motors but this one does look pretty simple. Any parts besides motor mounts few obvious things like a thermostat etc I should just knock out while I'm at it. Also I think im just going to paint the block and trans red. It's a silver car and ill probably end up with black and red rims at some point.
Open up the intake and remove the VTCS and re-torque with red loctite the VICS butterflies . 
Use aftermarket engine mounts - OEMs are only good for maybe 50K miles...
Consider an underdrive crank pulley.
I would not change the timing belt or water pump on an engine with only 20K miles.
Use aftermarket engine mounts - OEMs are only good for maybe 50K miles...
Consider an underdrive crank pulley.
I would not change the timing belt or water pump on an engine with only 20K miles.
mp5build2013
Member
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- Mazda, Protege5 02
Fill your motor mounts with window weld bro, stiffer than stock..not as stiff as most aftermarkets.. cheap as hell to do, and last a good bit.
Yea remove the entire intake(meaning dont open it up in half), and remove the butterfly valves that can be seen, there are others inside the manifold but those are needed. find something good to plug up the rod holes and port it a bit.
i guess its not neccesary to change the T.belt at 20k... if you are just switching out entire engines your good, if you are putting the heads on a 20k block and the timing has to be opened.. well the belt isint very expensive, and a new belt is better than one with 20k on it.
Idk what you will use the car for, but if you ever planned on removing the a/c now is the time to do it.
I removed the a/c( condenser, piping, compressor and a/c box under the dash), cruise control, and i took advantage and changed out my manifold bolts( bottom, with springs) since i could not get them off from under the car and the springs were shot.
i am also taking the opportunity to wrap my header and gring off a bit off the tip that keeps tapping on my oil pan.( ebay header)
Yea remove the entire intake(meaning dont open it up in half), and remove the butterfly valves that can be seen, there are others inside the manifold but those are needed. find something good to plug up the rod holes and port it a bit.
i guess its not neccesary to change the T.belt at 20k... if you are just switching out entire engines your good, if you are putting the heads on a 20k block and the timing has to be opened.. well the belt isint very expensive, and a new belt is better than one with 20k on it.
Idk what you will use the car for, but if you ever planned on removing the a/c now is the time to do it.
I removed the a/c( condenser, piping, compressor and a/c box under the dash), cruise control, and i took advantage and changed out my manifold bolts( bottom, with springs) since i could not get them off from under the car and the springs were shot.
i am also taking the opportunity to wrap my header and gring off a bit off the tip that keeps tapping on my oil pan.( ebay header)
mp5build2013
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 02
Oh ok nevermind on the belt.
a lot of people like to mess with this car's suspension..
However i also drive an Acura rsx, handling wise..it simply cant keep up with the p5. my girl smokes me on straigh aways in her rsx, but when we hit the curvy roads... all i see is an rsx bouncing and jerking around in my rear view.
my p5's supension is complelty stock, as a matter of fact... i have no endlink on the right side due to the tab breaking off the strut. Still handles like no other car ive EVER driven.
a lot of people like to mess with this car's suspension..
However i also drive an Acura rsx, handling wise..it simply cant keep up with the p5. my girl smokes me on straigh aways in her rsx, but when we hit the curvy roads... all i see is an rsx bouncing and jerking around in my rear view.
my p5's supension is complelty stock, as a matter of fact... i have no endlink on the right side due to the tab breaking off the strut. Still handles like no other car ive EVER driven.
My last daily driver was a 91 Subaru legacy. I swapped in the shocks and springs from an 04 sti. Handled like nothing else I had 250k on it when the old lady wrecked it. I also drive my 66 mustang with real stiff suspension and a 351w motor. Lots of money in that beast but it gets crapola gas mileage.
mp5build2013
Member
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- Mazda, Protege5 02
ohh man, well then i could see why you would want to up the suspension haha
props on that 5.8
and sorry to hear about the sub, those are beauties.
anyway, welcome to the FWD mazda world. the protege5 is a great street handler thanks to its hatchback weighing the ass end down. power-wise tho... you will probably just fall more in love with the 5.8 haha
props on that 5.8
and sorry to hear about the sub, those are beauties.
anyway, welcome to the FWD mazda world. the protege5 is a great street handler thanks to its hatchback weighing the ass end down. power-wise tho... you will probably just fall more in love with the 5.8 haha
mp5build2013
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 02
yea i agree these cars at the very least "look" like nice little rally cars lol
Gas-wise, i think i was getting around 27 mpg. all i had was a header and cheap ass CAI
Gas-wise, i think i was getting around 27 mpg. all i had was a header and cheap ass CAI
Just made a phone call to an auto recycler. Got it for 1000 delivered to my garage with a warranty. Complete engine assembly with all sensors and such. I'm going to strip the old engine to the block and head lol and ill have some replacement parts to boot.
whatusername
Member
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- 02 protege5
the more important question is how much is real cheap????(detect) and what condition is it in?
