Zoom zoom BoOm x2.

BlkZoomZoom said:
I guess that would have been a good question to ask like 3weeks ago. lol.

You mean 1-1.5 degrees per psi past the stock boost level? I always thought the timing curve was pretty conservative as it was on the MSP.

probably as I would hope/assume they retarded it... if you are running an MP3 or P5 ECU it's definitely 1.5 per psi from 0 psi.
 
Without Standalone EMS you never know total advancing. Sometimes that 'per-psi rule" does not apply with a stock ECU.

I hate stock ECU!!! I have dataloged my friends ECU and mine to make a good map for my future standalone and for my surprise, his car, an auto protege was running from 12 to 22 deg advanced, while mine was happy running 22 to 39deg advanced...

I think that people using piggybacks should start tunning with a lot of retard and begin advancing until you dont see any more hp gain.
 
I think when i dynoed at 9psi we only had like a max of 5 or 7 out and i swear it was detontion . So we pulled more out and i gradly increased the boost and finally stopeed at 11psi I really think that timming map would be good for 12 or 14 psi I would have to add more fuel but i can do that too witht the extra injhectors which i havent even used i fired them at idle to make sure they didnt leak and all was good . Iam just scared to go up in boost , so may people say i should be fien at 12 to 14 but its all in the tune . Ima always goanna be on the conservitive side and try and make good power but safe power.
 
people, the MPI tunner has a lot of potential to even protect your engine from blowing, dont limit the maps for tunning what you going to use, but for overboost and overrevving.

Try tunning for up to 8krpms and 20+psi and put BIG ASS RETARD For anything over what you consider safe boost and the same for anything over 7krpms if you dont use it. Same thing with the fuel map, dump fuel where you dont want your engine to die.

Example...the rev limiter just cut fuel, so in this case you could leave nice fuel map up there but do a 0 total advancing or -40 deg or -30 on the piggyback
 
if u put the graph at 8krpms doesnt that limit ur resolution since 1500rpm wont be used unless somethings afoot?
 
Spooled said:
What about oil pump failure? I know it's a long shot, but if the squirters failed at a high RPM, heat could build very quickly around the rim of the pistons. Also, the lack of lubrication could cause binding.

I'd like to know:
Oil levels?
Coolant levels?
Oil pump working fine?
Injectors (especially #1) working fine?
Fuel pump working fine?

I think you all should know that I have been running without oil squirters for over 2 years now boosted. I use nothing but Redline lubricants though. 20W50 for 2 years, and then 10W40 now.
 
BlkZoomZoom said:
Turbodart is a good friend and is currently building a very mean streetTurbo'd big block dodge dart. Hoping to go 10's-9's.

He is trying to make me stop spending money on the protege and put it into the scamp.

Yes, but remember he will always be gay and you will always get the ass !!! (poke) (glare)
 
turbodart said:
turbomotor5.JPG

dart_dworld.jpg

OOOOO,AHHHHHH!!!! man that get the models rushing over!!! (glare) of course they'll be 60 hahahahahahahahaha(poke) (butt)

just kidding!!!(butt)

thats pretty sweet, but I'm a guy and can respect the art and understand the beauty of such a masterpeice(first)
 
I'm curious how much time was on your block with forged internals before you made that fateful dyno run?

Ritalin on atticus' comp.
 
igdrasil said:
people, the MPI tunner has a lot of potential to even protect your engine from blowing, dont limit the maps for tunning what you going to use, but for overboost and overrevving.

Try tunning for up to 8krpms and 20+psi and put BIG ASS RETARD For anything over what you consider safe boost and the same for anything over 7krpms if you dont use it. Same thing with the fuel map, dump fuel where you dont want your engine to die.

Example...the rev limiter just cut fuel, so in this case you could leave nice fuel map up there but do a 0 total advancing or -40 deg or -30 on the piggyback

No offense but you are giving people bad advice for tuning the MPI.
 
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mazdaspeed75 said:
so i figure iam pulling about right for my setup Plugs looked good as of yesterday . I am running 11 psi and pulling like a beast i turn down the boost slightly to try and get the a/f alitlle lower to 12 or so
Leave your map alone dude. It's set up fine.
 
LinuxRacr said:
I think you all should know that I have been running without oil squirters for over 2 years now boosted. I use nothing but Redline lubricants though. 20W50 for 2 years, and then 10W40 now.

Why they were only $15.00, you must agree that they must do something...
 
MPNick said:
Never dynoed before?

Try having four 200 lbs people in your car. Going up hill with the A/C on and towing a trailer. Now shift into 4th gear at 2,000 and nail the throttle 100% for the next 7-10 seconds. That is like a dyno pull.
I believe a dumbass dyno operator had a partial role to his engine failing.
I usually tell the dyno operator to start sampling at a higher RPM and make sure he lets off right away once the peak RPM has been reached or if something doesn't sound right.
 
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Brian MP5T said:
Why they were only $15.00, you must agree that they must do something...

They got sheared off b/c the JE pistons way back then didn't have the grooves cut out for the squirters. Remember Linux is the OG in this game. He was prob one of the first few people with a built Protege short block.
 
While they may only be 15 dollars, tearing down (linux's case with them having been sheared all the way to get at them is a LOT more expensive... and If I remember right I acutally paid about 9 bucks each.. so they were roughly 40 bucks...
 
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