Right now the AWR seems to be the best bang for the buck. I custom set of headers would run well north of $1,000 and that really cuts into my tire budget. The 626 manifold is tempting, but I don't think it will help. The Protege needs the power down low for pulling out of corners and it doesn't seem that the 626 manifold helps down low. My head is ported quite a bit and the intake manifold has the VTCS removed.
XelderX's BG FSP Build
- Thread starter xelderx
- Start date
Right now the AWR seems to be the best bang for the buck. I custom set of headers would run well north of $1,000 and that really cuts into my tire budget. The 626 manifold is tempting, but I don't think it will help. The Protege needs the power down low for pulling out of corners and it doesn't seem that the 626 manifold helps down low. My head is ported quite a bit and the intake manifold has the VTCS removed.
There are a few pounds to get at here and there. Since I have strut inserts I can lighten the strut housings quite a bit as long as i don't sacrifice the strength. My seats/brackets are still about 7lbs overweight each. I can probably get another 20-30lbs out of the car fairly easy with my drill press, but I might need to add a bigger front swaybar which will negate some of that.
- :
- 03' Mazda Protege 5
Do you have the whole interior(seats, dash, carpet, headliner, door panels, rear deck, trunk, etc.) stripped? Do you have any final pics in its current state or from your first auto X you could post up?
Not legal in FSP
The interior is complete with exception of the radio, speakers, and the front seats have been swapped. The doors have been converted to the DX manual windows/locks.
I'm still waiting on the good pictures to be uploaded by our club photographer. Here is one photo from another competitor.
I'll get some more pictures as I get the car cleaned up. It was such a rush job just to get the car ready mechanically for the event.
- :
- 03' Mazda Protege 5
I see. I was not sure what class you were in. Nice seets. Do you have to have a passenger front seat as well in a FSP?
Here is the Street Prepared seat rule:
[FONT=Univers,Italic]
The driver and front passenger seats may be replaced, with the
following restrictions: The seating surface must be fully upholstered.
The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may not be
below the center of the drivers head. The seat, including mounting
hardware, must weigh at least 20 pounds and must be attached
using the standard body mounting holes/studs. Additional
mounting points may be added.
following restrictions: The seating surface must be fully upholstered.
The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may not be
below the center of the drivers head. The seat, including mounting
hardware, must weigh at least 20 pounds and must be attached
using the standard body mounting holes/studs. Additional
mounting points may be added.
[/FONT]Cars may have no fewer
than the standard number of seats. The seat tracks are considered
part of the seat and may be substituted. Alternate seat
tracks may serve no other purpose. The [FONT=Univers,Italic]standard [/FONT]seat belts may
be removed to facilitate the installation of alternate restraints
complying with safety requirements.
than the standard number of seats. The seat tracks are considered
part of the seat and may be substituted. Alternate seat
tracks may serve no other purpose. The [FONT=Univers,Italic]standard [/FONT]seat belts may
be removed to facilitate the installation of alternate restraints
complying with safety requirements.
Nick Leone
Member
What are you going to do with the Suppertrap if you go to the Dynomax?
If I like the Dynomax better I'll probably sell the Supertrapp. There isn't really much need to keep it. Even though running it without any discs in it (for sites with no sound restrictions) makes a lot more HP it loses too much power below 3500rpms for me to want to run it that way. I'll probably test with both setups at some point this winter if I get the time. It really depends on when I get the AWR header since that is the only big money item I need to save for outside of tires.
Just posted this morning.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4182127&postcount=22862
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4182127&postcount=22862
I took a closer look at the motor position today and i should have that problem fixed by tomorrow evening. I only have to modify the passenger side mount. The driver's side mount has slots in it that allow enough play to move it the way I need. The front and rear mounts just need to be turned 180* and they will be perfect.
Vanimaniac
Member
Hooray! FSP index got easier. I may actually PAX well next season. http://scca-chicago.com/solo/indexes/rtp2009.html
Van
Van
Stupid pivot cones....notice where the rim is rubbing the hard line. I'll take a little more spacer for $400 Alex.
needs moar handbrake next time
I finally got the short shifter done. i may end up making another one as I can now see a few areas to improve on. The shaft is 6160 Aluminum and the pivot ball is Delrin. It is really hard to machine a sphere on a lathe. It took me a little longer than expected since I burnt the motor up on the lathe about half way through it. Luckily I have 2 lathes so I finished it on the nicer, more precise lathe. I had to shorten the bottom of the lever under the pivot from what it was in the picture as it was hitting the exhaust. I took about 1" off. If I make another one I won't shorten it quite as much. The shift knob is from CV Products. Oh yea...this shifter is 1/2lb lighter than the stock setup.
