I don't see how 15x10s are going to hurt the transmission. As long as you have a good differential, and some stiff motor mounts, and decent shocks, you should be OK. I have been autocrossing my car since it was new and the only transmission failure was a blown (stock-open) differential which was caused by wheel hop, which was caused by worn out motor mounts. Yes I know I'm only putting down about 110Hp and you guys are making more with the turbos- but as long as you don't get wheel hop, then I think your transmission should be OK. The 275 Hoosier autocross tires help in lateral grip more than forward acceleration. If you were running drag slicks, that might be a different story.
XelderX's BG FSP Build
- Thread starter xelderx
- Start date
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
WOW... nice work
3rd and 4th = the weaklings.
I'll be putting down close to 250whp (rod slinging time (ughdance)) later on.
gavin_leslie
Member
Torque multiplication and 275mm worth of hoosier A forward bite? You are correct though, with 110hp and 100ft/lbs or so, its going to be pretty hard to crack a gear. I think you guys are plenty safe.
Jeff popped his 2nd gear with a combination of torque multiplication, 275 hoosiers and changing surface conditions that went from dry to wet to dry again. A bit of wheelspin on the wet surface, boost and torque build for an instant and then the tires grab on the dry surface....crunch. But this is with a DSP MS protege. Theres only one FSP car that I can think of that would have that kind of transmission shredding power.
Gavin
So that's something I should be cautious of in SM?
gavin_leslie
Member
Id guess so. The g-type trans has been a workhorse for a number of years and chassis types, but I dont think they can be called the most robust of mazda transmissions when the power and torque starts increasing. The old 93-97 MX6 guys have had issues with cracked transmission cases (I imagine the cases have been changed a bit for the newer proteges though)
Actually I wasnt thinking of Lorin, but that could be one case. I was thinking a 2100lb(?) car with 230hp/250ft lbs torque. Good thing no one has built it yet.xelderx said:
Gavin
Vanimaniac
Member
Last edited:
gavin_leslie
Member
Pretty sure the 3l v6s wont fit into the engine bay of an 82 accord without some SM adjustments. Whats the suspension on an 82 anyway? yikes. I was actually thinking something closer to home...Mazda.
"626 ALL"
Gavin
"626 ALL"
Gavin
Great news! The car moved under it's own power yesterday. Granted it was only from one side of the driveway to the other, but it moved. I need to re-bleed the brakes as they don't work at all, but that was to be expected since this was the first time they were used with the car running. I definitely have a voltage issue as it doesn't look like the alternator is charging very well. In all my attempts to get the car running over the last few weeks I may have damaged some internal circuts in the alternator. I'll have it tested this weekend. The next priority is to get the cooling fan wired in and working. I can tell she is running extremely rich, but I'm not going to make any changes there until I finalize my intake/air filter setup and switch spark plugs. I got the car to idle at a steady 900 RPMs. I couldn't drive it far since there is no cooling fans and the front spindles are only bolted hand tight since I'll have to take them back off to press in new wheel studs this weekend. If anyone is intersted I have 10 long ARP studs for sale that fit the 5 lug spindles from the late model Proteges.
2 days ago I may have been interested in whether or not they had the same dimensions as the miata studs, but 2 days ago I ordered a set from ART, so too late now
why just the rear?
I have 4-5, but I didn't label them so I have no idea which ones fit what. I have alternators for a 626, RX-7, BJ Protege, BG Protege, maybe a Miata, and then the Suzuki Samurai one that is on the car. The problem is that they have all been dismantled in one form or another to make the Samurai alt. fit.
RWD duh
No I actually have some on the front already. Figured if I ever get wider wheels in the rear I may need the flexibility.I forgot you were using a different than stock alternator... carry on!
gavin_leslie
Member
Justin...did you get the wiring diagrams from me about the tiny denso alternator? If not here is how I got mine to work, I get a solid 14.8v and it charges well.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1607517-post1.html
Gavin
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1607517-post1.html
Gavin
I did look at that and went with the Samurai alternator. I've got the alternator mounted a wired, but it looks like I had the 2 wire adaptor plug (just like the one you made) wired backwards for the first week I was trying to get the car running. I have a feeling that might have messed up one of the diodes in the alternator. I also noticed that the 12V feed wire to the alternator has a 12V pull on it even if the ignition switch is off. It is my understanding that it should only show 12V when the ignition is turned on. That is draining my battery. I'll have to trace that back and I may end up just putting it on a separate switch.
I had to move the car again today and noticed that the clutch didn't feel quite right. After a quick examination I determined that the little adjuster rod on the back of the clutch pedal needed adjusting and it probably needed to be bled again. The clutch is still extremely grabby and catches a little earlier in the pedal throw than I would like, but I haven't actually gotten to let the clutch out all the way yet with the car in gear. I got the new ARP wheel studs installed today and all the front suspension is tightened back up. I might take a quick run around the block tomorrow, but I'll have to change plugs before I do anything. I noticed the car was stumbling a lot today when I was moving it and I remembered that I still had the old plugs in it from my turbo build. They were 1 heat range colder than normal and gapped down to .028. I pulled them out and they were extremely carboned up. Basically they were completely black. I'm hoping the 1 heat range hotter than stock plugs with the propper gap will help clean that up a little, but I may need to take a little fuel out of it at idle. My next job is to get the cooling fan(s) working. I have the small A/C condensor fan in it right now, but I would have to custom wire it to make it work. There are 3 fan relays in the car. The first is in the fuse box and runs the main cooling fan. The other two are near the passenger strut tower and appear to run the smaller A/C fan and the main fan's 2 speed setup. I have the thermoswitch that activates the main fan's 2nd speed, but it looks like it plugs into the fan itself since I don't have a matching connector on the wiring harness anywhere near it. I'm not sure what coolant sensor activates the main fan first. I'm going to go pull a main fan from the junkyard and throw it in the car to see if it will work.
The car now has a basic alignment and hopefully I can start actually tuning it tomorrow. I'm hoping to install the new alternator (old one wasn't putting out) and borrow a WB02 so I can safely lean it out a little.
Getting it aligned raised an issue with my rear ride height. The way I have the rear spindles mounted to the strut has raised the rear of the car at least 1-2 centimeters higher than it "should" be. Overall I would like the car to be lower front and rear, but there is very little room to drop the front since the bottom of the strut is extremely close to the half-shaft outer boot. The only way I can lower the rear is to relocate the spindle mounting points on the coilover. This isn't a very complicated thing to do, but it needs to be done right.
Getting it aligned raised an issue with my rear ride height. The way I have the rear spindles mounted to the strut has raised the rear of the car at least 1-2 centimeters higher than it "should" be. Overall I would like the car to be lower front and rear, but there is very little room to drop the front since the bottom of the strut is extremely close to the half-shaft outer boot. The only way I can lower the rear is to relocate the spindle mounting points on the coilover. This isn't a very complicated thing to do, but it needs to be done right.
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