I have to say custom, those are some decent suggestions. I'm not sure why I didn't think about the possibility of flashed MSPs on the lot that they could compare mine to. I just might call them.......but I just know how dealers are and they're going to say "oh, seems perfectly normal to us! Good day.":mad:
WTF is up with my car? More boost=slower car
- Thread starter CustomMSP
- Start date
Delivery_Guy
ProfessionalWarrantyUser
- :
- MSP
Custom...I'm no mechanic, but are you sure about the spark plug gap you were running. The manual says .028-.031 and I remember reading somewhere that NGK recommended running smaller gap if you are running higher boost. You might want to try .028 and see how that is, then maybe go smaller. Not sure if there are any negative side effects of running too small a spark plug gap. It might be possible you weren't getting good ignition.
Hopefully someone with better knowledge could chime in here.
Hopefully someone with better knowledge could chime in here.
YellowMSP4KP
Member
Girth, sounds like we have the same car. Mine runs great below 4k, but falls flat above that, especially if I give it more than 1/2 throttle. Every once in a while it will pull well up to redline, but most of the time I short shift it at 4k. I'm not really happy that I paid 20k for a car that has worse driveability than my 68 Datsun pickup I had in high school. What are the options? Mazda had 2 shots at it, ****** up the first one, and made it better with the flash, but it's still not right. I don't want to up the boost or mod it until my warranty is up.
I don't think the problem is related to heat soak because first of all it's kinda cold out now and secondly this mostly happends on the highway for me after driving for a while, where the engine compartment gets plenty of cold air. After driving on the highway, my filter is kinda cold to the touch. Maybe the people who are noticing this problem are more "intouch" with their cars?? 
Also about the gap...I went with Joe Ps recommendation of .032".
Also about the gap...I went with Joe Ps recommendation of .032".Boys take a look at this page, it explains a lot about what is happening for part throttle feeling fast.
http://minimopar.net/perf/basics.html
under A K&N filter
since I put a 3 inch exhaust on it pulls like a lion to 7000rpm
http://minimopar.net/perf/basics.html
under A K&N filter
since I put a 3 inch exhaust on it pulls like a lion to 7000rpm
Nice theory, but the guys who experience this problem do not have any mods done yet. I have a downpipe on the way and will definately get to test this theory out. I don't think the filter will add that much more air flow in the whole system. Unless, the stock airbox flow:stock exhaust flow ratio is like 2:1 to begin with from the box. On other note, my really is performing better so far. Sorry guys not trying to rub it in hehe.
Thanks.
Thanks.
- :
- 2015 BMW 335i Sedan / 2015 Nissan Pathfinder Platinum 4WD
I have the one-step colder NGK plugs gapped to the specs out of the book and running stock boost for now and my car pulls fine up to redline..also, I got the flash...which improved the power delivery a lot for me..
Why don't you rub it in some more! 
Damn, my problem is back again! I'm thinking it's the turbo itself that's ****** up. Unless I blew a head gasket or something. But I didn't put the engine under sever conditions for something like that to happen. I'm just going to put everything back to stock and see what happends. And I'm not talking here about the "regular" hesitation that everybody is experiencing. My s*** just falls flat on it's face as soon as the throttle is at about 30% or more of WOT. The turbo is building normal boost though, but it sounds like s*** doing it as soon as the "hesitation" begins. Also, this happens on and off.
Damn, my problem is back again! I'm thinking it's the turbo itself that's ****** up. Unless I blew a head gasket or something. But I didn't put the engine under sever conditions for something like that to happen. I'm just going to put everything back to stock and see what happends. And I'm not talking here about the "regular" hesitation that everybody is experiencing. My s*** just falls flat on it's face as soon as the throttle is at about 30% or more of WOT. The turbo is building normal boost though, but it sounds like s*** doing it as soon as the "hesitation" begins. Also, this happens on and off.Ok,
Just went to the track and....got a best of 16.2 at something like 89.45 mph!!! WTF is that?? My launch was almost perfect, no wheel spin/bog, 1 or 2 hops and I was off from about 3k rpm and I still got a 2.4xx 60'. My shifts were good except the 1-2 which is a b**** on this car, but that should have taken at most .2 secs from my time. I redlined 3rd gear. Another run I got 16.88 because I missed 2nd gear, which as you can see is also crap! Everything else was pretty much the same as the first run. How the ..... do people get 14 sec 1/4 times here?? By the way I was running ~9psi and it was cold as hell out.
Just went to the track and....got a best of 16.2 at something like 89.45 mph!!! WTF is that?? My launch was almost perfect, no wheel spin/bog, 1 or 2 hops and I was off from about 3k rpm and I still got a 2.4xx 60'. My shifts were good except the 1-2 which is a b**** on this car, but that should have taken at most .2 secs from my time. I redlined 3rd gear. Another run I got 16.88 because I missed 2nd gear, which as you can see is also crap! Everything else was pretty much the same as the first run. How the ..... do people get 14 sec 1/4 times here?? By the way I was running ~9psi and it was cold as hell out.
Another update...
As of right now it looks like my whole problem was a user error (bang). I installed the FPR kit on the wrong vacuum line (hand). The kit ended up just bleeding vacuum into the intake pipe as soon as pressure would start to build up in the system. This made the car run like somebody put a cork in my exhaust. I ran outside at 4am to correct this problem and go for a test drive It feels better now, but I hope it stays this way this time. Just keeping you all updated.
Thanks.
As of right now it looks like my whole problem was a user error (bang). I installed the FPR kit on the wrong vacuum line (hand). The kit ended up just bleeding vacuum into the intake pipe as soon as pressure would start to build up in the system. This made the car run like somebody put a cork in my exhaust. I ran outside at 4am to correct this problem and go for a test drive
It feels better now, but I hope it stays this way this time. Just keeping you all updated.Thanks.
then test it again. Looks like it was a overly rich problem plus a vacuum leak
Same thing happened to me, went to the track @5-9psi my runs were:
17.0s @ 89mph - 5psi run
16.7 @ 89MPH (leaned a bit the fuel) - 7psi run
16.2 @90MPH (leaned it a bit more) - 7psi run
15.1 @93MPH (leaned it more) -9psi run
14.9 @94MPH (leaned a bit more, but still running rich) - 7psi run
Same thing happened to me, went to the track @5-9psi my runs were:
17.0s @ 89mph - 5psi run
16.7 @ 89MPH (leaned a bit the fuel) - 7psi run
16.2 @90MPH (leaned it a bit more) - 7psi run
15.1 @93MPH (leaned it more) -9psi run
14.9 @94MPH (leaned a bit more, but still running rich) - 7psi run
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
DONT LEAN OUT (Obviously) esp since if you spike!! rather RICH than lean
im sure you all know that.
im sure you all know that.
pdhaudio said:
heheheh dont worry, I was leaning out a 9:1 A/F mixture. At those levels, the car is not driveable @ high rpms it will be so slow! jajajaj
I got it down to 12:1 on the last run @ 7psi.
On one run, right after my burn out I think the vacuum line that feeds the fmu came loose, so I basically ran the whole 1/4mile, completely LEAN, and I mean, LEAN, something like 16:1+.
It was soooo damn lean, that the temperatures didnt rise because there was not enough fuel to burn, and I did 15.1 anyway.
I got myself a benchmark I can use...my brothers' 3.2tl hehe. We ran on purpose the other night and he was dead even with me through the end of second gear when we stopped. This was before I descovered that the FPR kit was installed incorrectly. Now I have to do another run and see if it made any difference. I should have beaten my brother by a pretty good amount at ~9psi that I was running. Those tls are pretty quick up to the end of second gear, something like 7.5 sec 0-60, but that time is very slow for the MSP at ~9psi.
Hello turbo newbies!
First of all, what methods are you using to monitor vitals? IE, watching fuel injector pulse, timing, knock sensor activity, etc etc etc.
I don't see any of you mentioning any of this, rather guessing at problems.
We did a local's MSP tonight, and he thought the mod might have made a diff, but he was wondering where all the power was.
This was only at 9psi.
So without monitoring, it's all guess work as to what's really hapenning. I don't know what the ecu uses, obdii, can, iso, or a combo of the above, but maybe we can try to tap into the sensors and look for some indicators of what's happening.
BTW, his MSP is flashed.
First of all, what methods are you using to monitor vitals? IE, watching fuel injector pulse, timing, knock sensor activity, etc etc etc.
I don't see any of you mentioning any of this, rather guessing at problems.
We did a local's MSP tonight, and he thought the mod might have made a diff, but he was wondering where all the power was.
This was only at 9psi.
So without monitoring, it's all guess work as to what's really hapenning. I don't know what the ecu uses, obdii, can, iso, or a combo of the above, but maybe we can try to tap into the sensors and look for some indicators of what's happening.
BTW, his MSP is flashed.
This is some trial and error but mostly guessing yes. Im just trying out a few things here and there killing time until monday when its time for my appointment with my dealer. This way I know exactly what I have to tell them. Im gonna let them get into the detailed side of this.
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