Shifting properly helpsRyanJayG said:I
for the tranny the billet shift forks Beau is making will go a VERY long way in making our trannys hold up. and there are the EMCO gears and whatever Turf is trying to get worked out.. both are better than cryo'd gears.
Yeah Cryo DOES stress relieve the metal becaues of the thermal cycling, but that is also because it is partially heat treated during the operation. But the claims of more martensite and the like is very questionable for many reasons... one martensite doesn't exist EVER in aluminum, and second you'd be able to see that in a metallurgical sample, and to date I don't believe that's been fully proven from what research I've done. But obviously I could have overlooked something.cryo or heat treating metal is an attempt to line up the grains of the metal, which works quite well.. but forging is hammering the metal into have closer, tighter grains... this makes it much stronger. then add shot peening to them, this compacts the outer layer of metal (kinda like forging the outer layer) as well as removing any imperfections where cracks can start.
Yeah it'll be curious to see what starts breaking once gears and axles and diffs are all upgraded.if you do these two things internally to the tranny, add an LSD, either a welded 1 series MSP, or a quaife (better choice, but more expensive) and then get better axles and I dont think any power you can make in a protege can break it.
RyanJayG said:hey, your caps is stuck on
Any ratioFast lane said:TURFBURN WHAT RATIO ARE THE GEARS GOING TO BE AND WHAT GEARS WILL YOU BE MAKING, AND IF YOU HAVE IT; AROUND WHAT PRICE RANGE PER GEAR OR SET.
tHANKS,
MATT
It's something I've been working on for about a month. There are a few sources, EMCO can do them, you can get ones form Mazdamotorsports for about 1000 a gear (1st, 2nd, etc, which is actually two gears, but one "gear" for the tranny if you follow).Fast lane said:thanks, oh and is there a page dedicated to the gear sets, i would definetly get in on this i had no clue there was some one willing to make new forged gears..
what aluminum are you talking about? I wouldn't bother cry treating anyways. I think heat treating is much better, and it has been proven to create a martensite grain sturcture in steel.TurfBurn said:Yeah Cryo DOES stress relieve the metal becaues of the thermal cycling, but that is also because it is partially heat treated during the operation. But the claims of more martensite and the like is very questionable for many reasons... one martensite doesn't exist EVER in aluminum, and second you'd be able to see that in a metallurgical sample, and to date I don't believe that's been fully proven from what research I've done. But obviously I could have overlooked something.
Yes, that is what I made for the race truck. It held 1,000hp. The main caps and OPSR[oil pan support rail are all big hunk on 7075. It started out over 100lbs. When I was done I had it down to 45lbs.TurfBurn said:You mean redoing the entire upper oil pan out of high strength billet? that'd be a price piece to say the least.
I was just mentioning aluminum because we have enough parts that are.. pistons and head being big ones.RyanJayG said:what aluminum are you talking about? I wouldn't bother cry treating anyways. I think heat treating is much better, and it has been proven to create a martensite grain sturcture in steel.
we have $80,000 steel beams with a 99.95% perfection heat treated, and we do Rockwell and Brinell tests before and after.
as for the reason for such perfection we put such increadible stress on these steel beams causing them to resonate. I can show you video's if you want
Sign me up!MPNick said:Yes, that is what I made for the race truck. It held 1,000hp. The main caps and OPSR[oil pan support rail are all big hunk on 7075. It started out over 100lbs. When I was done I had it down to 45lbs.
Yes the cost was high. Over three weeks of machine time. The cost was just under $4,000.00. Anybody want one? With it the block will be able to withstand as much power as you dare.
Here is what I have seen. We used to break the pinion gears, halfshafts and the gears in the T56 tranns on very built Vipers. All were drag cars and just about every 15 to 20 passes one of parts would break.TurfBurn said:I've said it before and I'll say it again... Cryo doesn't do jack for strength. It does seem to have anecdotal evidence toward wear and distortion, but NOT for strength. So cryoing a tranny will do nothing. And we have NO proof among anybody on this car for sure of it being worthwhile.
Sure I could. Even if I didn't add any more boost, I could run more aggressive timing. That alone would boost my power.MPNick said:The million dollar question is can you make more peak WHP with C16 in your car? Just do not say yes right away, you may not be able to.
Then I won't show up unless I'm 100% sure things are good to go. If something happens and I have to rebuild half the motor the night before the dyno, I just won't come the next day.MPNick said:Get them babies working good and nice. Do not want to hear any reasons why things did not work out.
I'd say at least 270whp, hopefully 280.Got any guess on your output? 270whp, 280whp, 290whp?????
??Are we leading a lamb to the slaughter house?
Why not have two motors and swap them back and forth?Focus said:Yes rod and mains.
Fine, give me a number. How much with 93 and how much with C16.Kooldino said:Sure I could. Even if I didn't add any more boost, I could run more aggressive timing. That alone would boost my power.
I think you're stuck once you vote.MPNick said:Dana, how can I change my vote about this thread? I now like it more then before.
Lets not damage the engine. The day before or anyday after.Kooldino said:Then I won't show up unless I'm 100% sure things are good to go. If something happens and I have to rebuild half the motor the night before the dyno, I just won't come the next day.
I'd say at least 270whp, hopefully 280.
??
recount?Kooldino said:I think you're stuck once you vote.