Which Repairs On This List Are Most Urgent?

My understanding is that R12 is still available abeit expensive. HVAC techs recover it from older home A/C systems when they upgrade the customer to a new system.
My response was intended for Automotive use. While in some very, very, very, old home systems the R12 while the formula may in some circumstance be the same as offered for the auto industry there are not many that will or do use it for their classic vehicles. I do know that before auto dismantlers were required to drain AC system many capitalized on the R12 market when the manufacturing and supply was ending by pulling them from cars AC and selling it.. But as far as I remember not many used any refringent for their vehicle's except from another vehicle or marketed specifically for auto mobiles? In the last days of R12 buyers for automotive use would specifically ask about the manufacture and want to see the can.
I am not a historian of R12. :cool: I am sure all this can be found researching it on the internet?;) In my early days of Hot Rodding the AC systems came off most of my cars to lighten them down.
I really wont even work on old AC system using R12 anymore. It is a PIA to get parts. It's easier to do a conversion to R134.
I do still own a complete R12 tools gauges and even a few those old style "GRANADE" puncture can and handles of the day. Pleeeeeze don't make me post a picture of all the R12 sheeet I have makes me feel really fricken old . :LOL:
 
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"Freon" is a genericized trademark that takes the place of pretty much all HVAC refrigerants, no matter who actually makes it.

Sorta like Sawzall, ChannelLocks, Coke, or Jet Ski.
 
My understanding is that R12 is still available abeit expensive. HVAC techs recover it from older home A/C systems when they upgrade the customer to a new system.
I still have a few cans of "Industrial-12" on my shelf which was a direct replacement for R-12. I think it's simply propane without the stink added, though I can't swear by it. I used it in my Ranger back in the day, and it worked fantastic!
 
You didn't mention what trim level it is. Is it a Touring or Grand Touring.
Anyway even if it's a GT 20k seems a little excessive for a vehicle with 100k on the odo and
needing about a grand worth of repairs (more if done at the dealer).
I'd pass and keep looking.

Trying to get the thread back on track.
 
To OP:
This looks like a vehicle that has not been properly maintained.
I would walk away if I were you.
 
OP, everyone here is looking out for your benefit and trying to help with our collective knowledge and experience. I have to ask, did you do any homework/research on the VIN with a Mazda dealer or pull a Carfax to see if it has records of any service from anywhere? You have to do this to protect yourself and your wallet from a disaster. When it comes to used vehicles, trust nobody ESPECIALLY a dealership trying to sell it to you. It could have been rode hard and put away wet with no maintenance ever. Are you sure it is a one owner personal vehicle? Did the dealer tell you this? Please fill us in with more details.
 
I know the the world has gotten nuts since the Coof, but in Dec of 2020, I bought my one owner 2013 CX-5 Touring with 82,000 in *amazing* condition with a complete vehicle history down to changing the wiper blades for $9200.

OP, you didn't say if your car is going to come with both key fobs. If it only has one, those can be as much as $400 each. So if you decide to do this (personally I'd pass) but make sure that you do indeed get both fobs as well.
 
Hi Everyone,

So I just got a pre-purchase car inspection on a 1-Owner "2017 Mazda CX5 100k miles", and here's the list of issues with the car:
  • Front Brakes
  • Spark Plugs (recommended, not needed)
  • Replace Drive Belt and Tensioner Assembly (belt worn)
  • Brake Fluid Service (smells and is very discolored)
  • Cooling System Service
  • Transmission Service
  • AC System Evacuate and Recharge
  • Remove and Replace Engine Oil Pan (rusted) (slight leak)
Car is for sale at 20k. What do you think?

Thanks!

Brakes, all around. If the fronts really need it, the rears do, too. My rears wore out at 60k and the fronts were close behind.

Spark plugs are due every 75k miles. If they were done on time, they are not needed.

At 90k likes, my acessory belt looks new.

There is NO brake fluid change interval in the manual. I like to do it every 5 or 6 years. Miata got its done at 10 years.

Cooling system fluid change is at 120k or 10 years.

There is NO trans fluid change interval unless you tow.

The A/C may NEVER need service.

Rust on an oil pan rarely causes a leak. A bad gasket or a bad drain plug will.

Are you SURE this was a trustworthy shop?
 
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