Where to buy rebuilt rear calipers? Did a search already.

[RMW Guy]

It seems that my rears are seized or at least starting to seize.

I see in some of the threads prices are listed at around $40. I have not been able to find any that cheap. Loaded ones on EBAY are over $100.00. I don't think a rebuild will solve the problem given the condition.

Thanks for the help.

 

[MaxPower]

rockauto.com. The rears are more expensive than $40 because they are more complicated than the front calipers.

 

[RMW Guy]

Wow, that's a great site!!! They will be getting some $$$ from me very soon.

Thanks.

 

[SocialStealth]

I bought mine from autopartswarehouse.com

they usually have like 15% discounts floating around. I got my core return $$ within a month, which was good.

 

[Matt V]

How do you know that yours are starting to fail? I'd like to hear if your problems match mine, if so then I need to replace my rear calipers too.

 

[RMW Guy]

Matt-The parking brake has been adjusted at the handle to the stop and it works but barely. The pads are not retracting enough after applying the foot brake so they rub on the rotor more than normal.

I tried moving the pistons with the Allen key adjustment but the gear doesn't move. I figure that a rebuild won't work because of the corrosion inside the piston bore. I'd rather replace them and not waste the time/effort of a rebuild.

 

[slavrenz]

Wow, that's a great site!!! They will be getting some $$$ from me very soon.

Thanks.

The only thing I don't like about them is they're sort of careless about which parts they put under which vehicles. A lot of parts that are for the P5 are only listed under the sedans, and sometimes they put multiple versions of the same part on their website, when in fact there should only be one.

I love RockAuto, but as always when you're shopping online, caveat emptor.

 

[slavrenz]

I bought mine from autopartswarehouse.com

they usually have like 15% discounts floating around. I got my core return $$ within a month, which was good.

I've had bad experiences with this website. I've ordered parts after asking the staff repeatedly if they are compatible with the Protege, only to find out that they're for some other vehicle entirely.

With RockAuto, I bet you'd have that core return $$$ back in 2 weeks or less.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/Users/Groves/AppData/Local/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> I ended up buying mine from Pep Boys...it was $63 after core. But it was defective and wouldn't hold fluid pressure, so I went to Autozone and ended up paying more like $80. Both calipers were unloaded, and honestly, buying a loaded caliper isn't worth it in my opinion. Just a word to the wise, the one I bought at Pep Boys was the only one in their regional inventory, and there were only 3 of the 8 autozones in my area that had it in stock. Call around and see what you can find...after shipping, getting it local may actually be a better deal.


Read about my experience here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123774223

 

[Lewis7789]

I've replaced both my rear calipers on different occasions and Advanced Auto Parts had one in stock and NAPA had another one in stock and they were both local. Nothing beats picking up a part locally and not having to wait for shipping. And honestly, I prefer to just buy loaded calipers. Because either the E-brake bracket bolt is seized or the caliper swing arm is seized and won't come off. That's what happened to me. So I needed loaded calipers.

 

[MP5_Joe]

NAPA is where I got all 4 of mine. Both my rears were seized to f*ck and my passenger side front was starting to seize. So I did all 4 pads rotors and calipers. Should have painted them with some silver paint or somethin tho cuz the surface rust forms quick!

 

[RockerPro5]

I hope this isn't too off topic, but is it true that the rear caliper's are more likely to seize when having the hand brake applied for long periods of time, especially in winter after all the salt and crud get in there?

I try to avoid using the hand brake when parked on level ground.

Also, for those of you that have dealt with seized rear calipers, do you use the hand brake often? How often do you lube the caliper slider pins? (On the subject of slider pins, what's the best way to go about lubing them?)

 

[RMW Guy]

I have a 5 speed and I use my handbrake every time I park. I have a feeling tha the PO of my car didn't do much to maintain it. The car came from northern Michigan so snow and salt surely got everywhere. The records did not come with the car.


Yes, based on threads posted that the rears DO seize more frequently than the fronts.

When I took my calipers off last weekend I used a piece of emory cloth to clean the slider pin and used Amsoil high temp bearing grease on the pin.

They work better but I will end up rebuilding them as it will bug me until I do it.

A chirp, chirp started last week when starting so I am following up on that instead.

 

[NateTheGreat]

The pin that can't be removed without first removing the caliper seized to my rear passenger caliper, so this appears to be a fairly common problem. I ended up getting a replacement caliper from Advance Auto, though it was without the bracket ("unloaded"?). I actually had to cut through the old seized pin with a hacksaw in the small space between the caliper and bracket, then I was able to unscrew the sawed-off pin-stub from the bracket with a beefy pair of pliers and install everything using new caliper, new pins, and old bracket.

Two weeks later, the new caliper (Cardone brand, I believe) has already rusted. I'll clean it and paint it black when I get a chance, but I figured this rapid rusting was worth mentioning since my other OEM calipers appear to be fine.

 

[crazylikeafox11]

rockauto.com. The rears are more expensive than $40 because they are more complicated than the front calipers.

Thanks for the website. I need new struts and those are actually super reasonably priced (moreso than at other places I looked at).

 

[RMW Guy]

I bought 2 new rear calipers, pads, and rotors along with some brake cleaner and brake fluid at my local Autozone. The total was $243.00.
The calipers were $79.00 with a $42.00 core charge.

With my wife helping me bleed the system I had the job completed in about 4 hours, start to finish.


I decided late Friday night to do it so I needed the parts NOW instead of orcering online.

 

[sethro_GT]

My rears were replaced shortly before I bought it last year by a tire shop and they are rusted up but work fine. I think the OEM electro plating is sand blasted off when they reman them so they rust in no time.