I know it's a stupid question but I am putting a MSP turbo kit on my MP3 and I know where the oil and coolant lines go but is there any vacuum lines to hook up and where to? I don't want to get the thing ready to put on and not know where to connect the lines if there is any.
where does the vacuum line from wastegate go
- Thread starter jtmp3
- Start date
CasopoliS said:
no your right....the vac line from your wastegate gets teed off at the BPV line and than ran up off into the mani in the stock setup...if you trace the line you'll find all your bends and tees they put into it....if your putting a turbo kit into your car, i would re-route the lines (in my opinion) on my set up i ran 3 direct lines...1 - from my HKS BOV teed off into the brake boost line coming from the fire wall, 2 - from the BPV into the brake line also with another tee, 3 - a direct straight line from the wastegate to the mani...i was reading up and ran couple pressure test that this gave us the most officiant vac pressure. If ya need measurements i'll be glad to help...
So I have the boost gauge teed of a line on top of the manifold and the BOV to the same line. I do not have a BPV ( maf relocated). I also have a spare port on the manifold that someone said was for the cruise control that I don't have. It has a nipple on it, would the wastegate actuator run to that? I don't have the turbo on yet, I am in the process.
Yeah that should work. Pretty much anywhere you can get a vacuum signal will work besides a couple sources that are behind a check valve. The sources not to use would be: 1) the VTCS/VICS actuator sources, and 2) if you tapped your brake booster line in the wrong place(there is a hidden check valve inline with that hose).
jtmp3 said:
yeah i'll get some pics of my bay and each line im talking about...as peepsalot said you gotta watch out for the valve in the brake boost line... you have to snip to the left of that check valve in order for proper vac pressure (dont ask me why, i just did what i read and didnt feel like running an experiment to find out why lol)
A check valve is a valve that allows air to flow only one way. Your brake booster relies on the power of the vacuum to help you apply your brakes. Positive pressure is not good for your brake booster. That is why the check valve is there, it allows air to flow away from the brake booster(creating vacuum), but does not allow it to go the other way(losing vacuum, or creating boost). If your wastegate source was placed after a check valve set in this direction, then your wastegate would never see positive pressure(boost), and your turbo would create more and more boost until your engine popped(but hopefully you would hit fuel cut first which somewhat prevents such popping).
Heres a couple snap shots i took tonight just to give ya an idea of what was going on under the hood, the tees that tapped into the brake line our measured as followed 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/16....keep in mind that if one wanted to attempt this i cannot be held responsible for any "boo boos" or "uh ohs"....some of this here is still in the works so bear w/ me in some of the pics
Pic 1 - Whole set-up
Pic 2 - 3 dedicated vacuum lines ran (BOV, BPV, Wastegate)
Pic 3 - Check Valve (Snip to the left of this, NOT the right)
Pic 4 - Location of the Brake Boost line
Pic 1 - Whole set-up
Pic 2 - 3 dedicated vacuum lines ran (BOV, BPV, Wastegate)
Pic 3 - Check Valve (Snip to the left of this, NOT the right)
Pic 4 - Location of the Brake Boost line
Attachments
Last edited:
Okay this weekend is the weekend anyone know what tools and sizes I will need so I can get what I don't have before saturday.This is my only car and have to work monday. You know what tools and sizes to take off manifold, oil pressure sending unit, factory dp, EGR, blah blah, I think I might need a wobble to get the bottom manifold bolts right? please help.
manifold bolts are 12mm. Torque on them is pretty low. Something like 12-15lbs I think. Egr is a large nut and I can't think what size that is. 1" maybe. Remove the bolts from the downpipe/mid and the get the O2's off. removing the radiator fans will give you room to pull the whole manifold and downpipe up and out of the car.
New Threads
-
After update CarPlay/AndroidAuto not active with "new" USB
- Started by Steve25
- Replies: 0
-
Public Service Announcement: Check Your Ball Joints
- Started by Mr5ive
- Replies: 0
-
