When the engine goes..

[Noel]

Just wondering...

Looking at members blown engine picks...I see that its the block that is cracked or has a hole in it.

Is this because the block itself is weak?

Is this because the rods couldnt hold?

If having forged internals, will this still happen?



I dont want to spend the money on internals if the block still cant hold anything.


Thanks.

 

[Outlawstar98]

The rods like to snap off and fly though to block.

 

[jwehrheim]

I bought a car with a blown motor. The weak link are the rods and oiling system. I a getting my pump within tolerance and forged rods.

 

[ls six]

And theres the honda like rod ratio.

It's not a huge issue untill you're making serious power or trying to rev it out way past redline but if your going forged internals look into raising the pin bore and using longer rods.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

And theres the honda like rod ratio.

It's not a huge issue untill you're making serious power or trying to rev it out way past redline but if your going forged internals look into raising the pin bore and using longer rods.

lol from what i learned is the FS-DE is essentially a stroked 1.8L. hence the horrible rod/stroke ratio. but it can be helped like you said

FS-DE is about 1.47:1 (135mm rod length/92mm stroke) i think the stock length is around 135mm, correct me if i'm wrong.

"Most engine builders shoot for a ratio between 1.5:1 and 1.8:1 on a street motor, with 1.75:1 considered ideal, regardless of application."

"Generally, a lower ratio means a high rod angle, creating greater potential for accelerated wear to cylinder walls, pistons and rings. A low enough ratio, due to the severity of its rod angle, can drive a piston right into the cylinder wall."

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0506_ht_rod_stroke_ratio/index.html

 

[JDM Sam]

You're not going to be revving this engine out to 8000 or higher because it's under square.

 

[orng1]

The block is fine, its the rods that are as thin as my pinky and fragile as glass it seems.

 

[ls six]

lol from what i learned is the FS-DE is essentially a stroked 1.8L. hence the horrible rod/stroke ratio

Whats sad is the 1.8L uses a 1/2" lower deck so it still has a crappy R/R, you can use a 1.8 crank or possibly a BP 1.8 crank but loosing 200cc's is a difficult proposition.

FS-DE is about 1.47:1 (135mm rod length/92mm stroke) i think the stock length is around 135mm, correct me if i'm wrong.

That all seems right, I dont have the #'s here though.

You're not going to be revving this engine out to 8000 or higher because it's under square.

No but you will be boosting it significantly. The r/r determines what fraction of the cranks torque will be transfered to the block as side load and it dosnt care where that torque comes from.

 

[JDM Sam]

Aftermarket forged standard length rods are fine when boosting heavily. I've boosted over 20 psi on a GT3071R with Pauter E4340 chromemoly forged steel rods. If you run the long runs you will be pushing the wrist pin further up in the piston and will compromise the oil ring land. I had a set of long rods and +2mm stroker pistons made for the K1 long rods a while ago and that is exactly what happened with the wrist pin occupying space in the oil ring land.

Tuning for the longer dwell time is another issue when you go long rod/stroker setup.

 

[Alamo1]

I"m kinda new to this built engine business but I am going to boost my car to a hopeful 300whp. I'm just starting to teardown a junkyard motor and have a couple questions along these same lines....

1) should I wait till the block is ready for the machine shop to buy pistons?
2) I can have any turbo I desire, so should I go for keeping some low end and boost small psi with 9:1 or go with a larger boost setup and run 8.5:1?
3) Where can I go and find part numbers for rods and pistons so I can have a family member with some race connections price them out for me?

I plan on having this be mainly a street driver, maybe getting into some amateur autocrossing...

I've read some and concensus seems to be the pauter/arias combo but I wonder if anyone else has got some other oppinions...

 

[43975]

If your planning autocross. the GT28RS might be as big of a turbo you'll want, other wise you won't have enough time to spool it and make power before your off it and breaking again. The GT28RS is a nice turbo for the MSP and still makes great power down low

 

[Metallic36]

I'll second the GT28RS.. you will DEFINITELY feel a difference over stock with it. For me, it gives me all the boost I want, I still scare myself sometimes LOL. I would go ahead and get the pistons, take your block to the shop and have them look at it, see what they say about overboring, if it's necessary or not, if you want it done or not, then base your piston purchase on that. I have the K1 rods and CP pistons.. just be careful with the Arias.. heard that they cause some oil jet issues.

 

[m_V_p651]

has anyone try forged rods but with stock pistons? becuase it seems like the only thing really failing is the rods. but would it cost too much to have them fitted into the forged rods that getting new pistons is just about the same price?

 

[Alamo1]

I'll second the GT28RS.. you will DEFINITELY feel a difference over stock with it. For me, it gives me all the boost I want, I still scare myself sometimes LOL. I would go ahead and get the pistons, take your block to the shop and have them look at it, see what they say about overboring, if it's necessary or not, if you want it done or not, then base your piston purchase on that. I have the K1 rods and CP pistons.. just be careful with the Arias.. heard that they cause some oil jet issues.

Did you mean get the rods? And then base pistons on the machinist?

I'm still trying to figure part numbers so I can shop around... Working for a turbo shop does have it's advantages... (sssh)