maxchao,
Hey man it's not a problem, ask away. The mount is really not all that hard to do. There is basicly only three nuts to worry about. Now I would mention that I do not have the stock intake in the way, so that might make it a lil more work, but not by much.
bolts = are long and have threads
nuts = are like hexagonal doughnuts
remove mount
1.) place floor jack under oil pan and jack it up to hold the motor. Make sure
to put a piece of wood on the jack as not to damage the oil pan.
2.) remove the two nuts holding the mount to the chassis
3.) remove the nut holding the bolt through the mount. This is the bolt that connects the mount to the motor
4.) remove bolt going through mount
5.) remove mount
I would mention having a breaker bar will help most likely.
The stock mount has the two fixed bolts that stick out in the bottom for the two nuts. In the SLS provided mount these bolts are not fixed. So if you have any resistance when putting the bolts on, they will spin. It is not easy to get a wrench or socket on the top of the bolts and to keep them their! This is why I have had the bolts welded to the mount, to make it more like stock or AWR. So yes, with the bolts that go through the metal mount (not the part that connects with the engine) you can remove the mount.
I am not sure what the problem is with SLS compared to AWR or SU, but they are all fine units. AWR is nice because you do not have have anything to welded, but I prefer the SLS because of less vibration.
Remember, the idea is to take the slop out the front mount so the engine does not move as far. When you do this you lose isolation from the engine vibration. So it's a balance on how much comfort you are willing to give up for responsiness. AWR has stiff materials used and thus make your car vibrate alot during idle (or so I have read). SLS barely vibrates at idle, but I get better response. I am building my car for everyday and occasional autoX. If your going all track, why not get the AWR? You could do the rear mount, but it is a pain to change! Not only that, but with a good front mount, the engine movement is greatly reduced. If you put a rear mount on, it would give it marginal improvements and increase vibration.
Labor for getting the welding done will depend on the shop and their prices.
I was charged $34 for the job (boy do I wish I had a welder, I could have done it myself).
As for the stock mount, it's all about engineering meets marketing. Everyone makes there mount out of rubber to help with vibration. They can not make it solid, because it probably would vibrate way too much for there target buyers. A good example of this is the stock intake. They have resonators on them to quiet them down. Tuners like performance and sound out of there engines which is against what most regular econo sedan buyers want (quiet). So we open it up, and thus make it louder.
The problem with the stock mount is not the design of the mount itself but the rubber pattern inside. After awhile the rubber will break down (normal), and with the design that connects the center to the outer rubber part will rip/break (thin). Both my passenger and front mount where ripped at 100K miles.
I fully trust in the front mount from SLS, it just needs the bolts welded to make install way easier for you. $68+34+shipping.
I am still not sure about the passenger side mount. The original plate that comes with it broke. They have sent me a replacement steel piece. The only design thing, I am not sure of is the non use of the side brace. It's like a bigger version of the front mount with a plate that is held by a bolt. The engine bolts to the plate. But unlike the stock mount, there is no brace to spread the load. I have not made up my mind whether to have a piece welded to the top, so I can use the brace, or not. I figured out now, that it should help when I am cornering and keep the engine from moving side to side. Of course SLS does not have a tranny mount yet, so I might just go with inserts for the sides. As of now, the side SLS mount is not installed yet. Maybe this weekend?
Of note, when my engine was out the car, the rear mount was good!
As for tire inflation, are you checking after you took the car out or after it has been sitting for awhile? The cold temps I would suggest 32-36 psi. I run 36psi for daily for gas mileage. For autoXing I use 32 psi.
Remember, that when you start driving your car, the temperature of the tires go up and heats the air. This will rise the psi in the tires, thus why I asked you the question above.
I would imagine that the reduced engine movement would also reduce the tranny movement helping with clutch engagement. Though I would think a worn out clutch would cause chatter because it is having problems getting a grip on top of tranny movement.
Magus
Hey man it's not a problem, ask away. The mount is really not all that hard to do. There is basicly only three nuts to worry about. Now I would mention that I do not have the stock intake in the way, so that might make it a lil more work, but not by much.
bolts = are long and have threads
nuts = are like hexagonal doughnuts
remove mount
1.) place floor jack under oil pan and jack it up to hold the motor. Make sure
to put a piece of wood on the jack as not to damage the oil pan.
2.) remove the two nuts holding the mount to the chassis
3.) remove the nut holding the bolt through the mount. This is the bolt that connects the mount to the motor
4.) remove bolt going through mount
5.) remove mount
I would mention having a breaker bar will help most likely.
The stock mount has the two fixed bolts that stick out in the bottom for the two nuts. In the SLS provided mount these bolts are not fixed. So if you have any resistance when putting the bolts on, they will spin. It is not easy to get a wrench or socket on the top of the bolts and to keep them their! This is why I have had the bolts welded to the mount, to make it more like stock or AWR. So yes, with the bolts that go through the metal mount (not the part that connects with the engine) you can remove the mount.
I am not sure what the problem is with SLS compared to AWR or SU, but they are all fine units. AWR is nice because you do not have have anything to welded, but I prefer the SLS because of less vibration.
Remember, the idea is to take the slop out the front mount so the engine does not move as far. When you do this you lose isolation from the engine vibration. So it's a balance on how much comfort you are willing to give up for responsiness. AWR has stiff materials used and thus make your car vibrate alot during idle (or so I have read). SLS barely vibrates at idle, but I get better response. I am building my car for everyday and occasional autoX. If your going all track, why not get the AWR? You could do the rear mount, but it is a pain to change! Not only that, but with a good front mount, the engine movement is greatly reduced. If you put a rear mount on, it would give it marginal improvements and increase vibration.
Labor for getting the welding done will depend on the shop and their prices.
I was charged $34 for the job (boy do I wish I had a welder, I could have done it myself).
As for the stock mount, it's all about engineering meets marketing. Everyone makes there mount out of rubber to help with vibration. They can not make it solid, because it probably would vibrate way too much for there target buyers. A good example of this is the stock intake. They have resonators on them to quiet them down. Tuners like performance and sound out of there engines which is against what most regular econo sedan buyers want (quiet). So we open it up, and thus make it louder.
The problem with the stock mount is not the design of the mount itself but the rubber pattern inside. After awhile the rubber will break down (normal), and with the design that connects the center to the outer rubber part will rip/break (thin). Both my passenger and front mount where ripped at 100K miles.
I fully trust in the front mount from SLS, it just needs the bolts welded to make install way easier for you. $68+34+shipping.
I am still not sure about the passenger side mount. The original plate that comes with it broke. They have sent me a replacement steel piece. The only design thing, I am not sure of is the non use of the side brace. It's like a bigger version of the front mount with a plate that is held by a bolt. The engine bolts to the plate. But unlike the stock mount, there is no brace to spread the load. I have not made up my mind whether to have a piece welded to the top, so I can use the brace, or not. I figured out now, that it should help when I am cornering and keep the engine from moving side to side. Of course SLS does not have a tranny mount yet, so I might just go with inserts for the sides. As of now, the side SLS mount is not installed yet. Maybe this weekend?
Of note, when my engine was out the car, the rear mount was good!
As for tire inflation, are you checking after you took the car out or after it has been sitting for awhile? The cold temps I would suggest 32-36 psi. I run 36psi for daily for gas mileage. For autoXing I use 32 psi.
Remember, that when you start driving your car, the temperature of the tires go up and heats the air. This will rise the psi in the tires, thus why I asked you the question above.
I would imagine that the reduced engine movement would also reduce the tranny movement helping with clutch engagement. Though I would think a worn out clutch would cause chatter because it is having problems getting a grip on top of tranny movement.
Magus
Last edited:
